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Old 17th August 2008, 05:27 PM   #1641
khaho is offline khaho  Finland
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It is the same PS as in F4, there is even the layout of boards in F4 manual.
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Old 17th August 2008, 06:13 PM   #1642
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Quote:
Originally posted by khaho
the layout of boards in F4 manual.
Pretty neat too with the steering wheel pads.
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Old 18th August 2008, 04:32 AM   #1643
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The F5 performance is really impressive. Very simple circuit and easy to build. I like the mid to high response of the amplifier, it's warm and gives more detail compare to my other amplifiers. As what DUC985 mentioned, absolutely dead quite even you put your ears close the speaker like a headphone, you will not hear any hum and turn on thumb.

Many, many thanks to Nelson for sharing this design to DIY community.

Here's a picture of my DIY F5 on Plexiglass. I don't have the budget to buy an aluminum for front and back panel yet, so I decided to use a plexiglass for the meantime. The transformer is Piltron 300VA 18 - 0V dual. To get the maximum performance, I'm planning to replace it with 400VA 20 - 0V dual as what Jack used on his amp. The capacitors used were 33,000 uF each, which is 66,000 uF in total per rail. I bought the heatsink from Steve at Apex Jr.

Just build it and hear it. You won't regret it.
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Old 18th August 2008, 04:34 AM   #1644
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Here's another picture inside...


I tried to make the picture bigger but it won't allow me. I think it's good enough.
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Old 18th August 2008, 04:38 AM   #1645
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Another view...
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Old 18th August 2008, 12:13 PM   #1646
Tea-Bag is offline Tea-Bag  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by fredlock
Another view...

very cool. Black cube. Looks like my F2. I mounted the power supply from the top.

I tried using a sheet of plexi for a cross-over earlier this year, must of ordered the wrong grade or something, as whenever I drilled it, it cracked bad. I had some older stuff I used a few years back that had no such trouble.

Mike
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Old 18th August 2008, 01:41 PM   #1647
udailey is offline udailey  United States
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I have some acrylic. It drills pretty nicely. Love using that stuff for placing RCAs that dont have plastic insulating washers.

Great mids and highs
So what about the bass? Middle of the road, lacking, non-existent? Or do you think its the smaller supply?
Uriah
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Old 18th August 2008, 01:59 PM   #1648
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Quote:
Originally posted by udailey
I have some acrylic. It drills pretty nicely. Love using that stuff for placing RCAs that dont have plastic insulating washers.


Uriah

Uriah,
Do you know what grade of acrylic to order?
I was thinking an see-through top to show some blue LED glow.
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Old 18th August 2008, 02:39 PM   #1649
udailey is offline udailey  United States
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Mit,
Thanks for asking. I went to get the leftovers to see what the sticker on them said in regards to your question.
Its actually Lexan. Its XL10 and I dont know if this makes any difference, but it is UL972-Burglary resistant. Maybe whatever they do to make it burglary resistant also makes it not chip or crack when I drill into it. Since I just use it for the back panel its only about 3/16" thick.

I only use it for the back of my amp where the RCA connectors go. I drill a hole in the wood that is bigger than the back of the connector. Then I drill into the lexan. Screw the RCA together on the Lexan and then push RCA connectors into the holes in the wood and screw the Lexan into the wood. Its not much extra work at all and you can put whatever color paper/plastic you want on the back of the Lexan to have a nicer looking panel. I dont do any leds so I wouldnt know the Lexans performance with this or how to polish the edges to get that nice glow. I cut the lexan with regular drill bits and a small tooth hand saw.

I got the Lexan at Lowes.
Uriah
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Old 18th August 2008, 03:50 PM   #1650
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Lexan is the trade name for polycarbonate.
Very durable and crack resistant.

Perspex is a trade name for acrylic.
Brittle and easily cracks at stress raisers.

Both scratch easily.
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