F5 power amplifier

F5 Case

Hi guys, has anyone bought one of these cases from Johnny at DIYClub (Hong Kong) ? I am looking at building a stereo bridged F5 (ie. four amps in one case), and I think this dude might be big enough. The heat sinks are aluminum and are 380 mm x 150 mm x 55 mm deep and have ~ 45 fins per side. Just scaling by fin area from a Conrad MF35-151.5 spec., each side should be good for ~ 1.2 degrees C / watt. It has a 1/2 thick milled front face also.

It is a little steep at $ 411.00, but considering the quality of the caseand the size of these sinks, it might be worth it.

See: http://diyclub.biz/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_249_154_138&products_id=587
 
Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
GRollins said:
It'll give a number of people here hives to hear me say this, but I've used old caps on a number of occasions and had no problems. If they poop out on you, it'll smell bad and you'll have to buy new ones, but as long as you're not standing on top of them when they vent, you'll live to see another day.
Moral of the story? If they've been sitting for a long time, apply voltage slowly, and at the end of several feet of wire.

Grey

Thanks for the reply. Tomorrow I will try slowly reforming each,
starting with a volt (1) via a variac>transformer>bridge and checking for current leakage and increasing voltage as the leakage drops down.
 
Re: F5 Case Correction

dcbingaman said:
Oooooppppss....I slipped a digit in my post ..... I meant 0.12 degrees C / watt. 1.2 degrees per watt would probably glow in the dark this much bias current !!!!

Oops - my mistake too. I misread the dimensions on the site. I'm using smaller 'sinks, to dissipate lots more power and they're working just fine. I don't think they'll be 0.12 C/W, but they should do the trick for the F5.

-j
 
Re: F5 Case

dcbingaman said:
Hi guys, has anyone bought one of these cases from Johnny at DIYClub (Hong Kong) ? I am looking at building a stereo bridged F5 (ie. four amps in one case), and I think this dude might be big enough. The heat sinks are aluminum and are 380 mm x 150 mm x 55 mm deep and have ~ 45 fins per side. Just scaling by fin area from a Conrad MF35-151.5 spec., each side should be good for ~ 1.2 degrees C / watt. It has a 1/2 thick milled front face also.

It is a little steep at $ 411.00, but considering the quality of the caseand the size of these sinks, it might be worth it.

See: http://diyclub.biz/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_249_154_138&products_id=587


It should work. Those are some serious heat sinks! I bought a R-core transformer from him a couple of years ago and was happy. It arrived as promised and described.

-David
 
Old capacitors

In my toob building days I bought a bunch of old photoflash caps at a surplus store for a Brian Clark designed SP-6B clone preamp. Although they were rated at 600V, when I applied 400 VDC to them from a 5AR4 rectifier toob, a couple of them went off like shotgun shells......GRollins is right, use several feet of wire and form them slowly with a Variac. At 50V they won't go off as spectacularly as a photoflash, but they will stink to high heaven and **** off your spouse.
 
Official Court Jester
Joined 2003
Paid Member
ichiban said:


Thanks for the reply. Tomorrow I will try slowly reforming each,
starting with a volt (1) via a variac>transformer>bridge and checking for current leakage and increasing voltage as the leakage drops down.


don't bother ;

put 100k/1W in series with each , and crank full voltage
leave them like that for 6-10 hours , power off .

drain them with any low ohm WW resistor

remove 100K's

crank full voltage
 
Originally posted by dcbingaman
Hi guys, has anyone bought one of these cases from Johnny at DIYClub (Hong Kong) ? I am looking at building a stereo bridged F5 (ie. four amps in one case), and I think this dude might be big enough. The heat sinks are aluminum and are 380 mm x 150 mm x 55 mm deep and have ~ 45 fins per side. Just scaling by fin area from a Conrad MF35-151.5 spec., each side should be good for ~ 1.2 degrees C / watt. It has a 1/2 thick milled front face also.

It is a little steep at $ 411.00, but considering the quality of the caseand the size of these sinks, it might be worth it.

See: http://diyclub.biz/catalog/product_...products_id=587

As far as the aluminum cases go there is a guy by the name of Chan Lawrence that sells on Ebay as biglawhk (lawrencechanbig@msn.com) that has similar products as DIYCLUB for less money. They appear to be some kind of surplus cases and he has a few dozen different variations. The down side is that in order to get them at a decent price they ship regular post instead of airmail. I have a large blk case with heatsinks enroute via a "slow boat from China" that will hopefully be here in the next 30days or so. I plan on posting some pictures if it turns out to be a viable option for the DIY crowd in the future.

Regards, Daniel.
 
Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Re: Old capacitors

dcbingaman said:
.....for a Brian Clark designed SP-6B clone preamp....

I've also built a B.Clark preamp, the 4TuBe DynaPAS version altho I did purchase his 6 tube and cross over manuals. Lately I've gone back to the Vorhis Last Pass but using Brians master regulator and buffer regs.
___________________________________________________
Originally posted by Zen Mod
don't bother ;
put 100k/1W in series with each , and crank full voltage ....

Originally posted by Bill Fuss
From an old guy that has done it many times, ZM is right on the money. Full voltage and limited current is the correct way. You can also use the 25W light bulb trick too. Bill

Thanks Zen Mod & Bill.

Ichiban
Old tube :hot: tinker'r

ps: Sorry for all the OT :clown:
 
Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Power output if F5 bridge/balanced

:scratch2: Do I have this right, :confused: if the F5 is bridged/balanced the output power will go up x4, :flame: to be 100w in class A / 200w in class AB ? :firefite:

I'm hoping that each Conrad 350x151.5 heat sink {.21c/w * 1.4 = .294 C/W},
with two amps per sink :bigeyes: will squeak by, without a fan.

What say ye?
 
amp-guy said:
Has anyone been able to find fairchild mosfets?. no one seems to stock them and they want you to order 450 or more .
Arrow shows that they will sell in 30 quantity with a three week lead time.
why does everything we choose to use in our gear turn into pure unobtanium?.


Why not using IR Mosfets for now and when Faichilds become available again, replace them. Chances are, you won't need to replace them at all, as they work perfectly fine in my amp ;)
 
Member
Joined 2006
Paid Member
amp-guy said:
Has anyone been able to find fairchild mosfets?. no one seems to stock them and they want you to order 450 or more .
Arrow shows that they will sell in 30 quantity with a three week lead time.
why does everything we choose to use in our gear turn into pure unobtanium?.


Mouser
512-FQA19N20C (N-channel)
512-FQA12P20 (P-Channel)

All are on backorder right now. Must be all the amp's were building :rofl:

Course, I order my discrete parts from tech-diy.com -