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Old 19th April 2012, 11:44 AM   #12221
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Checking that you have wired up the mains plug correctly, wired up the transformer correctly, wired up the PSU safely, wired up the amplifier safely, assembled the amplifier safely.

Go and read some, or many, of the posts describing the bulb tester operation and use.
Question:
How can you be a Member here for 30months and not have bumped into "mains bulb tester"?


BTW,
I have never blown up or damaged or smoked, any equipment whether wired up wrong or not, that was powered via the bulb tester.
That is not the same as saying one can never damage equipment via the bulb tester. But I am fairly sure that all wiring and assembly faults in power amplifiers can be detected without damage if the bulb tester is used and a voltmeter is then used to check all operating voltages, before direct power ON.
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Last edited by AndrewT; 19th April 2012 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 19th April 2012, 04:23 PM   #12222
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Default the same

Quote:
Originally Posted by studiostevus View Post
Thanks for all your advice.

What still confuses me is the bulb tester. I know it functions as a current limiter. But what exactly am i testing with it?
And what should i be looking at when i power up with the tester (aside from smoke, fire & explosions) ?
they want to confirm make sure max current give out to load(will be speaker) with increase temp ...check what happend with all parts,V,I,dirtor..But remmember that ohm of bulb is not 8ohm.Dont mind it try this and you will get experience.( R5,R7,R8,R6,R1,R2 ,R11,R12) better bigger and you wont care about change value by temp.
Do everrything if u want.
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Old 19th April 2012, 04:43 PM   #12223
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Better they need make amp with 1 device (charactic of this device must be hight quality no have dirtotion,V-I,Temp ,high gain ..stability all time) .
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Old 19th April 2012, 07:59 PM   #12224
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Ok guys. I have started and biased the amp! No smoke no explosions.

Unfortunately the front and back panel are at the cnc mill, so everytime i walk past the amp, the bias moves a couple of mV due to temp variations... Does it make sense to already start listening to it? Or will that be a waste of time?
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Old 19th April 2012, 08:06 PM   #12225
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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if you made it (biasing procedure) with lid on while cooking , then everything is OK
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Old 19th April 2012, 08:13 PM   #12226
MaHo is offline MaHo  Slovakia
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Default bias setting problem

Hello

I build F5 regular without changes, I set bias with no problem to aprox 540mV and offset 5mV, I run amplifier with speaker for cca 40h no problem sound was amazing, temperature was OK no problem to hold my hands on heatsink for log time. Yesterday when I power on amp /after resting more then 16 hours and cooling to room temperature/ fuse blou out. I check everything, found nothing wrong use bulb tester ans bulb light on and dont turn off,

I try reset bias tur pots to 0 ohm and no problem amp run OK no problem with fuse I reset bias recheck and everythig run OK, but after turning off and cooling to room temperature I try to power ON with bulb tester and ligh is still on

this is my first project. I think there should by problem with termistor, which after cooling down change bias and put to much curent thrue source resistor. I am not sure.

My knowledge is very limited
thanks a lot for your help

Martin
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Old 19th April 2012, 08:16 PM   #12227
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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it's likely just low fuse value

do you have 10R NTC inline with mains ?
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Old 19th April 2012, 08:48 PM   #12228
MaHo is offline MaHo  Slovakia
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yes NTC in mains i have
fuse is 1.25A slow blow
first week was no problem with powering on

Now when I disconect amp from PSU powerig on is no problem PSU give +/-24.4V

thanks
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Old 19th April 2012, 08:59 PM   #12229
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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VA of xformer and filter capacitance ?

in an case - double that fuse
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Old 19th April 2012, 09:30 PM   #12230
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I am experiencing the same, a 2A fuse does the trick.

With the bulb tester and 2 channels connected, I see the PSU struggling to get above ~12.5VDC. Without bulb there is no problem and everything is working fine. Also cold but only with one channel there is no problem. Just the combination of cold, 2 channels, and lightbulb are tricky...

Is it because when cold more current is passed?

--- 400VA, 94000uF per rail

Last edited by studiostevus; 19th April 2012 at 09:50 PM.
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