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#11671 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
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Which can be found here - An illustrated guide to building an F5
As I say in the introduction, this is not the only way of doing it, merely the way I did it. (Heck, if I were to make another I would do it a bit differently! But that is the nature of DIY...)
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Pass Labs Pearl Phono -- Pass B1 Preamp -- Pass F5 amplifier -- Pass Labs Pearl 2 |
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#11672 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes threads are big but if you want to learn something...that is good news.
This is not a kit building site ...thank god ! Your effort is very welcome 6L6 and appreciated, after the amp has been discussed here in detail. ...and Bksabath makes a very relevant point....$20 gets you a very easy to view version of the thread !!! DIY is not like taking a pill...it's the enjoyment of the journey...and there is some great company here for that.
Last edited by CeeVee; 18th January 2012 at 04:05 PM. |
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#11673 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: West Coast
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#11674 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
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It's in the middle of my build guide. It looks like this -
From Zen Mod: dial both pots to 0 ohms ( check with ohmmeter ) place one voltmeter across PSU caps ( best between + and - of PSU) to observe max voltage of PSU place one voltmeter at output - to observe offset place one voltmeter across one source resistors of output mosfets ; it doesn't matter which one . for test - slowly dial up Variac ( presuming that you have one , as man with many skills) up to full mains voltage , observing voltage at PSU ....... thinking about max cap voltage ( 25V as in FW ? ) , because with 0 Iq PSU is unloaded and voltage is maxed if nothing is smelling - leave Variac at full mains ; what's important - Iq must be very low , offset is irrelevant in this moment . now turn one pot one turn ( assuming that you have multiturns ) then turn other pot one turn observe Iq and offset proceed one then second pot , again just one turn observe Iq and offset again one turn + one turn now you are probably in range when you can see which pot is pulling offset in right direction - to 0 . proceed iteratively with pots , while you set - say - 75% of desired Iq and zero offset now - put lid on box and let it cook for a while - until yo get thermal equilibrium on heatsinks it's best to use wire/clips to leave those voltmeters in place ; open the lid , up bias to - say - 90% of desired one ,while maintaining offset put lid on , let it cook check ; if all is OK - move voltmeters for Iq and offset to other channel and repeat procedure use it few days at 90% of desired bias , then check and set to 100% remember - temp. equilibrium with lid on is important `````````
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Pass Labs Pearl Phono -- Pass B1 Preamp -- Pass F5 amplifier -- Pass Labs Pearl 2 |
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#11675 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: West Coast
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[QUOTE=6L6;2868635]...It's in the middle of my build guide...
Very Nice. Merci, eh? |
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#11676 |
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diyAudio Member
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That's the secondary side...
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Reference TDA1541A DAC project PCB´s / Tube-I-zator V2.0 PCB / SSHV-Shunt PCB /
Pedja Rogic´s Discrete Diamond Non-Feedback I/V Stage - Stock status in my Blog |
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#11677 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
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http://www.parttimeprojects.com/audio/diy/F5.php
One DIY-er really hated his F5. I've just got the building bug, his comments almost steer me away from trying an F5. I've got a DIY Aleph 4 (100W Class A / Ch) which I am very happy with. I just wondered if the F5 was better. 100W versus 25W might make the A4 an easier amp to use ???? Not quite sure of the sensitivity of my speakers, they are B&W 683's. |
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#11678 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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He does not discuss the voltage gain though, which at 15dB, is surely more unusual than 25W. Many tube amps of such power live along medium sensitivity home speakers. Another 15 to 20dB of line level gain before the amp is needed for the system to feel normally dynamic on circa 90dB/W speakers. Max SPL could be compromised with 25W on such speakers, but average level ''bounce'' need not.
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#11679 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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B&W state
Quote:
Quote:
Experience the B&W 683 - Bowers & Wilkins | B&W Speakers They seem to be 4ohms to 8ohms speakers that are 90dB/2.83Vac @ 1m. The 4 to 8 will effectively reduce their sensitivity to ~ 87dB/W @ 1m. They are also suggested as being compatible with 25W to 200W amplifiers. The F5 being ~50W into 4r0 just sneaks into the lower end. Worth trying, to see/hear how the Aleph compares to the F5.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#11680 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
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Hi Andrew T
Yes, I've just found the same site. Experience the B&W 683 - Bowers & Wilkins | B&W Speakers As you say 90dB/W B&Ws are notoriously horrible loads to drive. The A4 does it well. |
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| Dennis Hui, Bksabath |
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