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#11501 |
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diyAudio Member
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#11502 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
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Quote:
OK, I have tried some experiments with forced cooling - with a fan attached I can run one F5 channel on the heat sink at 34 degres C or both F5 modules on the same heat sink, the heat sink is 42 degrees C (with convection it was 54 degrees C with only one channel) The fan I am using is a 24 volt unit with a 35CFM rating (with a 41dBA noise rating - very nosiey, but all I had at hand to test) - I am running it at 19V from an old switch mode laptop power supply (yes they do have uses) (I am having trouble downloading the derating table for reduced voltage - so cant really say what the CFM is at present , but it is less than 35 CFM) I have the amp setup as per instructons, the supply voltage is +/- 23.5 Volts, for R11 and R12 the voltage is between 0.59 and .6, giving an offset voltage at the output at less than 2mV Also I have used a fully encapsulated transformer (Noratel brand), it is rated at 225Va (I will 1 per channel) but at present I am running both channels off one transformer just to check for hum under heavy current load (and it is easier for testing, less wires every where), there is absolutely no hum - these appear to be a great solution for heavy current draw applications - under these conditions it is quite warm, about 43 degrees C Other adventures - maybe this will help othes who make dumb mistakes like me - ie connect the power supply round the wrong way ( moral to the story is dont rush to test the amp , take your time and check and check again)- lots of glowing resistors ( R11 and 12 anyway) toasted Q3, Q4, Q1 and Q2. What really suprised me is that it also cooked P1 and P2 - check these as if you power up again with these cooked - what I mean is the wiper point was open circuit ad so I got the 5K which gives a high bias current and so R11 and R12 start to glow again and let out smoke. Last edited by Geofd; 31st December 2011 at 11:21 AM. |
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#11503 | |
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The one and only
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#11504 |
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diyAudio Member
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Nelson
The previous two F5 builds have used the standard grey flexible heat transfer washers. They look like they may be some sort of fabric covered in grey (silicon?) material. I have used them on other projects and never had a problem. One other change is that I did a triple plait with the pos/neg/earth DC leads between the PS rails and the F5 PCB. I seem to remember now that this might not be the best way of running these wires. Thank you for your interest in helping me. |
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#11505 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Madrid (Spain)
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I managed to get my PEH200 from Elfa. You are comparing two capacitors with a whole of different specs, thats why you see big differences between PEH200 and PEH169. You have to compare capacitors with same capacitance and voltage rating, otherwise it is useless.
IMHO, I would go with 47.000uF PEH200 better than 22.000uF PEH169
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diyAudio, doing it as big as you can, JUST BECAUSE WE CAN! |
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#11506 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I didn't know the Elfa Distrelec dealer, very interesting. ciao, have a nice day. Carlo. |
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#11507 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melbourne, Aust
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The 44,000uF of Rifa caps per rail is going to produce a massive turn-on current surge - also, 15,000/40v caps will do quite well in the basic CRC but still need a Soft Start/ CL60 limiter cct -
Not much difference in the sound of the peh200 and peh169 for the same uF value - best with fast, soft recovery diodes and avoid the common block bridges (sound is quite hard, rough with these caps) - the combination of 0.1R, 15,000uF, 0.1R, 15000uF (RCRC) is a fairly well known configuration (extra series resistor after diodes - no ceramic wirewounds) The threaded stubs on the case is for cooling the capacitor case on a heatsink - can just cut them off, insulate the case and use capacitor clamps - best mounted vertical - Not the easiest cap to use but very fast, "punchie", bright cap, slow to break-in & very long life ... ... my 2 cents
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... jh |
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#11508 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Madrid (Spain)
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I used a softstart board, but slow blow fuses should do the trick.
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diyAudio, doing it as big as you can, JUST BECAUSE WE CAN! |
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#11509 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
http://www.partsconnexion.com/product4794.html |
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#11510 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melbourne, Aust
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Yeah Regi, SoftStart and Slow fuse, just fine - I was quite surprised at the Rifa charge/discharge rates - not written directly in the specs.
IXYS bridges okay - there's some diodes specifically built for the job - fast, soft recovery - ON versions like MSRF1560, can't remember the Phillips equiv - don't be put off by the relatively slow Trr (about 50nS) - those Rifa caps are a bit harder to please than most. Can balance the sound of the amp a lot with carbon, etc (softer) Fet gate stopper resistors and metal ox in the RCRC (suggest you avoid the common Nichrome ones) without losing the "grunt" and "speed" - most other power supply caps not so critical altho some of the BHCs need some care also to bring out the exc. mids/tops (ie. the DNM versions 4 pole & slit foils) I did try a balance with Sikorels for the ripple cap and the Rifas as the power cap (ie 0.1R, Siemens 10,000uF, 0.12R, Rifa 15,000uF) with the BYV diodes (on heatsinks) for PHY-HP based speakers & copper spkr wires - rather good result.
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... jh |
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