|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Pass Labs This forum is dedicated to Pass Labs discussion. |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Marriott Assisted Living, Boca Raton, FL
|
I think you should follow Nelsons directions since you got the boards and Q pack. Nelsons hand winding skills are lagging lately, sorry he only does the slow turn, rights only.
are you sure you are not on the american idols !!!!!!!!!! /joy my halo/I enjoy my halo
__________________
alleen vragen |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
|
Using more than one 25,000 uF cap in the power supply will usually give you somewhat better low frequency response by supplementing the current flow in the power supply.
Low frequencies require a much higher amout of power than high frequencies. So, when a loud low frequency transient hits, the power supply can run out of current. The capacitors are there to supply extra current in these situations. Another thing you might want to try is, run a bunch of 10,000 uF 50V (or63V if you can get them) caps in parallel. They are readilly available and pretty affordable. One last thing.... If you use multiple caps in the power supply, consider putting a coil in the center of the capacitor bank. i.e. if you use two 25,000 uF caps, put the coil betwee the positive terminals of the two caps. If using 4 10,000 uF caps, put it between the positive terminals of the second and third cap. Basically, it should be in the middle of the capacitor bank. This coil will help eliminate any remaining ripples coming out of the power supply. I don't remember any exact values (my son was born a couple days ago, and I'm a little sleepy) but there are a few threads that contain values. You may also be able to find some good values on other people's power supply schematics. |
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: piedmont
|
CONGRATULATIONS
we just had our first, nine months ago. i remember that dazed feeling. --- i've been researching zen power supply stuff too - if i remember correctly, the recommended coil specs are 2 to 4 mH, at the lowest resistance possible. (like, less than 1ohm.) i've seen numbers like 0.3ohm. i guess the point is to minimize voltage loss across the inductor. someone correct me if i'm wrong. also, the recommended inductance is 2-4milli-H, not micro-H...correct? /andrew - will search again to make sure |
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Eire
|
If the coil resistance is to high then the coil will melt and take your nice caps down with it!!!
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Thanks every one for your response it is very preciated. USEKGB: I' m going to use 4 caps of 25000 (2 for each channel) then if I understood well , the inductor should be connected to positive terminal of the second and third caps in parallel. Faustian bargin: Yes, I saw a post saying that the recommended inductance should be between 2-4mh. I'll post some photos of my layout later, thank you guys, you are great!!
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
|
That sounds right to me. Those inductor values seem about right in the previous couple posts. I just couldn't remember at the time
Right now, I'm trying to get a good transformer without spending an arm and a leg on the Plitron. I've recently come across 4 JBL Model 6006B monoblock amplifiers and I'm thinking of stripping them down and using the parts and chassie. The only problem is, the transformer puts out 58V. It does have a couple step-down transformers that I can use on my electrostatics though .Cheers for now and happy building for everyone. |
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: piedmont
|
check out apex jr. ---the Signal BL1752. this is the one i'm going to try, once i actually get off my duff and order some parts.
someone on another forum recommended using this...just use both secondaries at 115V in for a total of 38V output. close enough anyway. for 8 bucks you can't go wrong. being a total newb, i'm not sure how exactly to wire that...if someone can clue me in with a little diagram i'd be much obliged. /andrew |
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Faustian bargin: Sorry, I can not help you, because Am totally newbie, like you. I saw my trans. and they have a lot of wires that I don't know how to connect too. But don't worry in this forum are good guys, masters guys tha I think are going to help us(I hope so......).
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
|
This transformer will work for you, but you may get a little hum from it. If you do use this transformer, you may want to enclose it in some kind of EM shield to keep the rest of your electronics free from EM interference.
To get the 38V output (this output will be fine), you just need to wire the two secondaries in series with each other. To do this, simply run the output of the first secondary winding in to the input of the second secondary winding. This is also what you are doing if you follow Mr. Pass's power supply schemtics with the toiroid. To get an idea of what the schematics look like, check out the PassDIY web site and study the power supply for the Zen V4. Instead of wiring two 18V secondaries in series, you will just be wiring a 24V and a 14V in series. Got it? If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Just remember, everyone was a newbie at one time or another. |
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.11945 seconds (81.69% PHP - 18.31% MySQL) with 10 queries |