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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Hello all. I'm getting ready to start a First Watt F3 build and have a few questions about some components. On a scale of 1 to 10 I would rate my knowledge of electronic components at a 3 so take it easy on me. I just want to make sure I'm not buying the wrong stuff.
For resistors I'm using metal film where possible, metal oxide for higher wattage resistors and ceramic where that's all I can find. Is this ok? For the potentiometers I'm using these. Are these OK? Family Rotary - Linear Resistance In Ohms 5.00K Power (Watts) 0.25W, 1/4W Will this work for the inrush current limiter? Family Inrush Current Limiters (ICL) R @ 25°C 15 Ohm Current - Steady State Max 3A R @ Current 0.335 Ohm Tolerance ±20% Is this bridge rectifier ok? Diode/Rectifier Type Single Phase Voltage - Rated 200V Current Rating 35A Package / Case MB-35 Packaging Tray Speed Standard Recovery >500ns, > 200mA Thinking about using this transformer: AVEL's Y23 series power ¤ Load Capacity: 160 VA ¤ ¤ Secondary Voltage: 18V + 18V ¤ ¤ Dimensions: 4.0" D x 1.7" H ¤ ¤ Weight: 3.3 lbs. ¤ Probably will use a stepped attenuator for volume control. Hopefully it all works out ok. Seems a little overwhelming right now but these projects normally seem to come together with parts in hand. Thanks for any help and thanks Nelson Pass for your great contribution to the DIY community. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: North of Boston
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You can get most of the parts from Digi-key or Mouser. You will need a bigger transformer >300 VA or 2 of the 160's. Get a CL_60 thermistor. I have extra if you need one.
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MikeW |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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http://cgi.ebay.com/18-18V-400VA-Tor...742.m153.l1262
How does this one look? 400VA 18+18Vac secondaries. Dual 115Vac Primaries. I can't seem to find a CL60 thermistor on digikey. Does it go by another name? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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I found the CL60 at digikey, Thanks.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Also thinking about picking up this heatsink and running a bandsaw through the middle. Seems like it would be almost perfect.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Heatsink-LARGE-a...QQcmdZViewItem |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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I have been making some more progress on getting all of my parts together. Picked up a 400VA transformer and tracked down the LU1014's. I decided that I'm going to build the heatsink out of some aluminum stock I have lying around.
On the F3 schematics it says that the R5 is matched to the JFET. How do I do this? Also, how do I adjust the 5K trim pots? One other question, on the stepped attenuator for volume control, I should match that to the output on the CD player correct? Which in my case is 50K. Thanks |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: North of Boston
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http://www.passdiy.com/pdf/ZV9.pdf
The answer to all your questions are here. ![]() Do not underestimate the size of your heatsink. The ones I have are 11 inches x 11 inches x 2.5 inch fins.
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MikeW |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Bear with me here. I've been reading the Z9 manual but it only has 1 5K pot in the circuit. The F3 has two and one more IRFP240 than the Z9. Do I measure the drain on Q5 and then adust P2 until the drain on Q3 is half? I am rather confused and don't want to smoke anything.
Thanks for clearing this up. |
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#10 |
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The one and only
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The extra Mosfet in the F3 is the power supply regulator.
The extra pot is for trimming the gain of the current source. |
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