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Old 2nd February 2008, 04:48 PM   #301
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manu

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Old 2nd February 2008, 06:57 PM   #302
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me thinks that they're olde americanino Lewyt xformers , which truly yours personally butchered from olde americanino WWII xmiter ..... on junkyard ......... where else ?

one xmitter - one xformer

3K6:18K

something like this - from machmat pagines :

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 4th February 2008, 06:41 PM   #303
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Nothing broken today...
Hehe.

But you sowed doubt in my mind about the method used to thermal coupling the Zistors.

Would Schrumpfschlauch/Heat-shrink tubing/Krimpkous (thats for frère Jacques) instead of tie-Wrap be a better solution?

Manu
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Old 4th February 2008, 06:47 PM   #304
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manu
Nothing broken today...
Hehe.

But you sowed doubt in my mind about the method used to thermal coupling the Zistors.

Would Schrumpfschlauch/Heat-shrink tubing/Krimpkous (thats for frère Jacques) instead of tie-Wrap be a better solution?

Manu
Anxious
why not ?

same length/height as tie-wrap - leaving exposed as much you can of eeny weeny TO92
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Old 5th February 2008, 04:24 AM   #305
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manu
Nothing broken today...
Hehe.

But you sowed doubt in my mind about the method used to thermal coupling the Zistors.

Would Schrumpfschlauch/Heat-shrink tubing/Krimpkous (thats for frère Jacques) instead of tie-Wrap be a better solution?

Manu
Anxious

No, it would not offer any tension once just around 45C, cause it turns soft at that temperature.

Zip ties or metal is the way to go.

Magura
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Old 5th February 2008, 10:11 AM   #306
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Quote:
Originally posted by vitalstates



here ya go :

http://www.axminster.co.uk/pricing/I...rill-22285.htm


but mine is not as sexy as the one shown in the pic

Ed

what's point ?
in through hole you make or in bigger dia hole ,than you need ?

through hole is a must - in 90% of situations , and exact dia for tap is easy to find ;

trick is in steady , slow drilling , lubricating is a must ( WD40 is handy , even if I use some more esoteric stuff - and you don't wanna know that's in fact nothing else than goat fat).

tapping - again lubricating is must ;
half turn right , then half turn back ........
coffee is obligatory , too .......
and no hurry

sounds easy ?

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Old 5th February 2008, 11:36 AM   #307
Manu is offline Manu  Europe
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zen Mod



what's point ?
in through hole you make or in bigger dia hole ,than you need ?

through hole is a must - in 90% of situations , and exact dia for tap is easy to find ;

trick is in steady , slow drilling , lubricating is a must ( WD40 is handy , even if I use some more esoteric stuff - and you don't wanna know that's in fact nothing else than goat fat).

tapping - again lubricating is must ;
half turn right , then half turn back ........
coffee is obligatory , too .......
and no hurry

sounds easy ?

For tapping in soft material like Al, I now prefer to use Hand tapping tool as I ended having must less broken tap than with drilling machines. I found that, this way, it is so much easier to control.
Lubrification with common lamp-oil (cheap) but I am not a profi.

For drilling, the opposite. I prefer pillar drill (broken drill on ZenMods pic is the result of free hand drilling on kitchen table, smoking and drinking a beer at the same time)
 
Old 5th February 2008, 12:37 PM   #308
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redrill the bottom of the hole with a broken drill, you'll have more clearance for the debris, which makes the threading easier.

(me made lots of 50 cents/hr for tapping big holes during child slavery years)

pssst: anyone in Ostricha(or other Birdy-ca) interested in sharing a switcher dump ?
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Old 5th February 2008, 04:35 PM   #309
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For tapping I use a guide of some sort, usually a piece of wood with a tight hole for the tap.

The guide is clamped onto e.g. the heat sink.
 
Old 5th February 2008, 04:59 PM   #310
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For tapping aluminum there are some tricks. Using a pillar drill or drill press as I know them is certainly helpful. If you are specifically talking about drilling heatsinks, I have often had the problem of the drill location coming out the other side partially on a sink fin. This will cause the bit to bend away from the fin and snap.

I use WD-40 as a lubricant when I don't have magic tap aluminum at hand. That stuff works better than anything else I have tried. It reduces broken drills and taps considerably. So, the trick is to mark the hole location as needed and start the hole dry. This will allow you to accurately locate the drill point on the mark. Once there is a small divet started, add you lubricant and begin drilling. With a pillar drill and a small bit, be very careful not to apply too much pressure. So drill down a bit and then lift the bit up and out of the hole. What you want to see is the aluminum in the flutes of the bit spin free as the bit comes out of the hole or as you plunge back into the hole, the aluminum should ride up the flutes and fall away. If you see that the material in the flutes is not clearing, you should stop and use a pick to get it out. When you break a bit 90% of the time it is caused by the material loading in the flutes and binding in the hole. Don't allow the material to load up in the flutes. Depending on the depth of the hole, put a drop of oil in the hole midway through the hole. You can tell if you need more oil if the flutes are not ejecting the chips well.

Tapping follows the same rules. Keep the chips out of the hole and you shouldn't have an issue.
 

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