Zen Mod said:
Yes, you have said that, I assumed that it will do for the large ones. Never thought it will do for the 2 small ones on the shunty.
BTW, I am now thinking of trying (HSK) 401-67503
- 3-15/16" x 1-5/8" x 1/2".
for the big ones.
Not sure what to do about the small ones, given that somewhere among the pumpkin threads somebody said 3degrees/W or better is needed or else the tranny will heatup quite a bit.
Algar,
Sorry for the threadjack.
ZM,
While I realize alum sheet will work it will not retain the shunty's studly appearance. Like clear backed watches I admire visual perfection in my projects (petty I know), but that is the beauty of diy. That being said the smaller T220 heat sinks fall in function category. If you have Euro source I will buy some extras and divvy them out on this hemisphere
Bill
While I realize alum sheet will work it will not retain the shunty's studly appearance. Like clear backed watches I admire visual perfection in my projects (petty I know), but that is the beauty of diy. That being said the smaller T220 heat sinks fall in function category. If you have Euro source I will buy some extras and divvy them out on this hemisphere
Bill
Instead of sheet one could get a piece of aluminum "C" channel and cut one of the legs shorter so it will bolt onto the board. The center portion (face?) of the channel would go vertically and the other leg would be full length and cover the big caps. This could be made very clean looking. 1/16" thick is less than 2mm but 3/32" would be a bit more and prob perfect... I'm going with 1/8" which is even thicker and easily available.
The only problem is attaching it to the holes in the board as you would have to tap up into the vertical part. But if you
cut the vertical part a little narrower than the holes in the board and leave the leg on the board wider than the holes, you can just have through holes in the leg on the board..
This could all be done laboriously with a hacksaw, and file or Dremal tool in a reasonable amount of time.. and could look quite good if cleaned up with 600 grit paper.
The only problem is attaching it to the holes in the board as you would have to tap up into the vertical part. But if you
cut the vertical part a little narrower than the holes in the board and leave the leg on the board wider than the holes, you can just have through holes in the leg on the board..
This could all be done laboriously with a hacksaw, and file or Dremal tool in a reasonable amount of time.. and could look quite good if cleaned up with 600 grit paper.
wirewiggler said:
For the TO 220 I got these (fit perfectly)
Fisher HS : SK 75/5O SA
Surch for KÜHLSCHIENE SK 75/5O SA on e.g. www.conrad.de
The big ones are :
SK 81/ 50 SA
(e.g. Farnell 1211718 )
Manu
Algar_emi said:
Algar,
That is good job, how did you get the cut to be so flush with the Alu plate. Did you grind it out with Dremell?
Manu said:
Manu,
Ouch, it is $1.71 each plus shipping. Looks like we do not have much of a choice but to bite the bullet.
wirewiggler,
Thanks for the offer, If you are starting a GB, put me down for 4 of these small ones.
I heard no comments on my choice for using (HSK) 401-67503
- 3-15/16" x 1-5/8" x 1/2".
for the big ones. Guess, this would work huh?
Regards,
Dinesh
dviswa said:
beauty is in eye of beholder .....
few things - you are making here preamp worth nice number of greens , so - you really can't make it totally cheapie ........ if you insist on beauty .......... in that manner .....
second - I don't like to think instead of anyone else , when that person really can think for himself
that 401.... is certainly good , so you can use it ;
besides that solution - I'm sure thaty you 'll find on any surplus place or junkyard what you need .... maybe not exactly prepared -as waiting for you- but certainly as part of something ;
if you can find few dead PC PS-es , I'm sure you can find both nice and effective heatsinks in them ....
It cut the heatsink on my bench saw, using a non-ferrous metal blade. Then, I used a belt grinder/sander to remove the cutting leftover.
Then, the 4 heatsink halves and the 1/8" aluminum plate were fixed in a small jig that I made to keep everything straight and well aligned. Nothing fancy, just a piece of wood, an piece of metal channel and two clamps.
I put some heatsink compound between the heatsink and the plate before assembly. They were all drilled together at the same time. Then I tapped the holes using a 4-40 tap. It took about 45min per heatsink assy to make. I did it in one Sunday afternoon.
I didn't try to save money. Just to make some nice heatsink and have fun...
To bad www.Conrad.de doesn't deliver to Canada, from their website "we do not deliver to the USA or Canada"...
Then, the 4 heatsink halves and the 1/8" aluminum plate were fixed in a small jig that I made to keep everything straight and well aligned. Nothing fancy, just a piece of wood, an piece of metal channel and two clamps.
I put some heatsink compound between the heatsink and the plate before assembly. They were all drilled together at the same time. Then I tapped the holes using a 4-40 tap. It took about 45min per heatsink assy to make. I did it in one Sunday afternoon.
I didn't try to save money. Just to make some nice heatsink and have fun...
To bad www.Conrad.de doesn't deliver to Canada, from their website "we do not deliver to the USA or Canada"...
Algar,
Nice, I did the same but larger on my F4 heat sinks and they literally wick heat away from the plate. R cores arrived they look sweet - ZM this may be my last preamp (he he - said that three preamp s ago).I am going to try to get a friend of mine to bring me 12 of the little TO220 heat sinks with her when she comes over from France, so I will have two spare sets.
Bill
Nice, I did the same but larger on my F4 heat sinks and they literally wick heat away from the plate. R cores arrived they look sweet - ZM this may be my last preamp (he he - said that three preamp s ago).I am going to try to get a friend of mine to bring me 12 of the little TO220 heat sinks with her when she comes over from France, so I will have two spare sets.
Bill
Attachments
dviswa said:
well - without macro pic I can tell for sure , but silpad ( is that grayish thingie often found in dead PC PS-es ?) certainly look more than capable to fill even biggie ridges .......
look at my bluries in
thread and you'll see the ones I use ...... Master Scavenger in work .....
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.