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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I need some help in regard to the IRFP9610 heat sink. If you look at the pic below, heatsinks for the IRFP9610 are touching (Labelled 37 and 6). My question is there is a continuity between the two heatsinks with both "cooling tab"s (where you put the screw in), is it ok or it is a big no? Also, is it possible making a 10pf condensator with just a capacitance meter? THank you for your help in advance.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Malaysia
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You can always isolate the IRF9610 from the heatsink using the proper insulators (including the bushing for the screw!). This way, it doesn't matter if the heatsinks touch each other. I don't remember the circuit diagram, but if the center tabs of both MOSFETs are at the same potential (ie connected to the same point in the schematic), then you can leave out the insulation altogether which makes for a better heat transfer.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Austin, TX
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Hi Kristian,
Nice build quality. Are those nylon sleeves on all of your components? Why did you raise them off the board? I like your heatsinks. Best Regards, Dale
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doing my part to Keep Austin Wierd. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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They are clear heatshrink which fit most of the component's "leg." The reason I raise the component because I thought it looks neat and better performance
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: -
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Quote:
Heat here is of no consequence, all you are doing is making it incredibly long to put the board together (which may prolong your enjoyment ), lenghtening the signal path, and making it impossible to probe voltages during testing.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Austin, TX
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Hi Paolo (grataku),
I was thinking the exact same thing, but was afraid to write that down. I needed to check my voltages during testing. Would have been very difficult with heat tubing. I have heard of raising some components off the board slightly to add a small space for air to flow. Slightly means barely visible... Kristian, we are not trying to "dis" you, just trying to understand and help others. Best Regards, Dale
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doing my part to Keep Austin Wierd. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Bawang,
Thanks for the info, I will check the schematic for that. Grataku, Yes, Grataku, Indeed the heatshrink prolong my enjoyment ![]() Dale, I also would like to express my deepest gratitude to Brian and Dale for their effort which allows me (and others) to get a chance to hear one of the best amp that otherwise will be unaffordable (for me at least). The only thing that I am afraid when the Aleph 2 is done that suddenly my preamp is not good enough, and then I realized my speaker is not giving me enough. The whole world starting to crumble in front of my eyes.......... |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: LA County
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TjongKristian,
Looking at your component installation reminds me that there is one area that I would like (but forgot to mention) BrianGT/Harvadian to incorporate into the board layout for the second batch of group buys ... and that is ... to have the component call out to be shown outside of the rectangular box (i.e. not directly below the components) ... just like the Aleph-X boards. No big deal but ... Dale/Brian, If there is going to be a third group buys (or is it fourth?), is this something that can be done easily? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Austin, TX
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Hi Roderick,
Moving the reference designators is very easy. If not carefully done, it can lead to confusion. A trade off. The important thing is to try and be consistent (i.e. always below, or to the right, etc). I just ordered more boards, but made no changes to them. Dale
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doing my part to Keep Austin Wierd. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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What caps does Mr. Pass use in the original ALEPHs? Black Gates?
Thanks |
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