Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Pass Labs
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Pass Labs This forum is dedicated to Pass Labs discussion.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 18th January 2003, 03:09 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Default Our Aleph 2 PCB - Critique please!

I and a few other fellows have been working on the Aleph 2 amp (for longer than we would like to admit!). It has been a long slog, what with looking for appropriate heat sinks and so forth.

Anyway, we are now at the stage of ordering our PCBs and would greatly appreciate any comments on our layout (as well as any tips on ordering the boards).

What you will notice is that we are mounting the driver board directly to the caps which will be located at each corner of the board. The transformer (Plitron 1000VA) will be situated in the middle of the four caps directly below the PCB. Also, the output boards will be run at the same time - you can see them on each end of the layout.

If the image isn't great, I can email the dxf or PDF.

Thanks!

BTW: We will be getting pricing soon so if anybody is interested in going in on the order...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg aleph2_pcb.jpg (77.7 KB, 1407 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th January 2003, 03:33 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Salt Lake City
Pretty neat. I'd make the speaker + connection pad large enough for at least 12 ga wire, preferably even larger than that!! Also the fiol trace for same.....and the other side of resistors R-22 to R-27 shuold be very heavy as well. These traces carry the full brunt of the output signal. Too small of trace for the speaker + been a common mistake on may of the PCB's I've seen here. What ounce will the traces be...at least 2 oz I hope and preferably 4!! Silkscreened, solder mask, and what else???? Did I hear you say Gold platinbg too?????
Mark
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th January 2003, 04:33 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Peter Daniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Send a message via AIM to Peter Daniel
The ground path form closed loops, I don't think it's good. You might get hum because of that.
__________________
www.audiosector.com
“Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th January 2003, 04:42 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Western Australia
Send a message via MSN to Scribble
Id be very interested! but depends on price obviously.. hope they turn out well!

BTW im in Australia for shipping wise.

Does any one know of anyone in australia who does any aleph or zen boards?

Thanks,
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th January 2003, 05:38 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Salt Lake City
Peter,
I guess they could open up the ground on the right side between the two pads there....put in a couple of more pads to have the option of a continous ground or not. I agree though it may cause some problems in some cases. Also don't know if I'd mount an unshielded toroid right unde the board. Going that route you might end up a bit noisier.....A toroid in a can would probably work out though....
Mark
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th January 2003, 01:57 PM   #6
fcel is offline fcel  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: LA County
Twangbar,

1. I'm not sure why you label Q1, Q2 & Q3 as M1, Q2 & M3 and Q4 and Q5 as Q1 and Q2. Why not label them like the original schematics says to avoid any kind of confusion later on.

2. I can't really tell from the picture but you might want to have a little more pin spacing for Q1 and Q2 (per your dwg) so that it's easier to solder. I guess same comment on M1 to M3. May be have the trace "staggered" for the center pin?

3. Again, I can't tell from the picture but you might want to have a wide enough spacing to install a pot for R19 for trimming later. I think the chances of having the bias for both channel to be exactly the same is very slim. So a provision for a little trimming later on is a good idea, I think.

4. If you intend the output boards to be "join" together with the driver board, then why not have the G, D, S and sense trace from the output boards go all the way to the driver boards? That way, you don't need any wires.

5. I personally like "terminal block" because it gives me the option of easier swapping of boards later (without desoldering) and for troubleshooting purposes (i.e. if you have to take out the boards from the chassis for any reason). Do you want to consider that option? If you do, make sure about hole spacing for the appropriate locations.
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th January 2003, 11:50 AM   #7
MWP is offline MWP  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Why not use a ground fill?
The loops youve created in your ground tracks is not a good idea.
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th January 2003, 07:32 AM   #8
Soucie is offline Soucie  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Hi guys;

I'm one of the guys who did this PCB layout. Someone else did the core layout and I prettied/fixed it up and added the big caps. It's very late for me so I'll make a couple of quick comments right now to get things out of the way. I'll go through the replies more thoroughly tomorrow.

1. the FET boards are intended to be sheared or cut off the main board by us, thus saving the seperate board costs. Then cut the FET boards into 3's (or 2 and 4's...FET's that is). We have 4 sinks just like the real Aleph 2

2. this layout was made a single sided board for cost but I will probably convert it to double sided after all. The point about the small ground loop on the left is valid but the tracks are wide. It's easily changed. The "ring" is more by layout/cap topology so it probably needs a few opinions from people. I was contemplating the ground fill method with a ground plane on the top side(thus eliminating the loop, but passed initially because my arm was getting tired from wrestling Orcad(pro layout software). It's a dog IMHO. But nonetheless I'm sure I can make it work with some effort.

3. this picture(not the actual layout) has several false anomolies from the Orcad to DXF to god knows what to JPG conversion. Plus the input connection tracks fell off for a still unknown LVS reason. I have to rework it.

4. transistor labelling was done by "the other guy". It's based off the Orcad schematic he entered and gave to me. Easily checked and changed

5. forget the gold plating, we are on a budget;-) We'll go for thick copper with solder mask and silkscreen

6. the speaker wire holes fit 12 gauge. I'll double check.

7. pin spacing between Q1 Q2. It's a standard footprint that I have soldered to easily before and is supplied by Orcad(a pro CAD tool). Are people really having problems soldering to this size pin spacing(FET or not)? I know some people don't solder very neatly with their Weller solder gun:-O ba-da-boom....sorry
Opinions anyone??

Ok I think I hit most of the ones that needed clarifying. Keep it coming! I'll look into the other ones such as the trimpot.

Anybody know who the PCB supplier was for the last large order batch of Aleph 2 PCB's? I'll ship the boards pretty well anywhere if they are of use to anybody. Get's our order quantity up and the PCB cost down! And I have a Paypal account if people want to get in on this(plus money orders).....we'll talk....

Thanks
John
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th January 2003, 07:40 AM   #9
Soucie is offline Soucie  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Since I'm here I might as well throw out a question. Does anyone around here have any experience with Orcad PCB layout software from Cadence? I have a few basic questions on some things that are causing me problems. The manuals aren't the best.

John
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd October 2007, 11:27 AM   #10
marce is offline marce  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blackburn, Lancs
Capacitor ground pads for C1-4 look awfully close to where the boards are going to be cut, even if board is scored and cut with a "pizza slice" pcb cutter you havn't much room for faux pas's.
Ground plane on top would be best option, allow the current to find its own optional low impedence route back to the psu source point.
Dont use Orccad, but do use Cadstar and Pads so may be able to help a little as a lot of the basic techniqes are the same from 1 package to another (Slap the parts down and join the dots )
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Please critique my PCB design darkfenriz Class D 26 8th August 2008 03:49 PM
need critique, Mic pre amp impsick Solid State 16 25th May 2007 12:56 AM
1st PCB - critique, please! sobazz Chip Amps 16 24th March 2004 09:40 PM
Please critique my Gainclone PCB Felix Chip Amps 33 11th January 2004 03:25 PM
Critique my USB DAC design MWP Digital Source 14 14th August 2003 07:00 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 10:51 PM.

Page generated in 0.11846 seconds (89.95% PHP - 10.05% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio