Non yellowing clear varnish for valve amp

[johnm]

Hi!

I'm planning to strip my pair of Quad IIs down to the bare metal, polish these up and apply a clear lacquer to protect the metal. They have both seen better days, and none of the components inside are original so I have no qualms about doing this.

I've read that lacquer when exposed to extremes of heat can have a tendency to yellow with age (even the so-called non yellowing formulas!). Obviously the Quad II puts out alot of heat, so I was wondering if anyone out there had any recommendations for a lacquer (available in the UK) that would do the trick here?

Thank you.

- John

[Geek]

Hi,

Varathane has a spray clear topcoat that I understand will do this well. Fellow in the hardware store told me he coated his guitar amp chassis in the stuff and it has held up for six monts so far. Haven't tried it myself though.

Cheers!

[johnm]

Thanks for that I'll look into this!

Cheers,

- John

[mpmarino]

Although difficult to use safely, I think automotive clear coat would stay crystal clear under most conditions.

Other than that I would think a lacquer solvent based product would stand a better chance than water or oil based. IMHO.

[poynton]

If you are not concerned about the originality, why not get the chassis chrome plated ??

Andy

[pinkmouse]

Threads merged. Please don't cross post.

[johnm]

Sorry Pinkmouse thought I'd posted in the wrong place to get the most results so repeated the question in the parts section.

Thanks for merging :-)

Thanks also for the suggestions folks - will try the automotive route.

Love the look of polished steel, but think chrome plating is too bright if that makes sense - haha!

cheers,

- John

[redrabbit]

Not familiar with the Quad's case.....
What kind of metal is it ?

In any case, Varathane is an oil-base polyurethane, and will yellow with age. Looks great on wood though. Some folks think the yellowing over time adds character to the wood.



mpmarino is correct, automotive clear is a good choice.
Heat...think about it-- Put your hand on a black car sitting in the hot sun,..... .

*Almost always must be sprayed.
*Must also use the matching thinner solvent(s).
*Can be found in high gloss, semi-gloss and "flat" these days.
*Water thinnable versions are now becoming mandatory in some states.... everywhere eventually.
*Preparing and cleaning the metal is everything .
*Expensive.
*Looks great though.

There are too many products out there to recommend "one".
Dupont and PPG are the biggest.
Research your local auto repair supply stores, see what brands they carry.
If you are not up to spraying it yourself...
I once found a auto painting shop , walked in with a faceplate, and inquired "what would it cost to paint this..."
....when they found out it was for my DIY hobby, they happily painted it for $50.
My girlfriend could have had it done for free.

=FB=

[poynton]

There is also a process called 'chemical polishing'.
I don't know what it is exactly. I used to do some part-time work for a company that used the process on stainless steel. Whether it is only applicable to SS , I am not sure but the finish was superb.

Andy

[Series1]

There is a product called spar varnish or spar lacquer. It is intended for a fairly harsh marine environment and I have used it on aluminimum (motorcycle parts actually), it went on well via both brush and spraygun and has not flaked or yellowed over 4 years. The one downside for your use is that although it is clear and transparent it is not absolutely crystal/glassy clear.