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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: the north
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here a close up The pair, is a 'matched complementary' pair BD139 BD140 .. with my test figures on a paper attached with piece of wire. Also can see some simple home made heatsinks I use sometimes just in case. I have bigger heatsinks for TO-126 TO-220 for 'hotter bias' applications, approaching temperture limit Regards lineup
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#32 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: the north
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![]() I still have a couple of those TO-3 big BUX39 left. I bought 10 of them from a surplus sale, for almost nothing. They are good for some heavier Currents non-Audio-amplifier things. Those 2 caps are Polypropylene Axial: marked: ERO KP1832, 200V=, 5%, 0.43uF In upper right is a capture from A slaughter of old Transformator. Enamelled copper wire is good for many things .... in my little corner of my room company: LIneup Audio Lab >>>> .. like 4 square meter. ( 2m x 2m ) But dont you go fool your selves, too much - plenty of small goodies is too be found inside that little limited space of my life Image #3 - my last for today.
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#33 | |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
That's the whole idea behind surface mounted parts. Cooling SMT devices requires some considerations about the pcb.
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/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me Tube Buffered Gainclone in work |Thread |
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#34 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Quote:
Where did you find the Cob spec of the BD139 ? I've never seen it in all versions of data sheets that I have. Thank Bye Gaetan |
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#35 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Do these ones look like genuine Philips units?
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ottawa Canada
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They don't look like mine ... which were manufacted by Philips about 25 - 30 years ago ...
The ones I have have the printing of the type number on the bottom row closest to the pins ... not the next row up, like these. The three moulding dots are located close to the through hole, the edge is under 1 mm away, unlike these that have the moulding dots almost in the upper corners of the body. |
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#37 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Quote:
I just measured CoB capacitance of some BD's that I have at 0V for comparison. ST BD139 50pF No brand BD139 (PH402) 102pF Philips BD139 30pF Philips BD137 32pF Harris BD137 22pF No Brand (PH99) BD137 52pF Philips BD140 52pF Harris BD140 35pF I find almost nothing about those Harris devices at internet. I look forward to find some info about their specs, especially Ft. |
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#38 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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no mention of original Motorola ?
I have a few with greyish house and gold legs but they have been pulled from burned amp many years ago, so I will need to check them |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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UPS!
I had not noticed this is a reopened older thread but whatever, I measured my old Motorola BD139/140 not that I know much about how, but with diode function on my multimeter, I read 900...something from one leg to other two, on all the shown devices so I guess they are all ok ?
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#40 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
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You must have a capacitance meter which able to measure in picofarads. You have to measure 2nd leg (Collector) and 3rd leg (Base) with capacitance meter for comparison.
If you want to know your transistors are working or not, just measure their HfE using a suitable multimeter. Many multimeters contain this feature rather than capacitance measurement. |
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