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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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OK, so I have a nice amp (not going to mention the name, starts with C and tends to lead to lots of argumentation), but it's old and has the then "standard" spring-loaded "push down, insert wire, let go" type of speaker wire connection. Each channel has a set of two of these that make up one "module" that's about 2 inches wide (screws holding it onto cabinet are 1 3/4" apart, holes for each connector component are 5/8" in diameter (plenty big) and are about 1 3/4" apart center on center).
So, of course, one of 'em breaks. Being the DIY'er I am, I figure, hey, what a great upgrade anyways, let's just rip 'em out and replace with binding posts. Problems is, most/all binding posts I've found expect much smaller 11mm hole and would "fall through" my existing holes unless I used some weird shim system or something. So now it's occuring to me, doesn't somebody have a "out with the old, in with the new" kit for this? I mean, most of these modules look to be about exactly the same and create a replacement set shouldn't be a big deal. Anything out there that anybody knows of or know of somebody that has a HUGE selection of binding posts with various diameters? (I've checked parts express and connexion, of coruse). TIA for any insights or advice, Terry |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: nsw
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I know it doesn't directly answer your question (and I hope I haven't misunderstood) but I would find the integrity of your connection to be more important than the size of the binding posts, and I would choose to solder them in any case, using a small extension if I was forced to.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Well of course I'll soldering the interior connections, just as they currently are (de-solder, solder onto new connectors). The diameter is important as I have to worry about it mounting properly and being stable and also not having any potential shorts with the case.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: S Yorkshire OK
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By coincidence I'm replacing the same style clips on my NAD3020 with some "proper" terminals, but the spring ones are a block of four soldered straight to the PCB like the ones on the right here.
If yours are like the ones left I'd replace them with these with the twin washer, making a plate from a scrap of thin sheet to take the terminals and cover the old holes. In the case of the NAD it will have to be fresh holes in the back panel, the terminals have all the insulation needed for isolation. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Well, I spent 20 minutes on that web site putting together and order, only to find out at the end they only take minimum 100 pound (monetary) orders outside of UK. I don't have close to $200 US in parts to order, so what a waste of time.
If somebody knows of similar supplier here in US that'd be great. Parts Express and Connexion have terminals, but they're so small I'd have to create sheet metal blanks, etc, and I was REALLY wanting to avoid the hassle of that and the unprofessional looking results. I would like this to look like an upgrade, not a "fix". |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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I had a broken speaker connection clip on my old Sansui amp. The original speaker connection module attached to the amp enclosure with a steel spring clip on each side of a rectangular cutout in the enclosure. I made a new speaker connection module using a piece of Plexiglas (from Home Depot) that I painted black and with binding posts I purchased from PartsExpress. I attached the new module with a couple of screws to the enclosure. Looks as good as the original and now I can us banana plugs.
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: S Yorkshire OK
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Quote:
Or check these out as a straight swap-in. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Quote:
Yeah, I actually liked these, except for the 'up to 16 awg' wire. I mean, any decent amp these days should take at least 12 awg, 16 is embrassing. The other measurements are so close I may try it out and use bananas (which I think stink, rather use wire/nut for connection). |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Left Coast
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The spring clips don't look very "audiophile" but in some respects I like them better than "5-ways". For one thing you can push the stripped wire ends in right up to the insulation. For another, if the enclosure is small they take up less space.
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Quote:
This is not a matter of function over form. Unless the springs in your amazing set of spring-loaded terminals provide 50 pounds or so per square inch of tension, then they cannot compare to "5 way bind posts". I myself think banana's are a bad connection, and that the best is wire, through a hole, then tensioned down with a nut, plain and simple, lots of contact, high tensile strength, little to complain about. Spades would be my next choice, but no popular in the U.S. for some reasons. If you talk to the vendors at CES the primary reason for bananas to even exist is for vendor put-up and tear-downs, it saves them a tremendous amount of time not just for initial config's, but also changing config's for various demos or other reasons during the show. In fact, I've had one high-end vendor tell me straight out that they did not want to offer banana connection but that their distributors went nuts when it was suggested they actually spend the time to make/break proper connections. |
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