magnet wire (not sure of the term) used as chassis wire?

jarthel · 19th September 2006, 09:49 AM

I have some magnet wire (solid copper wire with varnish coating. I think these are called magnet wire) here.

I need a solid wire and I cannot find it at the local electronics/electrical shop and I was thinking if I can use them. I have some teflon tubing I can use on it.

Thank you for the reply.

poobah · 19th September 2006, 03:58 PM

Magnet wire can be a hassle because of the varnish. If you already have teflon tubing... just buy some tinned solid condutor wire with insulation and strip it away as you need to. Or use the insulation as is.

The teflon will have a higher voltage rating, depending on the wire you can find... it may be the safer choice for a tube amp.

jarthel · 19th September 2006, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by poobah
Magnet wire can be a hassle because of the varnish. If you already have teflon tubing... just buy some tinned solid condutor wire with insulation and strip it away as you need to. Or use the insulation as is.

The teflon will have a higher voltage rating, depending on the wire you can find... it may be the safer choice for a tube amp.

I cannot find any insulated/uninsulated solid wire locally

and going to Farnell or RS (the biggest online electronic shop in the country) isn't possible since i only need a meter. they sell by the spools possibly 100meters minimum.

poobah · 19th September 2006, 05:43 PM

right... just make sure you scrape ALL the varnish...

Nordic · 19th September 2006, 07:35 PM

the spools aren't "that" expensive... you always find stuff to do with it once you have one....

aerius · 19th September 2006, 07:51 PM

It works but it's a pain in the butt, stripping the varnish off the ends isn't fun at all. The best way is to dip the end in a bath of molten solder, problem is wave soldering machines are rather huge and expensive to say the least, not to mention heavy enough to go through house floors.

Failing that the best technique I've found to date is using a butane mini-torch to burn the varnish off the ends, and then use 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper to clean up the residue. Still time consuming, but a lot easier than scraping with an X-acto knife. Just remember that copper conducts heat really well so you don't want to hold it with your fingers while torching the ends.

Another useful tip, use a Sharpie marker to colour code the wires so you don't get all confused. You don't want to mix up positive & negative or accidentally connect mains power into the input stage of an amp.

billabong · 27th September 2006, 05:45 PM

Jaycar in Australia have three sizes in solid core that would be suitable. The kynar insulated high quality silver plated Wire Wrap wire is good for wiring preamps. Available in three colours on a33 meter spool for Au$13.50. The roll I have is 24 AWG.

There's also 22AWG (0.71mm) tinned Copper wire, for wire links,etc., and a hook-Up Wire Pack which is the right size for breadboards ( I guess around 0.9mm dia).

Audie.

planet10 · 27th September 2006, 06:49 PM

Thin magnet wire makes a good wire for wiring internals. You do have to take more care with the routing (pretend as if it had no insulation), and the varnish can be a pain (a good solder pot comes in handy here). It comes really close to having an air dialectric.

dave

Geek · 27th September 2006, 09:50 PM

For medium wire (say #28 to #22), a simple bic lighter applied to the end for a quick second takes care of the insulation. Then some 300 or better, 400 grit sandpaper for the oxidization. Whole process takes 20 seconds. For thinner than #28, just use the sandpaper and patience.

For thick wire (#20 and thicker), use a retractable blade knife and make like peeling a carrot on the end

19th September 2006, 09:49 AM	#1
jarthel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: somewhere in Australia	magnet wire (not sure of the term) used as chassis wire? I have some magnet wire (solid copper wire with varnish coating. I think these are called magnet wire) here. I need a solid wire and I cannot find it at the local electronics/electrical shop and I was thinking if I can use them. I have some teflon tubing I can use on it. Thank you for the reply.

27th September 2006, 06:49 PM	#8
planet10 frugal-phile(tm) diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III Blog Entries: 5	Thin magnet wire makes a good wire for wiring internals. You do have to take more care with the routing (pretend as if it had no insulation), and the varnish can be a pain (a good solder pot comes in handy here). It comes really close to having an air dialectric. dave __________________ community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA

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19th September 2006, 03:58 PM	#2
poobah diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005	Magnet wire can be a hassle because of the varnish. If you already have teflon tubing... just buy some tinned solid condutor wire with insulation and strip it away as you need to. Or use the insulation as is. The teflon will have a higher voltage rating, depending on the wire you can find... it may be the safer choice for a tube amp.

19th September 2006, 05:43 PM	#4
poobah diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005	right... just make sure you scrape ALL the varnish...

19th September 2006, 07:35 PM	#5
Nordic diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2005	the spools aren't "that" expensive... you always find stuff to do with it once you have one....

19th September 2006, 07:51 PM	#6
aerius diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	It works but it's a pain in the butt, stripping the varnish off the ends isn't fun at all. The best way is to dip the end in a bath of molten solder, problem is wave soldering machines are rather huge and expensive to say the least, not to mention heavy enough to go through house floors. Failing that the best technique I've found to date is using a butane mini-torch to burn the varnish off the ends, and then use 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper to clean up the residue. Still time consuming, but a lot easier than scraping with an X-acto knife. Just remember that copper conducts heat really well so you don't want to hold it with your fingers while torching the ends. Another useful tip, use a Sharpie marker to colour code the wires so you don't get all confused. You don't want to mix up positive & negative or accidentally connect mains power into the input stage of an amp.

27th September 2006, 05:45 PM	#7
billabong diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mount Isa, Queensland	Jaycar in Australia have three sizes in solid core that would be suitable. The kynar insulated high quality silver plated Wire Wrap wire is good for wiring preamps. Available in three colours on a33 meter spool for Au$13.50. The roll I have is 24 AWG. There's also 22AWG (0.71mm) tinned Copper wire, for wire links,etc., and a hook-Up Wire Pack which is the right size for breadboards ( I guess around 0.9mm dia). Audie.

27th September 2006, 09:50 PM	#9
Geek diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004	For medium wire (say #28 to #22), a simple bic lighter applied to the end for a quick second takes care of the insulation. Then some 300 or better, 400 grit sandpaper for the oxidization. Whole process takes 20 seconds. For thinner than #28, just use the sandpaper and patience. For thick wire (#20 and thicker), use a retractable blade knife and make like peeling a carrot on the end