simple passive crossover?

[CommanderZero]

i need a make a very simple crossover for my KLH speakers...its just that i dont know the first thing about impendence or ohms or any of that stuff all i know is is my rear speakers will be of 1 driver and 1 tweeter pulled out of one of the KLH platnum series 325-II's and the center will be of 2 drivers and 1 tweeter pulled from the KLH platnum series 525-II.anyone know how i can work this out? im hoping that these will be parts i can simply buy at the electronics store, or, should i dare say....radioshack? as you can see this doesnt need to be an EXTREMELY "quality" job. all im asking for is the parts list and soldering configuration. thanks guys!

[Dick West]

Unless you get responses from folks with intimate knowledge of the particular drivers you mention you will have no luck getting a well designed crossover without measuring and xover simulation tools.

If a "textbook" xover will suffice go here for calculators:

http://www.mhsoft.nl/spk_calc.asp

Also, you may want to pose your questions here:

http://www.pesupport.com/cgi-bin/config.pl

Good luck.........

[CommanderZero]

here are pictures of the drivers/current crossover. im trying to get that 3 way crossover into a 2 way crossover, and a 5 way crossover into a 3 way crossover...but then again i could use the old 3 way for the center, so i guess i just need a 2 way crossover made. here are the pictures: (as if theyll do any good)

[chrispenycate]

Simple solution?
It looks to me as if those aren't three or five way crossovers at all, just two way (high- low) crossovers with multiple bass drivers ( particularly from the picture of the crossover itself. What is the rated impedance of the cabinet itself? (no, sorry, I'm too lazy to web search it) Now, if you've got two bass drivers, the impedance of the individual drivers is probably twice this. Get a big, chunky resistor capable of taking the same power as the cabinet, and solder it in in place of one of the bass drivers. Make sure its mechanical mounting is solid; big chunky resistors in LS cabinets have a tendency to vibrate, and break their wires, or rattle against the cabinet. Now, half the power you're sending to the cabinet is wasted, so the amp has to work harder, but the impedance is the same as same, and the balance between the units three dB off, the old cabinet (it will be a bit short on low bass, too, due to acoustic coupling) Otherwise, just ignore the resistor, find the capacitor that's in parallel with the bass driver on the crossover board (is that too complicated? there are two caps on the board, the little sitty up cans with both legs coming out one end. Probably marked "non-polarised electrolytic", from the look of them. One will go to the tweeter, the other is across the woofer; follow the tracks.) Anyway if you halve the value of the one across the woofer (if you can't get non-polarised electrolytics this is going to be a bodge) you're reasonably close to the original crossover frequency (not perfect, but we don't want to start rewinding inductors, do we?) and the amp will be happier. You've still got too much tweet for your woof, though, and a bit of resistance in series (since between the four bass drivers and the two they use the same tweeter it appears that's what they do. Since it reduces the damping factor on the tweeter I don't really like it, but lots of people do it) Assume your amp is going to ignore impedance differences; most of them do, now.
Um- before doing this, could you post a photo of the other side of the crossover PCB? It has,after all, got three separate outputs; perhaps it is considering one of those drivers as a "come in to help out the ultra lows", in which case I'm far too complicated, it's use the crossover you've got and ignore one output.

[CommanderZero]

its alright guys...i have a slight chance of plans. thanks anyway!