double-sided pcb: how to easily remove a soldered component?

[jarthel]

I have a pcb where I can solder the component either at the back or at the top. but the problem I find is that it is quite difficult to remove stuff. any tips on how to do it easily?

thank you.

[mrshow4u]

Either wet the joint with the iron and pull, or use a solder iron to wet the area then use a solder sucker.

[PepLo]

Definitely a de-soldering gun is best and it is worth to invest. What a 5 min job you need to de-solder by solder iron can be accomplished within 1 sec.

However, if you don't have a vaccum bump type de-soldering gun, firstly you can get rid of excess solder using the sucker. Then you can heat up the devices and pull together. Sometimes you need to add a little flux or solder back to the joint to have better heat transmission during the heat/pull action.

Hope this help.

[AndrewT]

Hi,
with plated through holes the heat transferrs more easily through to the other side and allows the sucker to remove the excess solder.

With drilled holes the heat can only transfer down the old component leg. If this has already been removed then without a solder plug passing all the way through then heat on one side will not transfer well enough to melt both sides.

Solder removing braid can be used on both sides to open up the holes.

twin leg components can be removed one end at a time.
Multi legged components usually need the legs snipped and each lead removed one at a time.

If one land is bigger than it's partner then heat the bigger land side to allow the solder to melt.

[poobah]

Don't rule out a second soldering iron (cheapo) and a third hand to remove a component.

The "easiest" way of removing a component is not to... check twice... solder once.

There are a zillion ways to remove a component... really, you'll just have learn them the hard way. What is most important is the PCB. Here's where newbies screw up.

0) Clip the leads close to the board and suck out the remainder... components are cheap... boards aren't.

1) Don't tug on the components until the solder is melted.

2) Don't leave your iron on any joint for more than 5 seconds (a very general rule... put your stopwatches away guys).

3) Be patient, if you are "walking" a component out by heatng one leg at a time, allow 10 or 15 seconds between "steps" for the board to cool. It's pretty easy to rip the copper right off the board once you get it hot enough.

4) Triple check components with more than 3 legs before you solder... they are HELL to remove.

5) Buy a GOOD solder sucker like this .

[Clipped]

a clamp on table vice is a good way to get that 3rd hand.

try to get a metal case solder sucker, the plastic ones i get usually break apart at the screw on nozzle after a while, and are less prone to air leaks.

[Nordic]

My latest technicue is called the heat and tap.... heat the solder and tap the board on the desk in a direction that will propell the solder away from the board... one or 2 goes and you can normaly pry the pin away from whatever solder still wants to grab on with your fingernail, turn board over slip screwdriver under component, drag soldering iron over all the top pins (might have to add solde rto get them all flowing at the same time) while applying leverage on the screwdriver.... et voila wouldnt do it on a delicate board.. but its better than sliced bread for my homebrew doublesideds....

[dsavitsk]

Originally posted by poobah
and a third hand to remove a component.

Gravity works. Clip a weight to the component, hold the board upside down, and heat all the pins at once ... and don't drop it on your bare feet.

[gmphadte]

Tools required
sodering iron, desoldering pump, small nose plier

Method
First soder all the pins wit good enough solder so that heat transfer is fast.
Hold the board in component up position which u wish to remove.
Heat a pin with sldering iron and as soon as u see the other(copper) side solder melt, use the desoldering pump in upside down position to suck the solder.
This happens very well if the suction is done immediately AFTER REMOVAL of the iron.
Repeat for all the pins of the component.
Keep the iron aside.

Some of the holes will be clean and u can see through. For these holes do as follows
These pins will be held by a little solder especially where the pin touches the hole wall.
With the help of the nose plier, bend the pin over the holding solder and straighten it back. This wil break lose the pin from the solder. Now check whether the pin is lose and free.
Repeat for all seethrough pins.

For other stubborn pins start from top.

After losening ALL the pins, take out the component.

It's a childs play LOL

Gajanan Phadte

[clem_o]

If you're going to be doing it often enough, an investment in a desoldering station is worth it.

There's one type that blows controlled temp hot air over the work (you can change the flange to fit the outline of the component's legs) - works for IC's with centipede-like legs...


And, China-made worstations are very inexpensive nowadays. I have one and it works well enough...


Cheers!