Definitely a de-soldering gun is best and it is worth to invest. What a 5 min job you need to de-solder by solder iron can be accomplished within 1 sec.
However, if you don't have a vaccum bump type de-soldering gun, firstly you can get rid of excess solder using the sucker. Then you can heat up the devices and pull together. Sometimes you need to add a little flux or solder back to the joint to have better heat transmission during the heat/pull action.
Hope this help.
However, if you don't have a vaccum bump type de-soldering gun, firstly you can get rid of excess solder using the sucker. Then you can heat up the devices and pull together. Sometimes you need to add a little flux or solder back to the joint to have better heat transmission during the heat/pull action.
Hope this help.
Hi,
with plated through holes the heat transferrs more easily through to the other side and allows the sucker to remove the excess solder.
With drilled holes the heat can only transfer down the old component leg. If this has already been removed then without a solder plug passing all the way through then heat on one side will not transfer well enough to melt both sides.
Solder removing braid can be used on both sides to open up the holes.
twin leg components can be removed one end at a time.
Multi legged components usually need the legs snipped and each lead removed one at a time.
If one land is bigger than it's partner then heat the bigger land side to allow the solder to melt.
with plated through holes the heat transferrs more easily through to the other side and allows the sucker to remove the excess solder.
With drilled holes the heat can only transfer down the old component leg. If this has already been removed then without a solder plug passing all the way through then heat on one side will not transfer well enough to melt both sides.
Solder removing braid can be used on both sides to open up the holes.
twin leg components can be removed one end at a time.
Multi legged components usually need the legs snipped and each lead removed one at a time.
If one land is bigger than it's partner then heat the bigger land side to allow the solder to melt.
Don't rule out a second soldering iron (cheapo) and a third hand to remove a component.
The "easiest" way of removing a component is not to... check twice... solder once.
There are a zillion ways to remove a component... really, you'll just have learn them the hard way. What is most important is the PCB. Here's where newbies screw up.
0) Clip the leads close to the board and suck out the remainder... components are cheap... boards aren't.
1) Don't tug on the components until the solder is melted.
2) Don't leave your iron on any joint for more than 5 seconds (a very general rule... put your stopwatches away guys).
3) Be patient, if you are "walking" a component out by heatng one leg at a time, allow 10 or 15 seconds between "steps" for the board to cool. It's pretty easy to rip the copper right off the board once you get it hot enough.
4) Triple check components with more than 3 legs before you solder... they are HELL to remove.
5) Buy a GOOD solder sucker like this .
The "easiest" way of removing a component is not to... check twice... solder once.
There are a zillion ways to remove a component... really, you'll just have learn them the hard way. What is most important is the PCB. Here's where newbies screw up.
0) Clip the leads close to the board and suck out the remainder... components are cheap... boards aren't.
1) Don't tug on the components until the solder is melted.
2) Don't leave your iron on any joint for more than 5 seconds (a very general rule... put your stopwatches away guys).
3) Be patient, if you are "walking" a component out by heatng one leg at a time, allow 10 or 15 seconds between "steps" for the board to cool. It's pretty easy to rip the copper right off the board once you get it hot enough.
4) Triple check components with more than 3 legs before you solder... they are HELL to remove.
5) Buy a GOOD solder sucker like this .
Attachments
My latest technicue is called the heat and tap.... heat the solder and tap the board on the desk in a direction that will propell the solder away from the board... one or 2 goes and you can normaly pry the pin away from whatever solder still wants to grab on with your fingernail, turn board over slip screwdriver under component, drag soldering iron over all the top pins (might have to add solde rto get them all flowing at the same time) while applying leverage on the screwdriver.... et voila wouldnt do it on a delicate board.. but its better than sliced bread for my homebrew doublesideds....
read carefully...
Tools required
sodering iron, desoldering pump, small nose plier
Method
First soder all the pins wit good enough solder so that heat transfer is fast.
Hold the board in component up position which u wish to remove.
Heat a pin with sldering iron and as soon as u see the other(copper) side solder melt, use the desoldering pump in upside down position to suck the solder.
This happens very well if the suction is done immediately AFTER REMOVAL of the iron.
Repeat for all the pins of the component.
Keep the iron aside.
Some of the holes will be clean and u can see through. For these holes do as follows
These pins will be held by a little solder especially where the pin touches the hole wall.
With the help of the nose plier, bend the pin over the holding solder and straighten it back. This wil break lose the pin from the solder. Now check whether the pin is lose and free.
Repeat for all seethrough pins.
For other stubborn pins start from top.
After losening ALL the pins, take out the component.
It's a childs play LOL
Gajanan Phadte
Tools required
sodering iron, desoldering pump, small nose plier
Method
First soder all the pins wit good enough solder so that heat transfer is fast.
Hold the board in component up position which u wish to remove.
Heat a pin with sldering iron and as soon as u see the other(copper) side solder melt, use the desoldering pump in upside down position to suck the solder.
This happens very well if the suction is done immediately AFTER REMOVAL of the iron.
Repeat for all the pins of the component.
Keep the iron aside.
Some of the holes will be clean and u can see through. For these holes do as follows
These pins will be held by a little solder especially where the pin touches the hole wall.
With the help of the nose plier, bend the pin over the holding solder and straighten it back. This wil break lose the pin from the solder. Now check whether the pin is lose and free.
Repeat for all seethrough pins.
For other stubborn pins start from top.
After losening ALL the pins, take out the component.
It's a childs play LOL
Gajanan Phadte
If you're going to be doing it often enough, an investment in a desoldering station is worth it.
There's one type that blows controlled temp hot air over the work (you can change the flange to fit the outline of the component's legs) - works for IC's with centipede-like legs...
And, China-made worstations are very inexpensive nowadays. I have one and it works well enough...
Cheers!
There's one type that blows controlled temp hot air over the work (you can change the flange to fit the outline of the component's legs) - works for IC's with centipede-like legs...
And, China-made worstations are very inexpensive nowadays. I have one and it works well enough...
Cheers!
If you cannot afford / won't invest in a vacuum desoldering station, the best method is the solder wick or braid- just make sure you get a good quality ( some are crap). Use a good quality snipper, snip off all the legs, and desolder one pin at a time. Allow the board to cool between each pin. Sometimes you need to apply fresh solder to a joint to make the wick work correctly.
The tap method, - or gravity, might work, but then you need to heat all the pins simultaneously, which need a lot of special bits.....
Even with vacuum stations, you need to have the correct bit diameter, and worn bits can score the board, as you often need to wiggle the pin to fee it and get the solder out.
The tap method, - or gravity, might work, but then you need to heat all the pins simultaneously, which need a lot of special bits.....
Even with vacuum stations, you need to have the correct bit diameter, and worn bits can score the board, as you often need to wiggle the pin to fee it and get the solder out.
djQUAN said:
yep.cost is around Php1500 to 1800 (aus $40-50) for the hot air station alone and a bit more for a unit with a built in contorlled temp iron.
I already have a soldering station (Hakko OEM - made in china though)
the price is not bad. thank you for the tip.
I forgot to ask. what brand? and maybe a shop name?
the brands may differ but internal construction and spare parts are very similar. no store to recommend but just look and ask around in shops that sell spare parts for celfones if they sell them too. there would actually be more in Quiapo. just a little more walk from raon. you could actually get SMD led's real cheap if you buy in quantity. I do and use them for all sorts of stuff. spare parts for celfones may be of some use to projects like the power switches etc.
I do and use them for all sorts of stuff. spare parts for celfones may be of some use to projects like the power switches etc.clem_o said:
I have aoyue soldering station. from my research, they seem to be the OEM of hakko.
ps. I remember alexan from my college days since we had to buy parts for our experiments there.
ps. do they sell spare parts as well? I was stupid to break my aoyue soldering iron but some repair was done. But it would be nice to have a spare. I'm also after tips.
Thank you.
Howdy jarthel,
Frankly I'm not sure - the shop sells oddities such as components to make a 'pay per song' karaoke system - from the player to the coin acceptor, along with Konzert PA amplifiers and well, the Aoyue soldering /desoldering stations.
But there are several shops all along raon that would carry the stuff you are looking for, am sure of that since some time ago someone I know actually bought a soldering iron for the Aoyue, and I was able to buy some original Hakko tips as well.
Interestingly, the difference between the Aoyue and the Hakko (I have the latter), is the connector genders from the soldering station to the iron have been exchanged. The Aoyue tips are softer as well and do not stand up to continuous use as the Hakko.
Cheers
Frankly I'm not sure - the shop sells oddities such as components to make a 'pay per song' karaoke system - from the player to the coin acceptor, along with Konzert PA amplifiers and well, the Aoyue soldering /desoldering stations.
But there are several shops all along raon that would carry the stuff you are looking for, am sure of that since some time ago someone I know actually bought a soldering iron for the Aoyue, and I was able to buy some original Hakko tips as well.
Interestingly, the difference between the Aoyue and the Hakko (I have the latter), is the connector genders from the soldering station to the iron have been exchanged. The Aoyue tips are softer as well and do not stand up to continuous use as the Hakko.
Cheers
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