Excuse a first posting on what for many of you may be a tired subject - I've searched the archives here, but can't quite nail what I'm looking for... 
My first halting steps on the DIY path are component upgrades in a Musical Fidelity X-DacV3, amongst these I'd like to upgrade the analogue output op-amps: NE5532APs
I've seen countless assorted recommendations, but checking the data sheets of a few I notice most can cope with maximum voltages of between 12 and 22 volts, depending on model.
The MF DAC has a 24 volt power supply - though I don't know what the voltage is at the output - I'm without a meter at present
but guess I'd better play safe and assume this voltage may reach the op-amps...
With that in mind, does anyone have any recommendations for bullet-proof dual op-amps as drop-in replacements for this application?
churz, eofs
My first halting steps on the DIY path are component upgrades in a Musical Fidelity X-DacV3, amongst these I'd like to upgrade the analogue output op-amps: NE5532APs
I've seen countless assorted recommendations, but checking the data sheets of a few I notice most can cope with maximum voltages of between 12 and 22 volts, depending on model.
The MF DAC has a 24 volt power supply - though I don't know what the voltage is at the output - I'm without a meter at present
but guess I'd better play safe and assume this voltage may reach the op-amps...With that in mind, does anyone have any recommendations for bullet-proof dual op-amps as drop-in replacements for this application?
churz, eofs
Why bother possibly not considering op-amps which might actually be fine when you measure the supply? A meter is £5 these days and is an essential toolkit item.
Why do you think the PSU is 24V? op-amp supplies are specified in terms of split rails so 22V is actually a total of 44V. But is your PSU split or single-ended?
Why do you think the PSU is 24V? op-amp supplies are specified in terms of split rails so 22V is actually a total of 44V. But is your PSU split or single-ended?
richie00boy said:
Given I'm very new to this malarkey I prefer to build in plenty of over-spec "padding" in any changes I may make until such time as I understand exactly what's going on... Sure, I can, and will, wait until I have some metric results, but I imagined there was no harm asking...
No doubt, but I don't actually want to rush out and buy the first Maplins cheapie I set eyes on... Again, I'd rather understand better what will be useful to me, and make sure I don't simply have to go out and re-buy in 3 months time.
...er, because it says so...
Thanks for the warm welcome and the helpful reply.
churz, eofs
richie00boy said:I admire your considered approach
Ah, yes
so I belatedly gather: will check the voltage regulators and then have a good cry! cheers, eofs
Hi,
go ahead and buy a cheap and cheerful DMM (no bells or whistles). Look for decent accuracy on some of the DC ranges.
Do without transistor checker, frequency, continuity, capacitance, inductance,
You need ,
DC volts 2000mV to 600V
AC volts 2000mVac to 300Vac
Resistance 200r to 10M
Slightly wider ranges would be an advantage.
If and when you want to delve deeper and are prepared to budget for decent test gear, then decide what kind of test equipment is needed to suit your intended purposes.
go ahead and buy a cheap and cheerful DMM (no bells or whistles). Look for decent accuracy on some of the DC ranges.
Do without transistor checker, frequency, continuity, capacitance, inductance,
You need ,
DC volts 2000mV to 600V
AC volts 2000mVac to 300Vac
Resistance 200r to 10M
Slightly wider ranges would be an advantage.
If and when you want to delve deeper and are prepared to budget for decent test gear, then decide what kind of test equipment is needed to suit your intended purposes.
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