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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Racine, Wisconsin
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Look in the hardware store. it's used to clean walls before painting.
Remember when detergents were sold and advertised as "contains no phosphates"? Well, it ain't that kinda' party. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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An autobody /auto paint supply store will carry an already diluted - ready to go solution. Or a well stocked general paint store.
If you do go to a chemical supply, you won't need much. It's possible they sell pre-dilluted stuff. I'm not sure , I think it's 10-20% acid ---->to the water, brushed on, kept wet (keep re-brushing) for about 5 minutes, rinsed thoroughly. You will know it has been etched when the water no longer "beads" on the metal. Always pour acid into water...not the other way around. Why?? not sure, I assume that having full strength acid out in the open is just too dangerous, but when adding acid to the water, it is instantly dilluted, and therefore safer to work around. =RR= |
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Arizona badlands
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Quote:
Quoted from a printmaking lab on using nitric acid for etching zinc plates. I suppose if you are clumsy and pour the water into the acid to quickly it could splash out and start etching your flesh as well. Stan |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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There is a high chance of spatter when pouring water into acid.
__________________
Be sure your foil hat has a good low impedance ground. |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Racine, Wisconsin
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You really shoulda oughta pour the acid in the watah...
Chem 100 |
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