Interconnect and Speaker wire comparrison, what do I want?

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I have been using 9259 Belden Coaxial as of late... I considered 89259 because it is easier to work with, but I have also read about oxidation problems.

I want some thing that sounds as good, because this stuff is nothing short of amazing. If I attach cheap bananna ends on it from radioshack I loose significant quality is sound.....

http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=28_108_45&products_id=445

and

http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=28_108_29&products_id=528

have been two considerations....

What do you guys think of the

http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=28_108_29&products_id=248

for AC power wire?

Any suggestions are welcome. I plan to use Bullet copper plugs, onto Exodus high copper content RCA jacks.

Parts connextion has...

D.H. Labs BL-1 Silver Sonic 20 awg balanced interconnect cable

and also D.H. labs ST-100 Silver Hybrid Speaker Cable, OFC + silver plated OFC, 14 awg. speaker wire

Percy has...

Canare Star Quad L4E6S that I looked at as well.



Who sells nice IEC chassis mounts with the fuse holders/switch ? I have been trouble finding any that are not the ordinary $1.95 ones.
 
The cables you currently use are as good as those most people here use. I use power cord for speaker cable, and I'm not alone. I would feel like a criminal if I recommended some high-price bling. And don't go spend some money on some AC jack. Look at the jacks on most ultra high-price gear. They are standard jacks.
 
I've had really nice success with simple bulk guitar cable for interconnects and cheap extension cables (think large gauge garden extension cables) for power cable.

Speaking of power cables, remember that your PS should filter any junk that gets on the line. The power cable going to your electronics will do nothing to clean up the junk that is in your house's power. Even if you have a signal conditioner, the most important factor in choosing a good power cable is whether it conducts. :D Seriously, all the Jazz about power cables affecting sound is rather impossible. Save your cash and don't believe the hype. Look at physics instead.
 
analog_sa lighten up on destroyer. He had a legitimate question.

My experience is that cables do make a difference, but up to a point. I would never pay $100 or up for a set of interconnects or speaker cables. But I have spent $25-$50 on wire and connectors, invested an hour or so in time, and have been very satisfied with the results.

I am very thankful of all of the kindness and help I've gotten from the members here, and can't remember someone looking dwn their nose at the quality of the question I asked.
 
I started a thread once about IC: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=36322&highlight= but ended up buying Cardas Golden Reference. Although I paid $600 on used market, I don't regret it at all ;)

To phn: I have alredy invested all the money I could in electronics and speakers, so I thought it might be interesting to try expensive IC for a change ;)

I also described a cheap way to make pretty good speaker cable: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17631&highlight=

Although I'm using something better now, it is still copper foil based and the difference is not that big: http://www.walkeraudio.com/speaker_cables.htm

As to the power cord, I bought 6 ft of DH Labs Power Plus Reference Series cord from Partsconnexion and terminated it myself. With the amps it seems marginally better than 14ga regular cord but I wouldn't loose sleep over it.

The power cord I'm using with a DAC is based on Audio Quest Type 4 speaker cable and it performs quite well. The difference is also more substantial that with the amps.
 
I've been messing with speaker cables recently. For some (several in fact ;) years I used the old Straight Wire Teflon 12, Anthony Cordesman Class A in the '80's. I had always been very happy with them, went well with Magnepans, and were a noticeable step up from Monster. Length was 20 feet. The new speaker project led to a lingering feeling that the cables should be looked into.

I used Michael Percy's wire, as he has more choice than I'd ever take advantage of. I tried the Vampire cast copper monocrystal wire, and the Cardas hookup, both Cu and Ag. I found the Vampire harsh, a quite unexpected result. It turns out the woofer and midrange did better with heavier gauge; and that I preferred the Cardas to the Vampire. Cardas high end still a tad rough with the Cu. Wanted silver, smoother, warmer, more natural, and yet more detailed, can't afford it. HermanV suggested moving the crossover to the amp end, and using silver just for the tweeter, and considerably finer gauge than the mid wanted.

Current prototype; 2 X 9.5 ga Cardas Cu for the woofer. 5 X 11.5 for the midrange, arranged as a ribbon, -+-+-, and borrowed silver (older Homegrown silver 16 ga braided silver for the tweeter.) Natural low level detail (NOT "etched" ) emerged, an utterly unexpected result, as all I expected was a somewhat cleaner treble. As I save up for it, I expect to make a 5 strand tweeter cable, using the Cardas 21 gauge silver.

If I had shorter runs, (currently 18 and 12 feet), and if the mid were not so happy wallowing in power, I would stay with conventional biwiring, Cardas Cu for the woofer, and something on the order of 14-16 ga. Silver for the mid/tweet.

This is by no means the results of a comprehensive study, but just something I did to avoid paying for commercial cables of equivalent quality.

For interconnects, I have had good luck with the Vampire 800C connectors; I have not tried the Eichman Bullets or the WBT Next Gen, or the Cardas RCA's. For speaker connections, make as many pendant as possible. Then the Cardas less expensive clamp that accepts lugs. Based on the Jung Pooge articles, and military specs, I'll be using Rhodium. Not sure if it makes a difference sonically, but I'd expect the connections to last longer without cleaning.

I hope this has given you some ideas.

Assoc'd equip: CAL Tercet Mk IV transport, Mark Levinson 36 AD converter, homemade Cardas silver IC's feeding to attenuator/summer for one summed mono channel Bryston 4BST. Speaker is Scanspeak 99000 Revelator, AT (Skaaning) 4" Quenze mid, and Scanspeak 25W woofer. Great care is taken with diffraction-free cabinet, with mid and tweet in rounded, felt-covered "mountain". (Drivers for unit two mounted and running in as we speak. Stereo! Coming soon to a home near me.)
 
Don't see edit button, sorry. I should have mentioned that the Cardas copper is not solderable casually. Michael Percy's suggestion that a 60 Watt, 800 degree iron with a 3/16 or 1/4 inch chisel tip or a solder pot is required should be taken to heart. It takes some time to get the charred insulation out of the joint, but it must be done. The Cardas solder works well (no surprise), but it does take time and patience.

More edit. I see in the post above, I implied that the woofer "preferred" the Cardas. Nah, it just wanted more metal, more metal. The Cardas over the Vampire did make a difference in the midrange though, and the difference was greater yet in the highs.
 
Peter, I do not doubt what you say. But I do think many newbies jump on cables when there are so much else they could spend the money on.

I use power cord for my speakers. They aren't bad. But they have a lot more shortcomings than the power cord. If the rest of my sound system could reproduce music as neutral and noiseless as the power cord, it would have been the best system on the planet. I think the power cord is the strongest link in my system, and the speakers the weakest.
 
phn said:
I think the power cord is the strongest link in my system, and the speakers the weakest.
That is hilarious, but true for me too! It will take a few more years of adding quality equipment to even get to the point of worrying about anything other than generic speaker cable.

I would much rather save the $600 and buy a new set of drivers. If I ever get to Peter's level of filling out every nook and cranny of my system, I may change my mind, but that point is still a few years off.
 
The original poster seems to feel that as a result of upgrading to the Belden and his experience with the banana jacks that he has not reached the system's limit, and believes that he would benefit from improving his cables further.

Since this IS the DIY forum, given the original post, I'd suggest experimenting. Crossover component improvements might be another avenue for improvement at reasonable cost.

I have never messed about with power cords, and have no advice. But interconnects are not very expensive to try, especially if you reuse the connectors. Depending on the length, speaker cables can be quite a bit more expensive, but experimenting with short runs with the speaker out of position can cut the cost of experimentation quite a bit.
 
The best place to spend money on cabling is at the record store. By some CD's, Vinyl whatever you like.

Or save up and buy better speakers... ALLWAYS the weakest link in ALL systems.

Gold plated RCA's are nice because connectors rot and gold doesn't... but the pure copper ones are crap... the RCA design requires springiness for a reliable connection... copper makes a lousy spring. Somehow, all these brain surgeons who have reinvented the RCA connector seemed to have skipped mechanical engineering school.

Except for magic rocks and a few other things; expensive power cords are the ONLY thing more ridiculous than expensive speaker cables...

$600 cables on a chip amp??? What next??? A chimpanzee with lipstick and stockings is still a chimpanzee!

:headbash:
 
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