Vibration Isolators - Air, Magnets or other materials

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I like the tennis-ball idea

And I have not yet tested any damping on my things.
Most equipment I have, has feets with rubber.

Also there is some cellplastic? used to put around
water-pipes. For to isolate, keep the heat. In the heating system (or warmwater?)in a house.
They have a slice opening, so you can put it around the pipes.
I have thought of using these, also cut into halves.
You can cut them into desirable lenght
and put them under your devices.

What would be the ideal pattern, I do not know.
Maybe they could damp the enclosure resonances
as well as decoupling from the base.
 
diyAudio Senior Member
Joined 2002
LEVITATED.

Hello,

One thing keeps bugging me though:

We now have a platform that achieves near perfect isolation from the environment.
But unless all other components are isolated in the same manner the mere presence of the linking interconnects is going to spoil this since they will carry the vibration to and fro the rest of the chain.

The only viable solution would then be to put everything linked on the same type of support and dress these links very carefully.
Interconnect,powercords, the lot.

Or,would it be sufficient to isolate the most sensitive ones?

I wonder.

Thanks for the enlightening contribution,Danny.

Rgds,;)
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Re: I like the tennis-ball idea

halojoy said:
Also there is some cellplastic? used to put around
water-pipes. For to isolate, keep the heat. In the heating system (or warmwater?)in a house.
They have a slice opening, so you can put it around the pipes.
I have thought of using these, also cut into halves.
You can cut them into desirable lenght
and put them under your devices.

I had never thot of using those... they might not be able to support the weight thou (squash)

dave
 
diyAudio Senior Member
Joined 2002
ISOLATED AN COLD.

Hi,

Also there is some cellplastic? used to put around

What you mean is polyurethane foam or similar material.

This works great under lighter gear.
It actually works along the same lines as the damping materials used inside LS cabinets to mimmick a larger internal volume and impede airborne energy converting it in to heat along the way.

The trick is to not compress the cells so the virtually infinite and amorphous structure is maintained.
It may pay off to put a slab of lightweight wood on top as to not cause local indents in the foam.

One problem with this is that it eventually does cave in under the weight,but for the moderate cost involved you can easily replace it with a fresh cut-out and the one you replaced will tend to regain its' original shape much the same way a matrass does.


Cheers,:)
 
diyAudio Senior Member
Joined 2002
SCRAPYARD MAN

Hey Eric,

I think that's your plundering Viking blood talking.:D

Valve springs do have rather high f no?

What you could recycle though are those smaller gasfilled shocks as used to lift these boards in the back of a hatchback car.
(can't think of a name for those).
You know where the kids throw there stuff on so it's out of harms' way and such.

Mount these at the tops of a Y-shaped rigid structure to put the player on and you'll have yourself a nice "el-cheapo" iso-plat.

Cheers, :cool:
 
Works For Me....

The gas struts have too much stiction in the seals I reckon.
With springs under my quite heavy vavle reciever, I am getting a 2 Hz or so rocking when I give it a shove.
Under my workshop speakers using heavier springs I am getting a 2 Hz or so rocking motion when I give them a shove.
I have not tried fitting damping to them - perhaps a chunk of foam pushed into the middle would work dandy, perhaps not.
I like the sound with spring mounting, and find my systems go louder and harder, and stay cleaner and more musical.

Eric, The Trendsetter.
 
halojoy said:
fdegrove:
".. it eventually does cave in under the weight"


I see.
Seems like a big part of the trick,
is to find the right quality of the isolation material,
in relation to the weight it is going to carry.

Yes, using suitable springs (coil or magnetic or other) the mass/spring stiffness ratio determines the degree of isolation and resonance frequency.
With the valve springs I mention, the vibration isolation is such that for equipment, if the shelf is banged with the fist, or buzzing like crazy due to speakers running loud, virtually zero vibration can be felt on the underside of the amplifier.
Also with the speakers running loud, very little vibration is felt on the table top underneath them, even though the speaker cabinets are buzzing like crazy.
These springs are machined flat and square top and bottom, so are perfectly stable.

I find this is a cheap and very effective soloution, and better than mounting techniques that I have tried previously.

As Frank mentions, a simple slab or blocks of foam rubber, can work quite well too, and is equally cheap.
Indeed this has saved me the embarrassment of a skipping cdp at live shows during intermissions.

Eric.
 
diyAudio Senior Member
Joined 2002
IMPRESSED.

Looks to me like the real contributor was Pjotr in this thread. There always seams to be someone with an EE degree in the bunch.

Math is still impressing people?
How hard can it be to impress people with something that can be culled out of nowhere ?
I'm always impressed by formulae,you can easily paste them in from any net source and they are infallable.
Most impressive,great contribution...

From understanding these you can really tell what an isolating platform is going to bring you.
I'm still impressed.
Then again,most of us never went to school.
We don't know anything about anything and have never heard about magnetism.
We are all deaf too,so you better don't waste your precious time.

Nah,don't worry.You earned a price for the most intelligent post ever.:cool:

Cheers,;)
 
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