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#41 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Use a buffer in front of the attenuator. Alternatively using a higher output impedance will bring it up to a much more managable level. A value of 800R to 4K output impedance resluts in generally acceptable values, and sounds great. The values you used are quite low.
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#42 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
When I say integrated REV C, what I mean is power amp and attenuator in one box. no preamp. Same REV C circuit. I think we could arrange for you to get a PIC when we get things into production. For now, if you are wanting to try this soon, you might see if you can etch the programmer, (actually you could build it on protoboard) and order some for yourself. Cheers! Russ
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#43 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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I looked at those programmer links, where does the chip go to be programmed, or is the chips on the boards the ones being programmed?... I'm thinking it was the processor chip on there...
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#44 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
The spot on the PCB for the socket is where you put the PIC to be programmed.
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#45 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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I see, thanks, feel more confident now... have one or 2 projects that are 99% done, which I will complete first, but pics seems to be a usefull skill... even saw a flyer a few weeks ago by a private guy that teaches people how to program pics.... been years since I worked with any programming language... think Visual Basic 4 was the last programing package I worked on.
Think I'll go scratch my old hardware pile for a video card or something to rip a D-sub connector from in the mean time. |
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#46 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Holland, The Hague
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Quote:
Hope you will also offer an input selection (partly for balanced, partly for single ended) Great work.
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Is that all there is? |
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#47 |
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diyAudio Member
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I think I am on the verge of ordering PCBs so I want to run the design past you folks so that I can be sure you are getting what you need (and most of what you want)
First the nitty gritty: 1) The PCB is designed for through hole G6K relays, and either through hole or SMD(1206) resistors. 2) Controller is designed to accept input from a single 5-20K potentiometer which is read by the uC's ADC to set the volume. It of course, is not in the signal path. 3) I left .1" ceneterd pads on the controller board so that those who wish can easily create their own firmware(or use mine) to drive auxiliary features. The possibilities here include: LCD display, IR reciever, rotary encoder, mute, startup delays (soft start) for relays, etc... 4) The PCBs are compact at only 1.5" x 4" and stackable (use 5/8" or so M/F standoffs). We will make alternate firmware hex files available to download on our site. Here is the attenuator PCB itself:
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#48 |
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diyAudio Member
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Here is the controller:
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#49 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Germany
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Looks great!
Will the control board be able to contorl input selection or will that be another project? |
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#50 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
The source selector we are creating (Darwin) is designed to integrate with this or the kooka, or even this + XBOSOZ.
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