ARC pre amp-modded with Kimber caps-anybody used these caps before? - diyAudio
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Old 24th October 2002, 06:33 AM   #1
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Question ARC pre amp-modded with Kimber caps-anybody used these caps before?

Hi Fellow hi fi tweakers.I recently bouht an audio research sp9 pre amp from a second hand magazine.The has had all of the caps replaced with kimber cappacitors and i am not shir if this is an upgrade or a down grade.the sound of the unit is very good but my freind who also owned an sp9 said that the original majick was missing.Anybody ever used kimber caps before,should i get the pre re modded,was thinking of some better rel multicaps etc than the ones that arc originally used.any advice would be very usefull and save me from thinking that i just bought a pig in a poke of a pre amp. Many Thanks,Ian.
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Old 24th October 2002, 09:48 AM   #2
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Default Kimber caps

I have used the Kimber and they were quite good. I might put some money in other areas instead of replacing very good caps with expensive different caps. Resoldering the solder joints with 4% siver solder, cleaning the jacks, and resistor and diode updates wound be a be good starting point. Your friends magic statement is suspect as hundreds of variables are involved and deciding the cap change is the whole story is pretty silly. New electrolytics are a good idea if the preamp has a few years on it.

Any SP-9 schematics out there?
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Old 24th October 2002, 01:23 PM   #3
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Slightly off topic...

Fred,

Resoldering all joints with 4 % silver solder? Is the difference big using say 2 or 1.5 % solder or is there any particular solder that is outstanding compared to ordinary MultiCore LMP 1.5 % (which is what I have)?

/UrSv
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Old 24th October 2002, 03:03 PM   #4
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Default Resoldering all joints

That's a though one. I like the Allpha metals 4% silver lead free but differences are subtle depending on many factors like surface prep, soldering iron size, ect. There is also more to the solder joint than silver content. I often pretin larger parts with 2% silver with lead and tin solder. The lead really help wetting on older parts with oxidation. In the case of pre soldered joints a would use a solder sucker and retouch the joints with 4% silver lead free solder. With virgin joints I might pretin with 2% silver with lead and follow with the 4% lead free silver solder. Quality of the flux is also very important as well suface prep and technique. This is a learned art and I will not get authoritive on it. Practice, experiment, listen, and learn by doing on this one I am afraid. Lead free solder require higher temperature and is not practical on many things like speaker wire and RCA jacks for any but the well equiped and experienced And I often end useing two irons in these cases. Temp controlled irons and different tip sizes are a must for many soldering jobs with silver solder. I also use a solder pot on occasion. not ihave raised 10 questions for eveyone that I answered......

Fred
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Old 24th October 2002, 04:06 PM   #5
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Default SOLDERING

Quote:
not ihave raised 10 questions for eveyone that I answered......
And that's how it is expected to be.

Soldering is an art all of its own.
People can give tips but eventually it's a thing requiring lots of practice.
Knowing your iron helps too.
Also I always spunge away any residual rosin.

To me the nicest job I have seen was on an AITOS OTL amp by mr
Cabell.
Wrirewrapping + soldering you could hardly detect by the naked eye!
A masterpiece.
He uses leadfree high sliver content solder too,so you must be doing something right Fred.

Regards,

P.S.Lovely lady you have.
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Old 24th October 2002, 10:37 PM   #6
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Thumbs up great advice fred,thankyou.

Thankyou for the brilliant advice Fred,very usefull.I will deffinately look at changing the components you mentioned.
Am looking at trying to mod the amp as best as possible seeing that it has already been hacked at.Was thinking of taking out the balance,selector,switches as i hardly ever use them and have read many articles on the advantage of this.Cool imfo regarding the soldering tip,thanks to other people with there questions aswell,glad that there are experinced audiophiles out there who reall know there subject.
Many Thanks,
Ian
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Old 25th October 2002, 12:38 AM   #7
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Default ARC MODDING

Hi Croft,

Careful with the balance controls,they're probably calculated (factored in) for the entire circuits' behaviour.
Just try to bypass them fist before you junk them.

Cheers,
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Old 25th October 2002, 12:40 AM   #8
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Fred Dieckmann

I had a blind faith in the expensive different film caps because I was led by
kind of ill info. But, no more.

As regards the soldering, the pretinning of the leads is a good value I have
to employ. O I use the 4% silver and 96% tin solder. Do not ask me why.
I do not like to blame myself again. By the way, for tin soldering, I use about
350 degC of iron tip temp. In this case, I always wonder how long I could keep
the hot tip on the leads of transistors without giving the transistors damage.

Could you suggest any idea?

JH
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Old 25th October 2002, 12:43 AM   #9
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hello JH,

What happened?
And what are you using now if I may ask?

Quote:
I had a blind faith in the expensive different film caps because I was led by
Rgds,
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Old 25th October 2002, 01:17 AM   #10
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Hi Frank

In certain area, the expensive nice film caps might
be necessary.

I use large size of electrolytic caps for power supply,
with the nice bypass film caps and without. I do not
hear any considerable difference in the sound.

I use large enough sizes of input and output electrolytic
coupling caps for my amplifiers, with the nice bypass
film caps and without. I do not sense any considerable
difference in the sound.

For my speakers (and my old tube pre amp), I tried both
expensive and cheap caps, but I could not distinguish
which one is considerably better.

Probably, I am too generous with the sound to make
the honest difference.

My point is whether the result/investment has any value
or not. I am not saying all nice caps are unconditionally
12S34H56I78T90S.

JH
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