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Old 19th November 2001, 06:20 AM   #11
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Drilling doesn't work well with sheet metal, you might end up with a hole which is not round especially if it's a big hole. Better to use a proper cutter or a hole punch.
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Old 19th November 2001, 02:01 PM   #12
fcel is offline fcel  United States
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Richard,
That's a very good idea of making your own label for the front panel. I can draw it up on Acad, mirror it and then plot it out on Mylar, then I'm done! One question though, how do you glue it to the face plate without making a mess underneath the Mylar (it's clearly visible).
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Old 19th November 2001, 09:54 PM   #13
remp is offline remp  New Zealand
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I use the pots switches and connectors to hold the front panel on and sometimes very small nice looking nuts and bolts at the corners.
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Old 30th November 2001, 02:51 AM   #14
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I've also used Par Metal cases with success. I haven't tried it -- yet -- but there's a great site, http://www.onlinemetals.com , that sells aluminum, copper, brass and other metals in various form. I'm thinking about constructing a box with, e.g., a copper or brass top plate and aluminum sides (using channel pieces) and bottom. Has anyone tried this?
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Old 30th November 2001, 03:10 AM   #15
fcel is offline fcel  United States
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So far I have not read anybody mentioning about using glass for the top plate. Who does custom glass cutting? For power amp, one would probably want some kind of vent holes on the top.
I'm surprise that I haven't seen too many upscale audio company (except some pre-amps) that uses glass (strong glass) for the top plate to show off the interior. To me, some of the power amps, like Pass amps, looks absolutely beautiful in the inside!
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Old 30th November 2001, 03:23 AM   #16
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Glass is dirt cheap.... just go to any glass provider and give them the specs; they can do the cutting. I once needed several pieces for a HV terminal standoff and didn't spend more than $5.

DRILLING glass, OTOH, is a whole different story. You need speciall bits (designed for ceramic, glass and the like) with a tip that looks a lot like an arrow. About $5 each ... not to mention the patience needed.
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Old 30th November 2001, 05:02 AM   #17
jteef is offline jteef  United States
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glass might be neat. I for one do not like the look of electrical parts though. That said, I did use 3/16" clear lexan for the back panel of my leach amp. I am not quite finished with the enclosure because the guy who built my chassis gave me unfinished top and bottom plates and in my amateur attempt to finish them i messed them up. so I am waiting until he can bring me the proper tools and polishes to do it right before i finish. the lexan is pretty easy to work with if you've got power tools that can cut a straight line. it scratches easy, but if you cover it in masking tape it protects really well until you are finished working on it. I have drilled holes in the lexan and sort of flush mounted wide angle blue led's. it gives a pretty neat effect.

a tip i will suggest is dont get anything stainless steel with the intention of modifiying it at a later date. The chassis i had built looks really good and all, but good god was it a PITA to work with. went through about 5 cobalt drill bits for a total of about 30 holes and ended up scratching it where one of them broke.

I have thought about using a tinted/smoked plexiglas for the top panel so you couldn't see inside until a light was turned on. glass would be a lot better for this because it wouldn't sag in the middle.

I am really anxious to complete my leach amp and photograph it.

jt
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Old 30th November 2001, 03:15 PM   #18
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jteef beat me to it. Yes, Plexiglas/Lexan/whatever works well, and is easy to work with.
Don't neglect the idea of using it for a front, as opposed to a top. Power LEDs etc. shine nicely through the plastic without even having to drill holes. You can paint the backside to mask anything you don't want seen.
(Can you say McIntosh?)

Grey
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Old 1st December 2001, 01:52 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by GRollins
jteef beat me to it. Yes, Plexiglas/Lexan/whatever works well, and is easy to work with.
Don't neglect the idea of using it for a front, as opposed to a top. Power LEDs etc. shine nicely through the plastic without even having to drill holes. You can paint the backside to mask anything you don't want seen.
(Can you say McIntosh?)
Grey
Hughes & Kettner (guitar and bass amp manufacturers) use a plexiglass front "engraved" with the company logo that is lit up using blue LEDS... looks quite neat
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