On board Connectors

bigphil · 16th December 2005, 04:35 AM

I am trying to repair a pioneer reciever, but I'm having problems getting it back together because the pins on the board connectors for the ribbon cables were one-time use only. I'd like to get some proper connectors put in, but the funny thing is the configuration is staggered, and it seems today's standard is for the pins to be lined up in equal and even rows. I can't find these staggered configurations anywhere. If anyone has any ideas I'd really love your help. Here is a pic, so you can understand what I'm talking about.

Here is an example of the style of connector I'd like to replace them with. Ones that don't break everytime you need to disconnect something

Stocker · 16th December 2005, 05:24 AM

depending on the spacing, it could be regular 15-pin Dsub. What is the scale?

/edit:
Oh yes, you could put a pigtail cable in there as a last resort. Terminate with whatever connector you like.

jc2 · 16th December 2005, 07:34 PM

Are these connectors for the flat flex cable? If so depending on the spacing of the pins/conductors on the cable this link might work.

http://www.molex.com/product/ffc/5597.html

I_Forgot · 16th December 2005, 09:49 PM

Are you sure those are one-time connectors? I just repaired my CD player and had to disconnect 3 ribbons by pulling them out of the slots in the connectors. Before I pulled any out completely I worked at one a little, then pushed it back to make sure I would be able to get the back in. All the ribbons went back in just fine.

The ribbons in my CD player were a stiff sort of affair, with the ends that plug into the connectors stripped only in the areas where the connector would make contact.

I_F

DSP_Geek · 16th December 2005, 10:40 PM

Some ribbon cables come with a molded stiffer end which plugs into a connector. These connectors often have a locking provision - look for a lip near the top of the connector and pull upwards gently - this might sometimes pop up about a millimeter. Then you can plug in the ribbon and push down on the connector to lock it in again.

bigphil · 17th December 2005, 02:19 AM

Thanks for the responses guys.

jc2, your connectors almost work... but the spacing between the two rows on my connectors is 5mm, not 2mm... other than that the staggered setup was correct.

I wish I could get them back in. Around 10% of the connectors on the board had re-connectable normal connectors, the rest are definately one time use, ruined once u pull the wire out. I'm going to pigtail some connectors on like Stocker suggested.

Here is a picture of the connector. The one on the right has the top locking plate still on, the one on the left shows the way the pins lock-in the wire. Once you try to pull out the wire, the force tears the locking pins out of place, and there is no mechanism on the connector to un-lock the pins. By far the worst design I have ever encountered.

16th December 2005, 04:35 AM	#1
bigphil diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Toronto	On board Connectors I am trying to repair a pioneer reciever, but I'm having problems getting it back together because the pins on the board connectors for the ribbon cables were one-time use only. I'd like to get some proper connectors put in, but the funny thing is the configuration is staggered, and it seems today's standard is for the pins to be lined up in equal and even rows. I can't find these staggered configurations anywhere. If anyone has any ideas I'd really love your help. Here is a pic, so you can understand what I'm talking about. Here is an example of the style of connector I'd like to replace them with. Ones that don't break everytime you need to disconnect something

16th December 2005, 05:24 AM	#2
Stocker diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Austin	depending on the spacing, it could be regular 15-pin Dsub. What is the scale? /edit: Oh yes, you could put a pigtail cable in there as a last resort. Terminate with whatever connector you like. __________________ Jesus loves you.

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16th December 2005, 07:34 PM	#3
jc2 diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Atlanta, Georgia	Are these connectors for the flat flex cable? If so depending on the spacing of the pins/conductors on the cable this link might work. http://www.molex.com/product/ffc/5597.html

16th December 2005, 09:49 PM	#4
I_Forgot diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Phoenix, Az.	Are you sure those are one-time connectors? I just repaired my CD player and had to disconnect 3 ribbons by pulling them out of the slots in the connectors. Before I pulled any out completely I worked at one a little, then pushed it back to make sure I would be able to get the back in. All the ribbons went back in just fine. The ribbons in my CD player were a stiff sort of affair, with the ends that plug into the connectors stripped only in the areas where the connector would make contact. I_F

16th December 2005, 10:40 PM	#5
DSP_Geek diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Santa Cruz, California	Some ribbon cables come with a molded stiffer end which plugs into a connector. These connectors often have a locking provision - look for a lip near the top of the connector and pull upwards gently - this might sometimes pop up about a millimeter. Then you can plug in the ribbon and push down on the connector to lock it in again.

17th December 2005, 02:19 AM	#6
bigphil diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Toronto	Thanks for the responses guys. jc2, your connectors almost work... but the spacing between the two rows on my connectors is 5mm, not 2mm... other than that the staggered setup was correct. I wish I could get them back in. Around 10% of the connectors on the board had re-connectable normal connectors, the rest are definately one time use, ruined once u pull the wire out. I'm going to pigtail some connectors on like Stocker suggested. Here is a picture of the connector. The one on the right has the top locking plate still on, the one on the left shows the way the pins lock-in the wire. Once you try to pull out the wire, the force tears the locking pins out of place, and there is no mechanism on the connector to un-lock the pins. By far the worst design I have ever encountered.