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Old 14th October 2002, 03:11 PM   #11
dorkus is offline dorkus  United States
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i believe handmade electronics (http://www.hndme.com/) has NOS holcos as well. his prices are very fair. i think all Roedersteins have steel end caps. you should also possibly consider BC resistors, i hear they sound quite nice and they are dirt cheap.
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Old 14th October 2002, 03:39 PM   #12
dice45 is offline dice45  Germany
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Default Vishay

All,



i have hear those complaints about the Vishays. My buddy Gerald Gessner als so said so for a while . But meanwhile he says, if the Vishay sounds edgy, seek the flaw elsewhere!



I have only used them in a few ocasions, but i never found them to be the source of being edgy, i agree with him. If Allen Wright reads this, i am sure he too will agree, i faintly remember he said something very similar to G.Gessner's statement.



All i can say about magnetic resistors that they make as queasy ... and ready to escape the physcal discomfort as magnetic capacitors do. G.Gessner not only agrees with me here, he extends his paranoia to magnetic lead(frame)s of semiconductors too.
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Old 14th October 2002, 08:02 PM   #13
akira is offline akira  France
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Hope it s not to off-topic.

I ve seen that Vishay has two power resistor series (RH and NH). One should be non inductive and the other one std.

Is there a big difference ? (Where can I get them ?)
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Old 15th October 2002, 03:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by dorkus
i am pretty sure people have tried the new holcos and not liked the results (i haven't yet). but you can give them a shot yourself if you're not sure.
The guys at Parts Connexion say the new Holcos sound the same as the old ones, but I guess you can't always trust them. I've been using the old Holcos a lot and never had any mechanical problem. They sounded pretty good too. The BC resistors from Digi-Key are magnetic.

I woud suggest you to try the new Holcos and compare them to old ones, even if only for curiosity. I've got both but since you'll have the test rig I'll wait for your results.

Parts Connexion is selling some tantalums as well. How about Caddock MK132?
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Old 15th October 2002, 04:52 AM   #15
dorkus is offline dorkus  United States
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i have some leftover old Holcos i can test. i can try to get the new (magnetic) ones too but most of my dealers are not going to carry it anymore. my bad on the BC, i thought they were non-magnetic. caddock MK132 will be another to test as well. should i compare to TF020 too?

what's the difference between Vishay S102 and VSH types? they are both bulk foil but the latter is 1/3rd the price...

i think i will just get a 12-position rotary switch, so might as well test 12 resistors. here is the current suggested lineup:

1. Roederstein MK4 (old standby)
2. Holco H4 (non-magnetic)
3. Holco H4 (magnetic)
4. BC
5. Caddock MK132
6. Caddock TF020
7. Dale RN60
8. Vishay S102
9. Mills MRB-5
10., 11. Tantalum?
12. ???

the shunt element will be a 50k Noble pot. the switch will most likely be a C&K w/silver-plated contacts, unless someone can suggest a better reasonable-cost part.

p.s. where's a good place to get the Dales?
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Old 15th October 2002, 04:59 AM   #16
dorkus is offline dorkus  United States
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Default non sequitur question...

what kind of chassis RCA jacks do you guys like to use? i know Cardas and Vampire are popular audiophile brands but i'm a cheapie. Parts Express used to have these very nice Vampire-imitation jacks - gold plated machined brass w/teflon - for just $2.69 each but they don't have them anymore. i've been hunting for a replacement but other cheap parts i've seen are far inferior in quality. someone suggested a Radio Shack part that is not in their regular catalog, but available from their Commercial Sales division. it is also $2.69 and is supposed to be a reasonable Tiffany fascimile. i may give those a shot.
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Old 15th October 2002, 08:58 AM   #17
dice45 is offline dice45  Germany
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dorkus,
forgetabout rotary switch and pot as shunt element.
Otherwise you test rotary switch and pot wipers.
Been there, done that.
solder the components in and if you have to shorten them, shorten them with 2 pieces of wire, soldered together or not.
Then you compare resistor against solder joint and now you learn how the resistor alters the sound.

Do the same test with rotary switch and with pot: compare it against a solder joint.
You will be surprised, i promise.

There is no need for ABA switching; the changes are minute and you will have to listen several hours per component anyway to track focus sustain, long-term listenability, annoyance, positive or negative body sensations etc. and to note down time when your attention went down the tubes.

If the component noticeably alters the sonics on ABA switching conmpared to anohter one, it is in the red area anyway.
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Old 15th October 2002, 10:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by dice45
dorkus,

in your resistor test you should skip Holco because of the reson you named; then old ones (TMK revoked and no longer available) were nonmagnetic and sounded very good (but a bit mushy), but the new, reliable ones are magnetic (steel end caps) and sound ugly. You do not get the old ones anymore, so why bother with them?


Any tantalum i tried out so far was very good but those made by Shinko (also revoked but Qvortrup and Borbely still have stock) and by Corning are outstandingly musical and sonically correct.

I was always very happy with non-magnetic, non-inductive wirewound ones. Mills for instance.

Also into your test belongs the Vishay metal ribbon resisitor. IMO the best resistor available.
I have just purchased some 2W Tantalums from Audionote UK
but noticed they have magnetic end caps!
Anyone know which ones these might be.

Thanks,

Terry
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Old 15th October 2002, 11:49 AM   #19
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Dice45 wrote

Quote:
forgetabout rotary switch and pot as shunt element.
Otherwise you test rotary switch and pot wipers.
While I agree on that, I'd like to ask the heretical question if a test that is comparing different resistors the intended way is a valid one at all ?
You are going to perform a test where one out of some dozens (if your signal path is minimalist !) of elements is changed.
I have a feeling that the outcome could be different for a different setup, while I can agree OTOH that it could show something like a coarse guideline.

I think the only valid statement about which component(s) is/are the BEST SUITED ones (I deliberately didn't say the BEST ones) is to compare it/them whithin the application it/they will be used for in the end.

Regards

Charles
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Old 15th October 2002, 12:13 PM   #20
protos is offline protos  Greece
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by phase_accurate
[B]Dice45 wrote



While I agree on that, I'd like to ask the heretical question if a test that is comparing different resistors the intended way is a valid one at all ? [QUOTE]


------------

Don't get discouraged dorkus. Unless all resistors are adding similar quantities of colouration then of course it will be a matter of preference in the particular set up you have. The objective here is to find which one is more transparent to the original source. The one that comes closer to a straight connection.Of course then somebody is going to pop in and say you'll have to do a double blind test for your results to be valid etc.
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