sorry for bumping old thread..
peter, how do you make the shaft sits firmly on the front panel while rotating? i still can't grasp the whole idea by reading your words..i'm planning to make an extension shaft for my potentiometer too
I'm not Peter
but I have seen bushings, somewherebut I also need to fix this for my own project
but drilling a precision hole should do
I might drill smaller
and then use a small needle file
and give a tiny amount of grease
tho, I think a press fit nylon bush would be optimal
those I haven't seen anywhere
back/forth movement is held in place by pot/extension fixing
be aware there may be both 6mm and inches equivalent, which is 6.3mm
I'm not Peter
but I also need to fix this for my own project
but drilling a precision hole should do
I might drill smaller
and then use a small needle file
and give a tiny amount of grease
tho, I think a press fit nylon bush would be optimal
those I haven't seen anywhere
back/forth movement is held in place by pot/extension fixing
be aware there may be both 6mm and inches equivalent, which is 6.3mm
thanks for the advise tinitus, i'll try that out..
Also not Peter....but I have used some brass tubing barbs as sleeves:
Double Barb Fittings for Tubing: Male Connector
Just drill it to the exact size, cut the unused barb part and press-fit or thread into the faceplate.
Brass is ideal as it is 'self-lubricating'.
I also have one pre-amp with a stainless shaft turning directly in a precision hole in the 10mm aluminum faceplate. It binds without oil/grease.
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Here is a product to extend shafts: Set Screw Stainless Steel Shaft Couplings - Stainless Steel Shaft Coupling Company. , your local building supply store should carry 1/4" round alumimium rods. As a support through a panel I would use standard nylon snap bushings. E
Thanks for the link mickeymoose. Perfect! Next time in HomeDepot I'm going to have a look around to see if they stock these , or similar couplers and small diameter tubes. Before Scott posted his link, I went in search of these extender rods and couplers. Interestingly, I could not find them at any of the parts houses I use. ie. Mouser, Newark, etc. Don't they exist as a common part - an accessory that may need to be used with pots in general? They are used in many commercial amps.
I built many a Heathkit in my day, and some even used these small hollow/solid tubes and couplers. Why are they so hard to find today? Like I said, I finally placed an order for some today via the link provided by Scott.
Rick
I built many a Heathkit in my day, and some even used these small hollow/solid tubes and couplers. Why are they so hard to find today? Like I said, I finally placed an order for some today via the link provided by Scott.
Rick
Another idea which works well for me. Look for a 60Amp (or similar)
terminal strip similar to the one in the pic.
The brass inserts are perfect as shaft couplers, with about
a 1/4" dia hole and 2 set screws!
Easily available in most parts of the world and one terminal strip yields a
lifetime supply of couplers for me.
12 Section 80 Amp Terminal Strip
The best quality inserts are found in ceramic terminal blocks.
Ceramic Terminal Blocks - High Temperature
terminal strip similar to the one in the pic.
The brass inserts are perfect as shaft couplers, with about
a 1/4" dia hole and 2 set screws!
Easily available in most parts of the world and one terminal strip yields a
lifetime supply of couplers for me.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
12 Section 80 Amp Terminal Strip
The best quality inserts are found in ceramic terminal blocks.
Ceramic Terminal Blocks - High Temperature
Here is where I picked up some a few months ago:
www.surplussales.com Shaft Couplings
Lotsa other nifty bits from the same vendor...
www.surplussales.com Shaft Couplings
Lotsa other nifty bits from the same vendor...
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Home made extension.
I just made some extensions out of 6mm aluminium rod which is filed down on both sides to fit the slot in the pot shaft. Two small holes are drilled and the extension is riveted to the pot shaft using small nails or pieces of wire as rivets. Heat- shrink covers the finished joint. It is a bit tricky to get it straight, but the finished product seems to be worth the effort. Please enjoy!
I just made some extensions out of 6mm aluminium rod which is filed down on both sides to fit the slot in the pot shaft. Two small holes are drilled and the extension is riveted to the pot shaft using small nails or pieces of wire as rivets. Heat- shrink covers the finished joint. It is a bit tricky to get it straight, but the finished product seems to be worth the effort. Please enjoy!
Attachments
Thank you Andrew, the filing of the shaft is the tricky part. It needs to be fairly symmetrical, otherwise the whole thing will wobble. It would be easier if you used a small mill.
A knurled female coupling....? Hmmm....
Well, I guess you could make one out of an internally splined plastic knob by drilling a hole for the shaft in the opposite end and then gluing the shaft to the knob. I will try that next time!
A knurled female coupling....? Hmmm....
Well, I guess you could make one out of an internally splined plastic knob by drilling a hole for the shaft in the opposite end and then gluing the shaft to the knob. I will try that next time!
Hi, spent about an hour on the lathe and micro mill to make theses for my Naim Nac42.5 clone.
The rear brackets (float) on a neoprene pad, because I found it impossible to centre the connector with a pot with a flat on the shaft and they now rotate really smoothly, the front bracket has a pressed in 3 x 10 x 6 sealed bearing carrying the shaft. Bit of a pain but worth it in the end.
086 by robertsearby, on Flickr
The rear brackets (float) on a neoprene pad, because I found it impossible to centre the connector with a pot with a flat on the shaft and they now rotate really smoothly, the front bracket has a pressed in 3 x 10 x 6 sealed bearing carrying the shaft. Bit of a pain but worth it in the end.
086 by robertsearby, on Flickr
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If you're in .au or .nz Rod Elliot sells a a 220mm unit with all the bits
See ESP - Extension Shaft Purchase Information
See ESP - Extension Shaft Purchase Information
Need FLEXIBLE 1/4" Coupling/shaft
Guys,
I'm changing the faceplate on a preamp I built a while back and would like to move the knob/bushing for the function switch over about three inches on the faceplate. The switch itself is mounted to a PC board attached directly to the input jacks on the back panel. The switch/knob are currently attached to each other via a straight 1/4" shaft about nine inches long.
I remember that "someone" used to make flexible, coiled 1/4", "spring-like" material that would probably work. Anyone have some? Or Apex (or someone else); do you still have any more of those "1/4" universal joint couplers" you mentioned a few years back?? Would need two "sets".
THANKS
Charles
Guys,
I'm changing the faceplate on a preamp I built a while back and would like to move the knob/bushing for the function switch over about three inches on the faceplate. The switch itself is mounted to a PC board attached directly to the input jacks on the back panel. The switch/knob are currently attached to each other via a straight 1/4" shaft about nine inches long.
I remember that "someone" used to make flexible, coiled 1/4", "spring-like" material that would probably work. Anyone have some? Or Apex (or someone else); do you still have any more of those "1/4" universal joint couplers" you mentioned a few years back?? Would need two "sets".
THANKS
Charles