Etch Resist Stripping

richie00boy · 25th August 2005, 07:38 PM

Is acetone any good for etch resist stripping? I've searched and it seems it will strip it, but takes some doing. Am I better off just making up a strong solution of sodium hydroxide?

Magura · 25th August 2005, 07:49 PM

Acetone strps the etch resist quick and easy. Wet a piece of clothe in acetone and simply wipe off. I never use anything else, too much hassle.

Magura

peranders · 25th August 2005, 07:55 PM

Forget about the acetone.

Drill the board first then use a Scotch Brite sponge or steelwool. Then you will have a shiny copper surface and in the same time all sharp edges from the drilling removed.

bigmike216 · 26th August 2005, 02:48 AM

I use laquer thinner to remove toner. Works great, it just floats right off, no scrubbing.

richie00boy · 26th August 2005, 08:50 AM

Thanks guys, looks like acetone is the way forward. Should be cheap as well

Peranders, I did think about using very fine wet and dry paper or steel wool. Might dip steel wool in acetone and get best of both worlds

AudioWizard · 28th August 2005, 05:58 PM

I use acetone too. Does the job nicely.

Don't forget two things: use acetone in a well ventilated room (avoid breathing the vapors too much) and use rubber gloves. Acetone is harsh on the skin. It won't burn it or anything, but it leaves it very dry, and I suspect it could do more damage over time. So don't take chances.

richie00boy · 28th August 2005, 06:47 PM

Thanks

AuroraB · 28th August 2005, 07:15 PM

I normally use acetone, too.... but the positive photo resist usually developed by NaOH, --- appx 14 g to the liter, can be stripped by a stronger NaOH solution, -- appx 50-60 g pr liter..
use a brush to help dissolve the resist
Often I actually use both- acetone first- because i use a chemical tin plating, and the last NaoH strips any residues sometimes left by the acetone, and preps the boards for the tin.
OTOH- at least some of the pre coated boards sold throughout europe, don't need stripping, as the resist can funtion as a solder mask and can be soldered right through.........at least that's what the PR says...

richie00boy · 29th August 2005, 09:30 AM

The resist is claimed to be solderable/fluxing on the board I use but I find it's a complete lie. What is NaOH? SInterested by your comments as I'm also using a chemical tin plating.

AuroraB · 29th August 2005, 10:19 AM

NaOH---Sodium hydroxide -. or caustic soda.........
The usual paint shop stuff does the job just nicely.. no need to disturb the chemists....

BTW- I don't trust it either, - as solder mask.....
tin plate.. and/or use some good spray-on stuff...............

25th August 2005, 07:38 PM	#1
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	Etch Resist Stripping Is acetone any good for etch resist stripping? I've searched and it seems it will strip it, but takes some doing. Am I better off just making up a strong solution of sodium hydroxide? __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

25th August 2005, 07:49 PM	#2
Magura diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Denmark, Viborg	Acetone strps the etch resist quick and easy. Wet a piece of clothe in acetone and simply wipe off. I never use anything else, too much hassle. Magura __________________ Everything is possible....to do the impossible just takes a little while longer. www.class-a-labs.com

25th August 2005, 07:55 PM	#3
peranders Electrons are yellow and more is better! diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Göteborg, Sweden Blog Entries: 4	Forget about the acetone. Drill the board first then use a Scotch Brite sponge or steelwool. Then you will have a shiny copper surface and in the same time all sharp edges from the drilling removed. __________________ /Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me

26th August 2005, 08:50 AM	#5
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	Thanks guys, looks like acetone is the way forward. Should be cheap as well Peranders, I did think about using very fine wet and dry paper or steel wool. Might dip steel wool in acetone and get best of both worlds __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

28th August 2005, 06:47 PM	#7
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	Thanks __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

26th August 2005, 02:48 AM	#4
bigmike216 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: BC, Canada	I use laquer thinner to remove toner. Works great, it just floats right off, no scrubbing.

28th August 2005, 05:58 PM	#6
AudioWizard diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Southern France	I use acetone too. Does the job nicely. Don't forget two things: use acetone in a well ventilated room (avoid breathing the vapors too much) and use rubber gloves. Acetone is harsh on the skin. It won't burn it or anything, but it leaves it very dry, and I suspect it could do more damage over time. So don't take chances.

28th August 2005, 07:15 PM	#8
AuroraB diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Norway, -north of the moral circle..	I normally use acetone, too.... but the positive photo resist usually developed by NaOH, --- appx 14 g to the liter, can be stripped by a stronger NaOH solution, -- appx 50-60 g pr liter.. use a brush to help dissolve the resist Often I actually use both- acetone first- because i use a chemical tin plating, and the last NaoH strips any residues sometimes left by the acetone, and preps the boards for the tin. OTOH- at least some of the pre coated boards sold throughout europe, don't need stripping, as the resist can funtion as a solder mask and can be soldered right through.........at least that's what the PR says...

29th August 2005, 09:30 AM	#9
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	The resist is claimed to be solderable/fluxing on the board I use but I find it's a complete lie. What is NaOH? SInterested by your comments as I'm also using a chemical tin plating. __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

29th August 2005, 10:19 AM	#10
AuroraB diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Norway, -north of the moral circle..	NaOH---Sodium hydroxide -. or caustic soda......... The usual paint shop stuff does the job just nicely.. no need to disturb the chemists.... BTW- I don't trust it either, - as solder mask..... tin plate.. and/or use some good spray-on stuff...............

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Spray-on postive resist (Positiv 20) in US?	gmikol	Parts	6	10th November 2006 12:34 PM
Couldn't resist this is too funny	corryn00	The Lounge	0	31st January 2005 05:16 AM
Coldn't resist: feedback from 4th order lowpass !!	phase_accurate	Class D	23	13th December 2004 05:01 PM
Etching onto positive photo-resist board	PaulHilgeman	Parts	5	26th September 2003 07:17 PM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read