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Old 6th March 2008, 09:13 PM   #31
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I normally hacksaw it outside - the dust isn't really a problem then.
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Old 6th March 2008, 09:28 PM   #32
gmikol is offline gmikol  United States
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Originally posted by gtforme00
I just gave the reversed band saw blade a shot. Comparing a couple of cuts with the blade normal and backwards, here are the results. The blade has a low hook angle and 14TPI.
Yeesh....I would never run a bandsaw blade backwards. I think KP11520 was talking about reversing a circular saw blade.

No wonder you had so much heat...

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Old 6th March 2008, 09:32 PM   #33
gmikol is offline gmikol  United States
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I've been thinking about this:


It comes with a continuous rim diamond blade, which might not be a bad choice. I understand there are carbide tooth blades out there too for this size.

I just haven't been willing to spend the money to try it out.

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Old 6th March 2008, 10:07 PM   #34
AuroraB is offline AuroraB  Norway
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Jeez, folks....
Most rotary blades will have a cutting speed thats too high - the laminate can get burnt.
A guillotine is the preferred method, without specialized eqpt.
Otherwise - use Pinkmouse's method - clean up with a file or a sanding block.
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Old 25th May 2010, 03:16 AM   #35
vwvan is offline vwvan  United States
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I used the Stanley knife method, sharpened with the side of a cut-off wheel on both sides of a 4 layer PCB. Scored the 4 layer PCB on both sides and then used a block of wood to assist in a clean break. Cleaned the edge with the cut-off wheel. It was fairly fast, 10 minutes of careful work and yielded an excellent result. Thanks AuroraB.
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Old 25th May 2010, 03:40 AM   #36
davada is offline davada  Canada
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I use a 1mm carbide router bit with a Proxxon grinder and a modified Proxxon drill press. The grinder and bit face down on a base that I built. I added a movable fence to help guide the board through. The nice thing about this setup is that it doesn't matter what angle the fence and board is to the bit. I always get a straight and very clean cut.

When I not cutting boards, I use it as a regular drill press for drilling the boards.

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Old 25th May 2010, 05:33 AM   #37
40 watt is offline 40 watt  Canada
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Tile wet saw. You can get small cheap ones where the blade runs through a water bath, no pump, and eliminates dust. A continuous rim tile blade may not be optimum but a segmented blade or turbo style blade should do well. You can get cheap Chinese variants of these blades that would be fine for circuit board. Look for a blade that states it's for concrete or granite. You can get them cheaply in the 3 to 4 inch size that fits one fo these cheap $50 saws.
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Old 25th May 2010, 08:29 AM   #38
willPS is offline willPS  United States
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Now THAT makes sense.
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Old 25th May 2010, 11:51 AM   #39
marce is offline marce  United Kingdom
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Milling with a fish tail bit is the least stressful way if the board is populated. If you cut using a wet system the boards would be best dried in an oven if PTH or multilayer, especuially if using lead free solder, I cant remember the temp and time, but use to do it regular many years ago to help avoid outgassing.
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Old 22nd May 2015, 09:36 AM   #40
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Default Acrylic cutter

Reviving old thread. Saw some people recommended acrylic cutters but did not specify PCB material. Have anyone tried this method, is it viable for FR4 boards? Recommendations on specific models?
As a side question what would be the recommended spacing between sub-boards for manual cutting?
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