Easiest way to cut PCB's? - Page 4

MikeHunt79 · 6th March 2008, 10:13 PM

I normally hacksaw it outside - the dust isn't really a problem then.

gmikol · 6th March 2008, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gtforme00
I just gave the reversed band saw blade a shot. Comparing a couple of cuts with the blade normal and backwards, here are the results. The blade has a low hook angle and 14TPI.

Yeesh....I would never run a bandsaw blade backwards. I think KP11520 was talking about reversing a circular saw blade.

No wonder you had so much heat...

--Greg

gmikol · 6th March 2008, 10:32 PM

I've been thinking about this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93211

It comes with a continuous rim diamond blade, which might not be a bad choice. I understand there are carbide tooth blades out there too for this size.

I just haven't been willing to spend the money to try it out.

--Greg

AuroraB · 6th March 2008, 11:07 PM

Jeez, folks....
Most rotary blades will have a cutting speed thats too high - the laminate can get burnt.
A guillotine is the preferred method, without specialized eqpt.
Otherwise - use Pinkmouse's method - clean up with a file or a sanding block.

vwvan · 25th May 2010, 04:16 AM

I used the Stanley knife method, sharpened with the side of a cut-off wheel on both sides of a 4 layer PCB. Scored the 4 layer PCB on both sides and then used a block of wood to assist in a clean break. Cleaned the edge with the cut-off wheel. It was fairly fast, 10 minutes of careful work and yielded an excellent result. Thanks AuroraB.

davada · 25th May 2010, 04:40 AM

I use a 1mm carbide router bit with a Proxxon grinder and a modified Proxxon drill press. The grinder and bit face down on a base that I built. I added a movable fence to help guide the board through. The nice thing about this setup is that it doesn't matter what angle the fence and board is to the bit. I always get a straight and very clean cut.

When I not cutting boards, I use it as a regular drill press for drilling the boards.

David.

40 watt · 25th May 2010, 06:33 AM

Tile wet saw. You can get small cheap ones where the blade runs through a water bath, no pump, and eliminates dust. A continuous rim tile blade may not be optimum but a segmented blade or turbo style blade should do well. You can get cheap Chinese variants of these blades that would be fine for circuit board. Look for a blade that states it's for concrete or granite. You can get them cheaply in the 3 to 4 inch size that fits one fo these cheap $50 saws.

willPS · 25th May 2010, 09:29 AM

Now THAT makes sense.

marce · 25th May 2010, 12:51 PM

Milling with a fish tail bit is the least stressful way if the board is populated. If you cut using a wet system the boards would be best dried in an oven if PTH or multilayer, especuially if using lead free solder, I cant remember the temp and time, but use to do it regular many years ago to help avoid outgassing.

25th May 2010, 04:40 AM	#36
davada diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort St John, BC Canada	I use a 1mm carbide router bit with a Proxxon grinder and a modified Proxxon drill press. The grinder and bit face down on a base that I built. I added a movable fence to help guide the board through. The nice thing about this setup is that it doesn't matter what angle the fence and board is to the bit. I always get a straight and very clean cut. When I not cutting boards, I use it as a regular drill press for drilling the boards. David. __________________ DB

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6th March 2008, 10:13 PM	#31
MikeHunt79 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Bristol, UK	I normally hacksaw it outside - the dust isn't really a problem then.

6th March 2008, 10:32 PM	#33
gmikol diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Vancouver, WA	I've been thinking about this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93211 It comes with a continuous rim diamond blade, which might not be a bad choice. I understand there are carbide tooth blades out there too for this size. I just haven't been willing to spend the money to try it out. --Greg

6th March 2008, 11:07 PM	#34
AuroraB diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Norway, -north of the moral circle..	Jeez, folks.... Most rotary blades will have a cutting speed thats too high - the laminate can get burnt. A guillotine is the preferred method, without specialized eqpt. Otherwise - use Pinkmouse's method - clean up with a file or a sanding block.

25th May 2010, 04:16 AM	#35
vwvan diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010	I used the Stanley knife method, sharpened with the side of a cut-off wheel on both sides of a 4 layer PCB. Scored the 4 layer PCB on both sides and then used a block of wood to assist in a clean break. Cleaned the edge with the cut-off wheel. It was fairly fast, 10 minutes of careful work and yielded an excellent result. Thanks AuroraB.

25th May 2010, 06:33 AM	#37
40 watt diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2009	Tile wet saw. You can get small cheap ones where the blade runs through a water bath, no pump, and eliminates dust. A continuous rim tile blade may not be optimum but a segmented blade or turbo style blade should do well. You can get cheap Chinese variants of these blades that would be fine for circuit board. Look for a blade that states it's for concrete or granite. You can get them cheaply in the 3 to 4 inch size that fits one fo these cheap $50 saws.

25th May 2010, 09:29 AM	#38
willPS diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2009	Now THAT makes sense.

25th May 2010, 12:51 PM	#39
marce diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Blackburn, Lancs	Milling with a fish tail bit is the least stressful way if the board is populated. If you cut using a wet system the boards would be best dried in an oven if PTH or multilayer, especuially if using lead free solder, I cant remember the temp and time, but use to do it regular many years ago to help avoid outgassing.

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