How to hold large capacitors in place - Page 3

indianajo · 03:31 AM

Sy is right, liquid nails is a great adhesive. The trouble is, after you open a 14 oz tube, I find it is unusable the next day. For my non-travel amp (sits in the corner, no roadies) I used monkey-****, otherwise known as air conditioner duct putty. Clay plus oil. Held a cap down in the ST120 for 15 years. As far as kitchen & bath grade (rated 400 deg F) silicon I adhesive, I lost a front wheel bearing cover on the 59 Ford Christmas Eve north of Goodall TX. The modern replacement cap (HELP brand) was 1/32" smaller. I glued it on with the most popular 5 minute epoxy (something metal), let it dry 4 hours, it fell out immediately. I glued it again with GE kitchen & bath grade silicon seal, waited four hours (24 hour cure) and it was still stuck on 2 years later when I pulled it to repack the bearing. I don't drive gently or slowly, either. I keep a tube of bath&kitchen silicon seal going for projects like radiator hose sealing and valve covers, lawnmower carburators etc., and usually a 14 oz tube will last a year without drying up, if you plug the end with a screw.

etoiledusoir · 14th May 2010, 02:38 AM

What about using hose clamp with 90 degree aluminium angle or make hole in the botttom plate and mount the cap horizontaly.

edusub · 16th July 2010, 12:46 AM

Hello,

I was also thiking in where and how place new and bigger than the original caps in an old Marantz amp I'm modding. Original ones were 30mm. diameter and the new ones are 35mm. If put in the original place of the PCB they will be in contact with some other components such as resistors and diodes, which I don't like to prevent any shorcut or whatever problem.
The question is if those nylon square adhesive cable tie mounts

will support the possible heat generated by the caps. Just a note to say that original caps where 8200mF 56V. and new ones 12000mF 63V. If i'm not wrong, the voltage increase will prevent this possible extra hot?

Last question, is there any functional problem to place caps in horizontal position (instead of vertically as originally put on the PCB) attached to the chasis side, then wired to the PCB contacts?

Thanks for the help.

Edu

glennb · 17th July 2010, 07:26 AM

Automotive double sided tape, as used to stick on trims etc. Very strong, yet can still be removed with a bit of force, and does not leave any residue.

DreadPirate · 17th July 2010, 05:49 PM

I'm surprised no one has mentioned E-6000 or its cousins Shoe Goo and Goop. These are flexible like silicone (which I would not recommend, as it doesn't hold), but much, much stronger. You can actually use this stuff to reglue the bottom of jogging shoes and it holds like a dickens. You don't even have to scuff up the surfaces to be glued, it will hold nonetheless. It is solvent based (toluene, I think), so there could be some issues with it reacting with the board and it will be a bitch to remove if you ever have to. You can always lay the cap flat, drill holes on either side, and run a nylon tie around it, looks tidy. The mounting ring is best.

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/

13th May 2010, 03:18 AM	#21
indianajo diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Jeffersonville, Indiana USA	adhesive cap mount Sy is right, liquid nails is a great adhesive. The trouble is, after you open a 14 oz tube, I find it is unusable the next day. For my non-travel amp (sits in the corner, no roadies) I used monkey-***, otherwise known as air conditioner duct putty. Clay plus oil. Held a cap down in the ST120 for 15 years. As far as kitchen & bath grade (rated 400 deg F) silicon I adhesive, I lost a front wheel bearing cover on the 59 Ford Christmas Eve north of Goodall TX. The modern replacement cap (HELP brand) was 1/32" smaller. I glued it on with the most popular 5 minute epoxy (something metal), let it dry 4 hours, it fell out immediately. I glued it again with GE kitchen & bath grade silicon seal, waited four hours (24 hour cure) and it was still stuck on 2 years later when I pulled it to repack the bearing. I don't drive gently or slowly, either. I keep a tube of bath&kitchen silicon seal going for projects like radiator hose sealing and valve covers, lawnmower carburators etc., and usually a 14 oz tube will last a year without drying up, if you plug the end with a screw. __________________ Dynakit ST70, ST120, PAS2,Hammond H182(2 ea),H112,A100,10-82TC,Peavey CS800S,SP2-XT's, T-300 HF Projs, Steinway console, Herald RA88a mixer, Wurlitzer 4500 Last edited by indianajo; 13th May 2010 at 03:31 AM. Reason: time limits*

17th July 2010, 07:26 AM	#24
glennb diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Melbourne	Automotive double sided tape, as used to stick on trims etc. Very strong, yet can still be removed with a bit of force, and does not leave any residue. __________________ Glenn.

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16th July 2010, 12:46 AM	#23
edusub diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2010	Hello, I was also thiking in where and how place new and bigger than the original caps in an old Marantz amp I'm modding. Original ones were 30mm. diameter and the new ones are 35mm. If put in the original place of the PCB they will be in contact with some other components such as resistors and diodes, which I don't like to prevent any shorcut or whatever problem. The question is if those nylon square adhesive cable tie mounts will support the possible heat generated by the caps. Just a note to say that original caps where 8200mF 56V. and new ones 12000mF 63V. If i'm not wrong, the voltage increase will prevent this possible extra hot? Last question, is there any functional problem to place caps in horizontal position (instead of vertically as originally put on the PCB) attached to the chasis side, then wired to the PCB contacts? Thanks for the help. Edu

17th July 2010, 05:49 PM	#25
DreadPirate diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Northern Virginia, USA	I'm surprised no one has mentioned E-6000 or its cousins Shoe Goo and Goop. These are flexible like silicone (which I would not recommend, as it doesn't hold), but much, much stronger. You can actually use this stuff to reglue the bottom of jogging shoes and it holds like a dickens. You don't even have to scuff up the surfaces to be glued, it will hold nonetheless. It is solvent based (toluene, I think), so there could be some issues with it reacting with the board and it will be a bitch to remove if you ever have to. You can always lay the cap flat, drill holes on either side, and run a nylon tie around it, looks tidy. The mounting ring is best. http://www.eclecticproducts.com/

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