what solder should be used ??

kambule · 3rd August 2005, 09:34 AM

1. 100% Tin

or

2. 60 % Tin + 40% Lead

or

suggestions

??

richie00boy · 3rd August 2005, 10:17 AM

60/40 unless you want to melt all your components and buy a new iron.

ilimzn · 3rd August 2005, 06:49 PM

For high-rel applications variants with up to a few% of silver and copper can be used, but they require different flux, which MUST be cleaned off. Actually, this is a good idea in general.

anatech · 4th August 2005, 12:25 AM

60/40 or if you like to spend more 63/37 "eutectic". Clean off all flux as
ilimzn stated. I even have a 5lb roll of Kester 44 I use on old radios.

-Chris

Audiophilenoob · 4th August 2005, 04:20 AM

I've used 95 tin/5 antimony for years without issues though my latest PE order that arrives tomorrow does have a 1/2 lb of 60/40 in it

kambule · 4th August 2005, 02:09 PM

Which flux to use if needed ??

richie00boy · 4th August 2005, 03:30 PM

No extra flux is needed unless you like to make a mess and/or you are trying to use components that have been sitting around since 1943.

anatech · 4th August 2005, 10:03 PM

That's not strictly true. It helps on new boards (I get a better wet) and is needed with smt work. Not unless you like chasing down solder bridges. Clean with lacquer thinner and a tooth brush. Of course you can pay more for commercial canned products.

-Chris

ilimzn · 4th August 2005, 10:12 PM

Solder wire intended for electronics normally has the required flux in the wire, it's just that SnPbCu and SnPbAg flux is a bit more agressive. There are SnAg solder wires that require >300 deg C and a separate flux (don't know what the composition is, when I used this, the flux bottle came bundled with the solder wire and actually cost almost as much as the expensive wire!).
There are flux sprays as well as eyedropper and brush-on liquids, which can be of great help for SMD components and NOS silvered or silver wire components when the silver has tarnished. In any case, I would take any flux residue off the board. Flux is normally heat activated, but that only means it's chemically agressive action is slowed down a lot at room temperature - in essence, it WILL eventually degrade the board and/or attract moisture and partciles, it will just take a long time. Still, it's really not a big investment to clean it off and you get a pristine board which will never have problems of that kind.

anatech · 4th August 2005, 10:15 PM

Amen to that. Be clean, how can you inspect the board otherwise?

-Chris

3rd August 2005, 09:34 AM	#1
kambule diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Hongkong	what solder should be used ?? 1. 100% Tin or 2. 60 % Tin + 40% Lead or suggestions ??

3rd August 2005, 10:17 AM	#2
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	60/40 unless you want to melt all your components and buy a new iron. __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

4th August 2005, 02:09 PM	#6
kambule diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Hongkong	Do you use extra flux as well ?? Which flux to use if needed ??

4th August 2005, 03:30 PM	#7
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	No extra flux is needed unless you like to make a mess and/or you are trying to use components that have been sitting around since 1943. __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

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3rd August 2005, 06:49 PM	#3
ilimzn diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Zagreb	For high-rel applications variants with up to a few% of silver and copper can be used, but they require different flux, which MUST be cleaned off. Actually, this is a good idea in general.

4th August 2005, 12:25 AM	#4
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	60/40 or if you like to spend more 63/37 "eutectic". Clean off all flux as ilimzn stated. I even have a 5lb roll of Kester 44 I use on old radios. -Chris

4th August 2005, 04:20 AM	#5
Audiophilenoob diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: NC	I've used 95 tin/5 antimony for years without issues though my latest PE order that arrives tomorrow does have a 1/2 lb of 60/40 in it

4th August 2005, 10:03 PM	#8
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	That's not strictly true. It helps on new boards (I get a better wet) and is needed with smt work. Not unless you like chasing down solder bridges. Clean with lacquer thinner and a tooth brush. Of course you can pay more for commercial canned products. -Chris

4th August 2005, 10:12 PM	#9
ilimzn diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Zagreb	Solder wire intended for electronics normally has the required flux in the wire, it's just that SnPbCu and SnPbAg flux is a bit more agressive. There are SnAg solder wires that require >300 deg C and a separate flux (don't know what the composition is, when I used this, the flux bottle came bundled with the solder wire and actually cost almost as much as the expensive wire!). There are flux sprays as well as eyedropper and brush-on liquids, which can be of great help for SMD components and NOS silvered or silver wire components when the silver has tarnished. In any case, I would take any flux residue off the board. Flux is normally heat activated, but that only means it's chemically agressive action is slowed down a lot at room temperature - in essence, it WILL eventually degrade the board and/or attract moisture and partciles, it will just take a long time. Still, it's really not a big investment to clean it off and you get a pristine board which will never have problems of that kind.

4th August 2005, 10:15 PM	#10
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	Amen to that. Be clean, how can you inspect the board otherwise? -Chris

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