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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: USA
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Hello,
I am building Rod Elliots Speaker protection circuit to use in my leach amp and I am trying to choose a relay. Below are two choices: NTE R25-1D16-12 http://www.nteinc.com/relay_web/pdf/R25.pdf or Tyco's OZ series http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/OZ-OZF.pdf Does anyone have any experience with this. Why is the NTE relay 8 dollars while the tyco is only 1? Are there different characteristics that I am not noticing (build quality?) One final question for a different but related project, Mouser Electronics claims that this relay below is rated at 10A but the data sheet seems to say that its 5A at both 240V and 120V. Is it 10A or 5A at 120V? Can anybody tell? http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/OMI-2P.pdf Any input on either topic would be greatly appreciated Thanks in advance Wes
__________________
Anything worth doing is worth doing right... and redoing to make it better... and again to fix it back the way it was. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Perth
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In my opinion the Tyco OZ series seems to be quite suitable.
I would go for the single make type OZ-SH-112LM1,294 (12V) or the 124LM1 (24V). These have large QC tab connect terminals for attaching heavy gauge speaker wires and the contact area is large enough to handle the current while having low contact resistance. The only problem I have found using sealed relays for this application is that over time the contact resistance can become intermittently high. I have drilled a small hole through the case and sprayed in some good contact cleaner lubricant and this has fixed the problem. Preferably, a drop of Stabilant 22A on each contact is the way to go if you can get at the contact and can afford the stuff. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Northern California
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Only Tyco specs the contact resistance at 100 milliohms, too high for a speaker relay IMHO. Normally speaker relays would be mechanicaly large open frame units.
Also the NTE relay uses Cadmium over silver contacts, depending on how much you believe in exotic cables, this is probably not a good metal choice. If the amplifier output is capacitor coupled the relay will not stop speaker thumps unless a resistor is wired to precharge the capacitor (to the other speaker leg) through the back contact of the relay. A 100 watt amplifier can source 5 amps into 4 Ohms, probably double that during peaks. My home amplifier can source up to 40 amps so a bigger relay might be a wiser choice. (rherber1) A relay that shows high contact resistance after a few uses (less than 1,000) is most likely underated, pits are being burned into the contacts. I think that after a while the cleaner trick will stop working. You may already be giving up some sound quality. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Perth
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Quote:
I have mil spec reed relay elements, which as you know are hermetically sealed units, and after sitting unused for many years they have developed high contact resistance (usually less than 5 ohms). It usually takes a number of operations to get the resistance back to normal. All relay contacts rely upon frequent operation to produce the necessary rubbing action at the contact points to maintain low resistance. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Perth
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Sorry, I inserted some comments inside your quoted text. Hope you can sort it out.
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: S Yorkshire OK
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Do the relay switches carry much current at the time they're switched? If not, you should be looking at gold contacts.
Quote:
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: USA
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Wow, thanks for all the replies. I actually have had a lot on my plate lately so I just went with this relay:
G8P-1A4P-DC24 ( price around $3) http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...e_pcodeid=65309 based on a recommendation on another thread. Let me know what your oppinions are on this relay, and hopefully sometime soon I'll be able to let you know how it works out. I figure I can upgrade some other time since these were only 4 bucks. Thanks again, Wes
__________________
Anything worth doing is worth doing right... and redoing to make it better... and again to fix it back the way it was. |
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