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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Denmark, Viborg
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Anyone made a DIY solder mask? if yes, how??
Cheers Magura
__________________
Everything is possible....to do the impossible just takes a little while longer. www.class-a-labs.com |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi !
I used 2 methods : Option 1: If you only need to make your PCB green (or any color), you can try acrylic inks used to paint on glass. The one I found needs to be cured by heating it in the oven and is manufactured by PEBEO. It can be found at Mal-Wart. (Make sure that the one you try isn't electrically conductive). When applied with foam applicator, it gives pretty nice results. Option 2: If you need a real solder mask, you'll need to deal with serigraphy stuff. You can find photo-serigraphy starter kit here by example: http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1940565-AA.shtml The process involves a lot of time in silkscreen preparation and is not really recommended for single parts. The process becomes interesting in large scale production. For me, the most complicated part was to find inks and solder paste. I used to order "samples" from PCB manufacturing plants. 500ml will last forever. I hope this helps ! |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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OH, I forgot to mention :
If you go for option #1, you can cover your soldering pads with clear sticky film used to protect books and shelves. When curing the ink in the oven, the plastic film will shrink and/or burn. When soldering, the use of "flux" allows a clean job. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
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Elkaid,
Is this the pebeo stuff that you use? http://www.theartshop.com.au/category497_1.htm Also, I assume you are using FR-4 type PC boards and they withstand this heat without problems? Do you put it into the oven for the recommended time and temperature? Thanks. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Manila
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Is that pebeo stuff solder-resist? which one is non-conductive?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Denmark, Viborg
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I took contact to the Danish importer of Pebeo, I got adviced to try Vitrea 160.
I will make a few experiments with that in the nearest future an make a report. Magura
__________________
Everything is possible....to do the impossible just takes a little while longer. www.class-a-labs.com |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
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Thanks Magura, I look forward to the results.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
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If you are going to use the Pebeo Vitrea paint, you will need to ensure that the PCB you are going to use can support the temperatures required to set the paint (160°C).
I've done a search and for FR-4 PCB's, the glass transition temperature can range from 120°C to 180°C. Does anyone have a source of high temp FR-4 PCB's? (Other than going to FR-5). |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi guys,
Sorry for the delay ! Quote:
By personal experience, you don't absolutely need to heat the PCB to 160°C for the suggested period of time. It gave me good results when heating the PCB until the paint is doesn't transfer on your finger when touching it. Then, I simply lay the PCB at room temperature. However, I'm really looking forward to hear about your experience with Vitrea paint. Have a nice day |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Denmark, Viborg
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I just got my hands on some of that vitrea stuff, it seems to be available just about everywhere. I found it in a small hobby and crafts shop in a small town
I'll see if I can find some time for playing around with it during the weekend. Magura
__________________
Everything is possible....to do the impossible just takes a little while longer. www.class-a-labs.com |
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