I have some of the Neutrik D series XLR panel connectors.
They come disassembled and are two seperate parts. One is the case and the other is the connector that is supposed to be able to be locked into the case. Key word: supposed to.
I can't figure out how to get it locked in. I see the latch, and all neutrik's website says to do is use a screwdriver. But they don't say what to do.
Does anybody know how to lock these things together?
Thanks!
-Mike
They come disassembled and are two seperate parts. One is the case and the other is the connector that is supposed to be able to be locked into the case. Key word: supposed to.
I can't figure out how to get it locked in. I see the latch, and all neutrik's website says to do is use a screwdriver. But they don't say what to do.
Does anybody know how to lock these things together?
Thanks!
-Mike
XLR solution
Hi Mike,
I used the exact same connectors on my BZLS linestage and had a similar problem to yours.
The concept of the connector is really good, but the latching mechanism is rather poor. What i did for mine was used a pretty small precision screwdriver (2mm tip) and a pair of pliers to turn it.
Look at the connector from the front, and slide the screwdriver into the small circuilar keyhole looking thing in the centre of the connector. Hold it there and grip the screwdriver with the pliers to turn it in a clockwise direction. You don't need to turn it much to have it lock in, maybe a tenth of a full rotation. Be gentle with it, as you may damage the screwdriver or the slot. You'll feel it when you have it locked!
Good luck with them, and hopefully this helped somewhat. They're a pain in the **** to get on, but they're an excellent connector once they're in place!
Cheers,
Owen C.
(By the way, why did you chose these connectors? I used mine because they needed to be directly PCB mounted, but I can't think of any other reason for them)
Hi Mike,
I used the exact same connectors on my BZLS linestage and had a similar problem to yours.
The concept of the connector is really good, but the latching mechanism is rather poor. What i did for mine was used a pretty small precision screwdriver (2mm tip) and a pair of pliers to turn it.
Look at the connector from the front, and slide the screwdriver into the small circuilar keyhole looking thing in the centre of the connector. Hold it there and grip the screwdriver with the pliers to turn it in a clockwise direction. You don't need to turn it much to have it lock in, maybe a tenth of a full rotation. Be gentle with it, as you may damage the screwdriver or the slot. You'll feel it when you have it locked!
Good luck with them, and hopefully this helped somewhat. They're a pain in the **** to get on, but they're an excellent connector once they're in place!
Cheers,
Owen C.
(By the way, why did you chose these connectors? I used mine because they needed to be directly PCB mounted, but I can't think of any other reason for them)
Hi Mike,
The 'latch' can be turned clockwise (about 1/4 to 1/2 turn) to lock the plastic pin carrier into the metal mouting flange.
But it's important to have the plastic part fully inserted and aligned without bending. Actually, the Neutrik plugs are tight fits, but I once experienced the same as the above poster(s).
Once you've figured out how to put the two parts together (practice dry, simply with the parts in your hand) you'll find out that the latch can be locked and unlocked all day long without trouble or wearing, just using a small screwdriver.
Sebastian
soundNERD said:
The 'latch' can be turned clockwise (about 1/4 to 1/2 turn) to lock the plastic pin carrier into the metal mouting flange.
But it's important to have the plastic part fully inserted and aligned without bending. Actually, the Neutrik plugs are tight fits, but I once experienced the same as the above poster(s).
Once you've figured out how to put the two parts together (practice dry, simply with the parts in your hand) you'll find out that the latch can be locked and unlocked all day long without trouble or wearing, just using a small screwdriver.
Sebastian
Thanks I will try that.
The reason I used these were to match the RCA connectors on the back of my 3875 amp. I have the preamp (LM833) in a seperate enclosure, and I'm using these to give the preamp power from the amp PSU so it doesn't need another PSU and so it turns on with the amp. The three connectors are perfect, and they were clearly the right choice to me over a 3-prong headphone jack.
I'll show a picture of it all when finished.
Thanks for the help!
The reason I used these were to match the RCA connectors on the back of my 3875 amp. I have the preamp (LM833) in a seperate enclosure, and I'm using these to give the preamp power from the amp PSU so it doesn't need another PSU and so it turns on with the amp. The three connectors are perfect, and they were clearly the right choice to me over a 3-prong headphone jack.
I'll show a picture of it all when finished.
Thanks for the help!
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