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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I went to Sears/ Lowes/ Home Depot and Ace Hardware to find a blade that would cut aluminum, no luck.
Anybody purchased one from the above stores that works ? Thanks.
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left lane is for passing, slower traffic keep right please. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Eugene, OR
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A carbide tipped wood cutting blade will do alum. Get one with 80 teeth.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
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Here is a listing of Freud non-ferrous 10" blades:
LU89 - 72 teeth, thick kerf: I have this one and it works great for cutting all kinds of aluminum stock. I have cut up to 1" thick plate with this blade and 2" square stock. LU90 - 100 teeth, thick kerf: I haven't used this blade, but it is supposed to be optimized for thin stock, getting smoother cut, but not recommended for thick stock (1/4" or less) TK706 - 80 teeth, thin kerf: Freud's newest non-ferrous blade, thinner blade (main advantage = less mass requiring less power to run and less metal scrap created). I haven't heard much about this blade. The amazon review says that it works great, even on 1/4" stock. This is the cheapest of the blades. Here is the info from the Freud site: http://www.freudtools.com/whats_new/rls11.html I have used my LU89 blade for over a year now, and it works great. (I know I just discussed this with you on AIM, but posting this for others) I would really recommend a non-ferrous blade, as you will get much better cuts. I tried my 60 tooth carbide blade, and it wasn't nearly as good. I used the LU89 blade to cut several chassis. This is my favorite: http://www.briangt.com/gallery/leachamp-5channel -- Brian |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Seattle
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So I've got one of the Freud non-ferrous blades. My only complaint is that aluminum builds up on the teeth while cutting. Is there any way to keep this from happeining?
Thanks, Jason |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
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Quote:
-- Brian |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
The alloy you are using is probably too soft and not suitable for machining. Use different aluminum. You might also try putting some wax on a blade.
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#7 |
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Mark Kravchenko --- www.kravchenko-audio.com
diyAudio Member
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A blade designed to cut non-ferous metals has a much fifferent rake angle than one designed for wood. Less of a hook is the easiest way to describe it. It's made that way to limit the rate at which it self feeds in the piece being machined. cutting aluminum is risky because of the one time you may not have it held firmly it will be thrown. Use a hold down or a finger board to control downward pressure. Allways cross cut with a mitre guide and never cut a piece where it could bind against the table saw fence. Wax that has been rubbed onto the blade will help keep it clean. Obviously do this when the blade is not running on the saw!!
MArk
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Mark |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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I wonder why Peter didn't mentioned duralumin, if I spelled it correctly?
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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I found Freud TK 706 blade at a local machine shop(http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...arden&n=507846) and cuts through aluminum like butter
__________________
left lane is for passing, slower traffic keep right please. |
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