Extreme speaker connectors - Page 2 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Parts

Parts Where to get, and how to make the best bits. PCB's, caps, transformers, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11th September 2002, 02:45 AM   #11
diyAudio Member
 
Peter Daniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Send a message via AIM to Peter Daniel
I was thinking about the best speaker connections for a long time and came to one conclusion only: the best binding post is no post at all. The better ones are really fancy, very expensive, but let's face it, they are needed on consumer equipment because otherwise nobody would be able to connect amps with speakers. However when you make the connection, unless you are reviewer, how many times do you disconnect your equipment, I do it very rarely. And besides, you are in diy audio.

So what I propose here is to go really extreme and solder the output wires from the amp directly to speakers cables. I can garantee that this will be the best connection (unless you want to use crimping, but then, in case you want to disconnect you would have to cut your pricy cables ).

So how many of you want to be extreme? I might do it on my next amp (AlephX?).
__________________
www.audiosector.com
“Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th September 2002, 04:46 AM   #12
diyAudio Member
 
trigon's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Canada
Ups...
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th September 2002, 05:19 AM   #13
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel
So what I propose here is to go really extreme and solder the output wires from the amp directly to speakers cables
That is decidely the best posts. I often go half way with the wire soldered to the speaker and then connected to the amp at the posts. You can also just use the posts as a crimp spot -- run the wires out from the amp into the hole in the posts, put the speaker wire into the same hole and hold them together with the binding post nut... the cheapest posts are probably as good as the best when you do this.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th September 2002, 07:05 AM   #14
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Torrance, CA
Every time I think of wire and mechanical connections I think of all the wires NOT in contact. Soldering a cheap post makes a lot of sense, everything woudl be conducting.

Not sure how you'd get anything out though

First time I put X10 modules in, I didn't use wire nuts, I soldered and heat shrank everything. When I left the apartment in a couple of years it took me forever to get them disconnected
__________________
== John ==
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th September 2002, 08:23 AM   #15
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
 
peranders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Göteborg, Sweden
Blog Entries: 4
I have "scanned" the connectors. The little one is normal size, only 63 A and the big mama is 400 A.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bindpost.jpg (8.8 KB, 1410 views)
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th September 2002, 08:31 AM   #16
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
 
peranders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Göteborg, Sweden
Blog Entries: 4
I must also add that Rustraht who makes these connectors also have "spadar" (don't have the english word, metal forks for the cable) which is obviously also huge. They are made for cables like a BIG finger.

BTW: I have trouble with BIG, LARGE and GREAT. In Swedish there is only one word for the three, just "STOR".
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th September 2002, 08:37 AM   #17
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
 
peranders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Göteborg, Sweden
Blog Entries: 4
If we talk some sanity, I think that the 100 A model is very nice. Look at the yellow-green one at the picture. You can also get the 100 A model in an extra long version, very suitable for speakers.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 5.1.jpg (39.3 KB, 980 views)
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th September 2002, 02:17 PM   #18
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
 
peranders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Göteborg, Sweden
Blog Entries: 4
Default Copper common?

Question to the tweakers: Is it common with binding posts in pure copper? Ruhstrat bindning posts is the first and only I've seen.
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th September 2002, 02:29 PM   #19
diyAudio Member
 
nemestra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: UK
Default Copper binding posts

Copper binding posts are not that common. Audioplan, a German hifi & speaker manufacturer, have used copper binding posts for several years and claim that they sound better.

It's quite difficult for DIYers to find pure copper binding posts since most connector companies don't use this material. There is a good reason - it's too soft. There are warnings all over my Audiplan Konstrast II about not overtightening the posts - they will simply snap off. This is the main reason most makers don't use pure copper - too many reliability and returns issues.

James
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th September 2002, 07:31 PM   #20
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
Default Re: Copper binding posts

Quote:
Originally posted by nemestra
It's quite difficult for DIYers to find pure copper binding posts since most connector companies don't use this material. There is a good reason - it's too soft.
If left exposed to the air it also oxidizes. I have some nice blue pennies outside that are a nice example.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Speaker connectors for use with external crossovers luvdunhill Multi-Way 6 2nd April 2008 01:58 AM
Can I use 1/4" jacks for speaker connectors? MikeHunt79 Everything Else 48 5th December 2007 12:25 PM
B&O speaker connectors SY Parts 13 10th October 2007 08:37 PM
Bang & Olufsen speaker connectors SSLtech Analog Line Level 4 16th August 2006 06:09 PM
Really, really extreme phono, more extreme than mine peranders Analogue Source 34 23rd October 2002 12:59 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:56 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2