Mundorf capacitors difference

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As a rule, we EEs are fairly good at ignoring troll bait and just occasionally try to inject a bit of sanity when it is felt that it could do some good. In spite of some of the very impressive ALL CAPS and longandinvolvedrunonsentence posts that fan the flames, there are actually a lot of people on the forums that truly want to learn and have valid problems and questions. I've been designing high precision analog circuits in the Metrology field for over 30 years and one of the most important things that I have realized is that so much of my knowledge and capabilities are due to someone simply taking the time to teach and give me the benefit of their experience - I, and others, just occasionally try to repay that as we can. As for the, uh... other posts - we pass them around the lab for a good laugh. Seriously, there are idiots that actually replace an electrolytic caps aluminum shell with wood and think it will somehow improve something. Oh, well - the gene pool does have a shallow end...

Hal
 
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But the issue presented was that there is no human difference (perceivable) based in/on non-human subjects using or measured with measuring equipment
Your rigmarole makes no sense. every single bit you write is wrong, it must be some kind of record.


* we are talking precisely about human perceived difference and the example was provided by you ... wtf?

* we are talking musical instruments which of course are non Humans ... wtf?

* measuring instruments are ... ummmmm ..... used for Measuring .... what´s your point?

Oh, almost forgot, you wanted to "tease Techs/Engineers"

Silly, isn´t it?

Can´t you go play in the park or take a nap instead?
 
Your rigmarole makes no sense. every single bit you write is wrong, it must be some kind of record.


* we are talking precisely about human perceived difference and the example was provided by you ... wtf?

* we are talking musical instruments which of course are non Humans ... wtf?

* measuring instruments are ... ummmmm ..... used for Measuring .... what´s your point?

Oh, almost forgot, you wanted to "tease Techs/Engineers"

Silly, isn´t it?

Can´t you go play in the park or take a nap instead?
I never said I was out to "tease Techs/Engineers" Those are your words. Resorting to pedantic ad hominem attacks to support your point is failing miserably. I offered a reasonable yet unconventional approach a members question about selecting similar PP/MF capacitors. I offered that taking the weight or mass of the foil used in a said compactor may offer as much if not more insight into its impact on sound quality then conventional variables. It a reasonable and quantitative approach. I expected push back from an engineering perspective because its not a commonly taken into consideration but there was little response. All I received was poorly written Syclotron Audio conspiracy diatribe stating that a majority of the audio community, both technical and layperson, are under some kind of mass psychosis in believing they can acutely hear differences in what they are listening to. Its beyond ridiculous.

All you've offered is childish pejorative filled critiques on typos other BS about watching waveforms on spectrum analyzers. Do you even own a stereo?

If your not going to offer anything constructive. Why don't you qualify what equipment you listen to/with and how much time you spend listening in the coarse of an average week? If not, why don't you go "take an nap" or go make some spreadsheets on the Johnson noise in your clock radio if that floats your boat.

--
 
As a rule, we EEs are fairly good at ignoring troll bait and just occasionally try to inject a bit of sanity when it is felt that it could do some good. In spite of some of the very impressive ALL CAPS and longandinvolvedrunonsentence posts that fan the flames, there are actually a lot of people on the forums that truly want to learn and have valid problems and questions. I've been designing high precision analog circuits in the Metrology field for over 30 years and one of the most important things that I have realized is that so much of my knowledge and capabilities are due to someone simply taking the time to teach and give me the benefit of their experience - I, and others, just occasionally try to repay that as we can. As for the, uh... other posts - we pass them around the lab for a good laugh. Seriously, there are idiots that actually replace an electrolytic caps aluminum shell with wood and think it will somehow improve something. Oh, well - the gene pool does have a shallow end...

Hal
Honestly Hal, I'm not seeing much sanity in the past few responses. Its mostly pejorative filled cynicism and conspiracy theories about precision audio components and audio industry. I respect your background but speaking of Idiots. Its the engineering community the stuck the industry/consumers with the absurd Red-book standards and digital compression we have today. How is that been working out? It's taken 20+ years for the industry to drag itsefl out of this digital hell and begin to re-embrace analog.

--
 
MY words? ;)
Gosh!!!!
Posting a provocative statement to invite comment is baiting/tolling (what I said). "Teasing" (what you said) is a pointless statement bordering on a pejorative. At least how I understand dialog. Consider the difference. Again, you are still wasting bandwidth as nothing you've posted is constructive to the threads original question (remember that?) or my reply on capacitor selection. :sleep:
 
Hi,i have this beautiful set of Hivi Swan 4.2f and i have these for almost 8 years now.i recently decided to upgrade the crossover for these speakers.
What surprised me is it has 3 crossovers inside.
1 crossover in woofer compartment which is driving 2 woofers.

1 crossover in woofer department which is driving 1 midrange unit.

1 crossover in Midrange Compartment which is driving 1 Tweeter Unit.

I would like to know upgrade options,i am also looking to move all crossovers outside the speakers & make sperate box for high-end crossovers.

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Impressive how those guys use the cheapest components possible...brrrr.

So what is your question ? You see the components, their values. as a starting point go from tweeter, next midrnge and last bass x-over.

For the tweeter i suggest as a cap Miflex KPCU1, similar sound than Duelund Cast for a fraction of the price. Same for the mid.

For the coils, Mundorf foil coils. dont have to be the biggest versions. I tried other producers as well, but cant match the life and holography of Mundorf.

For the resisors...ideally Magnanin or Wirewound...Mundorf has both, but other producers as well.
 
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[B]@HiperJZ[/B] Hey Hipper.

Please consider this strategy: Leave the woofer crossover alone. In the mid crossover & the tweeter crossovers, replace the all resistors (white squarish things) use Mills 12w wire-wound of the same value And, replace the of the black capacitors using "Solen Polypropylene Film & Foils" of the same value (voltage rating doesnt matter) the solens can be 100/200/600v, etc) then line the inside of the cabinet with 1/8-1/4 thick felt attached with spray glue or other. Leave the coils alone.​

Here are sources for the resistors and capacitors:​

https://solen.ca/en/categories/solen-film-foil-polypropylene-caps/products

https://www.soniccraft.com/index.php/mills-12-watt-c-29_53_63?osCsid=ncqij05mrka5p9n8ftl1ah4ac3
https://www.soniccraft.com/index.ph...-29_419_421?osCsid=ncqij05mrka5p9n8ftl1ah4ac3
https://www.partsconnexion.com/mills-mra-12-resistors.html

https://www.hificollective.co.uk/ might be a good source for you for the resistors.

Forget about the Milflex & Duland copper foil stuff yes they are excellent but you are never going to fit soup-can sized ginormous capacitors inside your cabinet/OEM crossover boards. Go ahead look up of the size/s before you order them. Yes, the the arm chair warriors will tell you to build outboard crossovers but don't, just keep it simple. There are very few Metalized Polypropylene (MKP) or foil type capacitors that will sound marginally better than the solens and they tremendously larger in both size an cost. The solens are a film and foil and they are compact.

Double check your part values when ordering and assembly and enjoy and report back your results. I think you will be very very happy.

PS Your OEM caps aren't that bad you could try just replacing the resistors first if you wanted to be more budget conscious. If solens are too much $$ consider Mundorf EVO Oils, nice but a touch less rich/warm then the solens
 
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I think you might be jumping a bit too quickly. While you might be right, take another look at what NickKUK said. "The key is what is being measured." That leaves room for exploration. The characteristic the component is named for is not the only characteristic it has that can be measured.
 
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Well this was an interesting thread from long ago, resurrected. Speaker caps and opinions, we've all got em. IMO I think you are on the right track with Mundorf Supreme Evo, but I'd suggest the Supreme Evo Oils. I would replace the woofer cap with a regular EVO or regular evo oil. Inductors, your call - however I would recommend replacing the wire while in there, the manufacturer using caps like that, think they used nice wire? I'd bet it's subpar too, maybe even recycled copper. I've recently tried the Miflex, and they're very nice! You could consider the Supreme Evo Oils then plan a future upgrade putting 0.1uF Miflex on top of the tweeter Supremes - you will be stacking and it might look ugly but will work. That's what my approach would be.
 
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I just picked up on this thread. I've played with a few different caps, coils, inductors and resistors in passive components.
I'm not a fan of Oils in any crossover. I like the sound just not the overall performance over it's life. I'm a big Teflon fan
from a few different manufactures and No oils in mylar, copper, tinned copper, silver, and silver/gold. I don't want to add
10% to the mix I want to add 1% none leaking caps. I mean physical oil leaking out of caps and making a mess.

I use a lot of the older Cary valve units, other than filter caps ALL of the caps are replaced no matter the brand with non
oils. Duelund, TRT, Audyn and Mundorf. The absolute best collection cap (bypass) is a 1% WIMA. .0001 to .001. But for a
little added flavor Duelund "by pass" silver or tinned copper @.001

If you do have picky ears get ready for the nasty period with @Teflons and LARGE caps. It is the nature of the beast.
Duelund is probably the quickest to sound the way they are going to sound after a few hours. TRT @Teflons on the other
hand can drive a person out of a listening room for 200 hours or more. I love the sound, I hate the break-in. I use small
planars and ribbons, the higher efficiency makes for even longer periods. I haven't had to do it for 5+ years but facing
speakers and covering with shipping blankets use to be a thing in my shop. 2 weeks at 2-50 watts for teflons was very common.

I installed Audyn tinned coppers with WIMA 1% in a pair of RMX Elixirs that have TRTs builds as a first choice. 10 hours
they were a better match for Class D NC500 rev. Ds. For valve amps in the winter the TRTs sound better.

Vintage Mac pre or power valve amp. They came with a lot of crappy Bumblebees and wonderful black beauties. I replace the bumblebees with KY77 PIO if i can't find black beauties.

Personally I hear a bigger difference in resistors than any other component in a valve amp.

Coils; wire vs ribbon and then caps in a passive XO. The crappy wire inside a speaker is always a hot spot for me.
Pushon spades and tinned connection are a real favorite of mine, along with using hemorrhoid medication. BOTH I
can do without.

If I want the best transparency between amp and drivers I direct couple and go active. Fill the "active box" with 1-2% WIMAs and Vishay resistors.LOL Save your money. First Watt did. B4 or 5 is full of WIMA. I use both from time to time.
The only thing a B4 or 5 reveals is what is sent to the driver from the source and if you have a transparent amp or not.
My valve amps are not, my SS class Ds are. I like distortion in the winter. :cool:

Regards.
 
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