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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Illinois, USA
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Hi, I haven't found this question on the forum. I am figuring someone might of tried this, instead just going with it. I would first get opinions. I am running a multi amp set up and will only need a limited gain control for set up. I plan on having the access to the attenuator inside the case. I first of thought about the use of dip switches or secondly using jumpers such as on computers to select the gain. I would think this would be good but these switches and jumpers were not intended for the audio signal. Will the signal loose significant quality threw such switches? Has anybody done this in the past are their any good PCB designs already tried?
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burning the candle at both ends makes for a waxy mess. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
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The ESP P88 pre-amp uses dip switches to set the gain. Details are not shown on the P88 web site but are in the instructions for when you buy the PCB. There is a pic though..... have a look at figure 6.
http://sound.westhost.com/project88.htm |
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#3 |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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Most high quality DIP switches are good. I have never had any problem with a DIP switch in industrial environment. Jumpers are also rather good, especially those which are gold plated.
I use a type which has a small tab so you more easily can can pull them off.
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/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Sweden
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If you configure it as a shunt attenuator then I think it would work very well. Try switches closest to ground if you think it will be audible.
Pass Aleph P 1.7 uses DIP switches to configure gain AFAIK and then even in the signal path.
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UrSv Those who say it can't be done should not stop those who are doing it. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
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The P88 pre-amp I built I used gold plated jumpers instead of dip switches. Cheaper and better IMO than the dip switches I could get.
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Illinois, USA
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Thank you for all the input,
I feel confidant now that good dip switches or jumpers will work fine. Quote:
The attenuator will only have to control say the upper 1/3 of the volume. Just balancing the level this amp to another used at a different frequency. I figure a 8 or 10 place dip would be fine. I don't believe the ladder design would give me a benefit due to extra contact points. I think I am going with the series design with a resistor from the last switch (or jumper) to ground to achieve my final range and input impedance.
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burning the candle at both ends makes for a waxy mess. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Sweden
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Quote:
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UrSv Those who say it can't be done should not stop those who are doing it. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Illinois, USA
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UrSv
I Don't have anything against the shunt design, But with the multiple amps I feel I would want the input impedance to be stable, so an adjustment on the gain of one doesn't effect others. If will also allow a more stable environment for my preamp to operate. Thanks for the good word on DIP switches. Anything in particular to stay away from or look for when getting DIPs for audio use?
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burning the candle at both ends makes for a waxy mess. |
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