Hi,
I recently tried some of those russian paper types. You can get them from antony welsh. They are a good price and don't sound bad either, they're a good balance between detail and smoothness. Obviously there are others available, but I quite like these and they have become my cap of choice, second only to Jupiter Beeswax caps.
Thanks
Raja
I recently tried some of those russian paper types. You can get them from antony welsh. They are a good price and don't sound bad either, they're a good balance between detail and smoothness. Obviously there are others available, but I quite like these and they have become my cap of choice, second only to Jupiter Beeswax caps.
Thanks
Raja
The problem with good capacitors is they are not cheap. Also, with in certain types of capacitors like Polypropylene some suck.
One of my favorite manufactured of quality cap is Reliable Capacitor. the make high quality film caps Teflon, Polystyrene, film & foil Polypropylene. Also TRT's PP are great caps their DynamiCaps are great.
The low end Polypropylenes are made by SOLEN & AXON and others. It worth it to stay clear of these caps, unless you constrained by your budget
http://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf
One of my favorite manufactured of quality cap is Reliable Capacitor. the make high quality film caps Teflon, Polystyrene, film & foil Polypropylene. Also TRT's PP are great caps their DynamiCaps are great.
The low end Polypropylenes are made by SOLEN & AXON and others. It worth it to stay clear of these caps, unless you constrained by your budget
http://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf
paper/oil suggestion
Hi AudioGeek,
have you considered to use paper/oil capacitors ? Yes, i know, old-fashioned. But still it is a very good cap for that purpose.
You can go for newly made ones: Jensen, Audio Note.
Or grab some old military stuff. I really like the glass-sealed ones. Extremely stable ! And i does sound great.
I'll enclose some pictures of some West Caps (4,7 uF / 200 V). Remember: these items are not small (D: 1 inch ; L: 2 inch).
I've got 7 here; all measured so i can make nice pairs.
I tried the Russian ones. These are good items (K40- and K72 line) with a nice value/money ratio. Sound OK; tolerance is indeed +/- 10 % !
As Jewilson said: it's worth to avoid the low end stuff. Remember that these caps are really IN your music path. And if you go along the high end path it will be a matter of taste; not quality !
Hope this helps,
With regards,
Reinout
Hi AudioGeek,
have you considered to use paper/oil capacitors ? Yes, i know, old-fashioned. But still it is a very good cap for that purpose.
You can go for newly made ones: Jensen, Audio Note.
Or grab some old military stuff. I really like the glass-sealed ones. Extremely stable ! And i does sound great.
I'll enclose some pictures of some West Caps (4,7 uF / 200 V). Remember: these items are not small (D: 1 inch ; L: 2 inch).
I've got 7 here; all measured so i can make nice pairs.
I tried the Russian ones. These are good items (K40- and K72 line) with a nice value/money ratio. Sound OK; tolerance is indeed +/- 10 % !
As Jewilson said: it's worth to avoid the low end stuff. Remember that these caps are really IN your music path. And if you go along the high end path it will be a matter of taste; not quality !
Hope this helps,
With regards,
Reinout
Attachments
Talking about Russian caps - I guess most of us have got some - I just constructed a monster teflon output cap for my tube DAC. 16 of the .1 caps, 8 per side making two caps of .825uF All on a 220mm by 100mm piece of vero board. Laid the top 8 on the bottom 8 and joined them vertically down into the track of the board. Worth the effort - counds very clean and I really needed something like 1uF into my 20K stepped attenuator. Looks very industrial with copious dunker factor. Andy
hmm...
heres what it is for:
coupling between a mu stage with SS current source and a mosfet source follower output stage.
so.... a LITTLE bit of warmth would be good... a long with detail and more detail.
is this an oxymoron?
unless I use some old carbon resistors for warmth and a good coupling cap for detail.
so where can I get those russian caps?? 10uf is a must.
thanks everyone for the info.
heres what it is for:
coupling between a mu stage with SS current source and a mosfet source follower output stage.
so.... a LITTLE bit of warmth would be good... a long with detail and more detail.
is this an oxymoron?
unless I use some old carbon resistors for warmth and a good coupling cap for detail.
so where can I get those russian caps?? 10uf is a must.
thanks everyone for the info.
If you've got the room...you can't go wrong with these, whether for coupling or PSU.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=53299&item=3838073172&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=53299&item=3838073172&rd=1
Re: motor run for coupling????
a number of people swear by them, others don't - I've only used them in my PSU...not enough room in my signal chassis.
Go to the tube diy asylum and do a search on "motor run" ... you can read to your heart's content.
Worst case scenario: if you don't like them as a signal cap, you can use them in your PSU.
AudioGeek said:
a number of people swear by them, others don't - I've only used them in my PSU...not enough room in my signal chassis.
Go to the tube diy asylum and do a search on "motor run" ... you can read to your heart's content.
Worst case scenario: if you don't like them as a signal cap, you can use them in your PSU.
You can always ask the manufacturer if that's an option - the technical ratings are for thickness of film used. On the occasions I've done so it turns out roughly a ratio of 1.4 DC to 1 AC, and that's the generally accepted conversion. There are various stories of a 2 to 1 ratio working in some cases, but I wouldn't count on that without prior knowledge since it seems quite a bit above the generally accepted figure.
Hi all,
Have any of you tried the ones from http://www.justradios.com ?
His "orange drops" sound OK here
Have any of you tried the ones from http://www.justradios.com ?
His "orange drops" sound OK here
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