Sunsun22 said:
To answer the original question, yes, there is a difference and there might be practical reason to use those type of resistors.
But it's not as easy as swappinging all resistor with the other type and expecting big gains. For each specific part of a circuit, a specific type of resistor may be more beneficial than other type. Ideally, checking different res types in a circuit would be best, but this requires time and money, and with complex circuits it's very inconvenient.
I was playing in this way with my GC amp, but since only 4 resistors were used, it was relatively easy. I decided for different type of resistors in different parts of the circuit, as only then I was able to achieve proper (at least for me) tonal balance. So it was Caddock for feedback and input shunting, Riken for gain setting (-IN to ground) and Vishay for series input resistance.
Had I used all same resistors in all those positions, the effect would be much less satisfying (as I tied it too).
Percy told me he's changing his S102K stock over to the so-called naked Vishays (= Texas Components TX2352s). The last package of Vishays I received from Percy was a mix of encapsulated and unencapsulated S102Ks for which I was charged the same $11+ price per resistor.
Here is contact information for ordering TX2352s from Texas Components:
Here is contact information for ordering TX2352s from Texas Components:
The posts of Archaic Audio guy can be found by searching the Trading Post, but he bumped the price to $4 apiece - probably because Peter and I went on about what a good deal it was!!
Although he has every right to do this , I found it annoying and have no desire to order more from him. This is great news that there are probably better sounding alternatives at a similar price!
Alternate to Vishay-Caddock
I'm curious to know if anyone has experiance with Alpha Electronics metal foil resistors I understand they are made in Japan there web site is www.alpha-amer.com check them out
I'm curious to know if anyone has experiance with Alpha Electronics metal foil resistors I understand they are made in Japan there web site is www.alpha-amer.com check them out
Here are some interesting forum links regarding resistors. The last one deals with Alpha resistors.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/sear...d=694450&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/sear...d=694450&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending
Nonsense. I keep manganin wire on hand and often make my own custom low value shunts and non-inductively wound resistors. Still, even a non-inductively wound resistor won't have the HF performance of the bulk metal devices. Fortunately I can't hear the difference between resistor types, and suspect that if any difference exists, it has more to do with strays and tolerance, than the resistance material itself.
abzug said:
abzug said:
Hi,
Look up "Ayrton Perry" for non-inductive (or low-inductive) resistive winding info.
Having carried out a lot of resistor 'listening' trials, I didn't find the larger circular-bodied Vishay Bulk-Foils to be quite so good sonically as their other varieties like S102, VSRJ etc., which are in a less-substantial flat package.
As the best for me sonically are the so-called Naked Vishays, which are TX2352 from Texas Components, I can only guess that these very small sonic differences are related to the amount of epoxy packaging used, as the Naked Vishays don't have any such encapsulation at all. Otherwise, according to the makers, the resistive elements used in these Vishays are the same.
Regards,
No,
They have what looks to be a clear, possibly epoxy or similar type of varnish coating the entire device.
There is no added mass as with any usual plastic-encapsulated resistor like this, though, and this is the only apparent significant difference which I am guessing gives rise to the slightly-improved sonics.
Regards,
They have what looks to be a clear, possibly epoxy or similar type of varnish coating the entire device.
There is no added mass as with any usual plastic-encapsulated resistor like this, though, and this is the only apparent significant difference which I am guessing gives rise to the slightly-improved sonics.
Regards,
There are various ways to wind non-inductive resistors, some better than others. None of them will give the performance of a bulk metal foil resistor, though you have a greater choice of materials, if you believe materials affect the sound. IMO, that remains an interesting area of research.
The easiest way is to take the required length of resistance wire and fold it over in the middle- a bight, I believe. Fasten the fold to the form, keep the two leads close together, and wind. A flat form (mica was the old method, and I still use it sometimes) is good because it keeps the loop are small, thus the inductance small. The parallel wire also cancels out the inductance. Resistors wound this way are very good out to a few MHz.
You can also twist the wires a bit to keep them close. This helps the inductance, but increases the parallel capacitance even further, and probably increases the risk of insulation failure. It also looks bad, so I don't do it that way.
Another trick can be learned from the big ten turn pots. If you take one apart, you'll find the resistance wire has been wound on a piece of heavy copper wire. That is then wound around the body of the pot for the wiper to ride on. The coils are small, so the inductance is small, plus the copper wire reduces the inductance still further. This method is good to several hundred kHz or more. Interesting side track- look up tuning wands with brass and iron ends, and how they work.
Remember that these parts can be physically large, so stray capacitance to the chassis and other parts of the circuit has to be considered. IMO, that's a big factor with Teflon and polypropylene high end audio caps as well.
The easiest way is to take the required length of resistance wire and fold it over in the middle- a bight, I believe. Fasten the fold to the form, keep the two leads close together, and wind. A flat form (mica was the old method, and I still use it sometimes) is good because it keeps the loop are small, thus the inductance small. The parallel wire also cancels out the inductance. Resistors wound this way are very good out to a few MHz.
You can also twist the wires a bit to keep them close. This helps the inductance, but increases the parallel capacitance even further, and probably increases the risk of insulation failure. It also looks bad, so I don't do it that way.
Another trick can be learned from the big ten turn pots. If you take one apart, you'll find the resistance wire has been wound on a piece of heavy copper wire. That is then wound around the body of the pot for the wiper to ride on. The coils are small, so the inductance is small, plus the copper wire reduces the inductance still further. This method is good to several hundred kHz or more. Interesting side track- look up tuning wands with brass and iron ends, and how they work.
Remember that these parts can be physically large, so stray capacitance to the chassis and other parts of the circuit has to be considered. IMO, that's a big factor with Teflon and polypropylene high end audio caps as well.
Hi all,
I just wanted to let you know that Vishay is now going to release Z-Foil "naked chip resistors"
We're on the final stages of testing and the datasheet is just about ready.
It should be fully published and available within about 2 weeks.
If you have any general questions about the Vishay Bulk Metal Foil, feel free to ask.
I just wanted to let you know that Vishay is now going to release Z-Foil "naked chip resistors"
We're on the final stages of testing and the datasheet is just about ready.
It should be fully published and available within about 2 weeks.
If you have any general questions about the Vishay Bulk Metal Foil, feel free to ask.
Hi,
Now that is some interesting good news.
Having used the VSRJ, VSH and S102 series for very many years, and nothing else comes to close to them 'sonically' in my experience, I was pleased to try some TX2352s in a more-recent commercial design, and these were slightly better still than the encapsulated versions.
In fact I commented on this in the "Blowtorch preamplifier" thread only yesterday.
Thanks for letting us know.
Regards,
Now that is some interesting good news.
Having used the VSRJ, VSH and S102 series for very many years, and nothing else comes to close to them 'sonically' in my experience, I was pleased to try some TX2352s in a more-recent commercial design, and these were slightly better still than the encapsulated versions.
In fact I commented on this in the "Blowtorch preamplifier" thread only yesterday.
Thanks for letting us know.
Regards,
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