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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Germany
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Hi to everybody,
I have read a lot of info about normal LC mains filters and their problems. I think a better solution is to use a parallel filter across the live and neutral. What do you guys think about that? How can that be calculated? I have here one solution at this link: http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/mains_e.html Are there any other circuits out there? |
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#2 |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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I think you are unaware of WHAT you are going to remove. L's are required when you need more effective filtering than only C's.
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Germany
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Yeah but L´s in series with current can effect the devices connected after.
for instance dynamic loss by amplifiers. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Capital City Area
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Have you heard about Auricap tweak:
http://didnt.doit.wisc.edu/audio/CDP/cdp.html And here's mine: http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/auricap/ The idea is to install 2 Auricap capacitors (0.47 uF) between neutral and hot. Auricap has been the best cap for the job. X2 or caps like that won't do... I couldn't find any Auricaps in Finland so I had to settle with Arcotronics high quality (and high priced) Metallized Polypropylene capacitors. You will find more info at http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/bbs.html I don't believe that a well designed filter with chokes in it will decrease dynamics. As long as components are chosen carefully and the L kept low, there won't be any problems. I'm going to build a kick *** filter but there's still a lot of designing to do. Here's an unfinished scheme :
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#5 | |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
The filters you are thinking about are made for > 1MHz but special filters can go from 100 kHz, or even lower.
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#6 | |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Germany
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For audio equipment the filters should start cutting from 200 Hz-1000 Hz. That means the inductors should be bigger the shoe boxes. 1 mH is nothing you need something like 100mH at 10-20 Ampreres if you don´t want the filters to effect power amps.
For small devices you can use a normal filter but the problem is to design a filter for the whole system. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Capital City Area
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Don't take me as an experienced guru, I'm totally newbie with these devices. I have been designing this filter with a few finnish high end enthusiasts.
The whole idea is to keep the inductance very low. Here's a few PSpice simulation pics: Can anybody give some advice how to proceed with this filter? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Capital City Area
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By the way. This filter is designed for CDP and preamp. The values don't tell everything. I'm going to use iron powder toroids and other sophisticated components.
If the L is increased too much, the filter will limit current feed. Here's another very popular filter design that can be bought from www.diycable.com if DIY is not an option: http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/surge.htm http://mysite.verizon.net/vze22yzp/id11.html |
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#10 | |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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