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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: North Bay
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Hi this is Deano from Canada. This is my first post. I hope I am in the right catergory. ANyway here goes: Just picked up a stereo reciever for my bedroom. It's a B&O beomaster 2400 with remote, got it at a garage sale for a song. It's in mint mint condition. I have it hooked to my B&O CDX CD player. It sounds really good but a little strained at the top end. The speakers I am using are the B&O CX 100's. I am wondering if there's anyway I can mod this reciever a little bit (better resistors, capasitors, wiring, ect...) It would not be me that would be doing the modifacations, but an electronic engineer friend of mine. I just thought I could update it a bit if it's worth it. I hope so because it's a beautiful unit. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated ........................THANKS.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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IMO its not wise to assume you can significantly change the
sound of an amplifier without major re-engineering. Nevertheless if its old simply replacing all electrolytics with modern quality electrolytics will have significant effect. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Sreten is right, old electros are always worth swapping out, but if you are looking at major changes in the tonality of the system, I would look at the speakers as being more important than components in the amps.
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: North Bay
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THANKS FOR YOUR ADVICE GUY'S
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
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Hi! There were two versions of the 2400 with the primary difference being on the volume control board. If you see a single IC on the volume board you have a 16-step control. Three ICs indicate the much desired 128-step system. The 2400 can suffer from many issues over the years. In refurbs I install new output Darlingtons. The ST versions of the original TI units will offer much better response overall. This might just be due to aging transistors. The rear plastic heat shield will melt if the idle pots get bad. These need to be replaced with new units so that idle can be maintained properly. Other issues such as 15 volt supply ripple and tuning voltage ripple abound after many years. Email me for questions on this model. Don't want to bludgeon the Forum!
Anthony Garza Beomuse.com |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
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Just like Deano: picked up a cheap B&O 2400 from e-bay with some burned bulbs.
I am thinking to replace all the bulbs with white LED and change the R3 (33 Ohms) on PCB 5 to higher value to raise the voltage across the LED to about 5V. Does anyone tried this modification? Or should I buy some 12V, 50mA bulbs to replace the original ones? Any suggestions? |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fredericia, DK
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Quote:
There's some very bright ones out there, i put a couple of bright white in a Nad 705 i use as my computer amp, it works like a charm. Best regards Ebbe |
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