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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beograd
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I've worked with Hakko for six years,and have only replased the tip,nothing else.I highly recomend Hakko. |
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#32 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Can sombody comment on this Hakko 936 clone? http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307
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#33 |
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diyAudio Member
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These look like a great deal. I would like to know more about calibration of the tip temperature. But that's not critical if you aren't making super sensitive stuff. Its cheap enough that you could just dump it if something goes wrong. The Metcal tips are more expensive that this whole set.
-Demian
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Demian Martin Product Design Services |
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#34 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
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This is an interesting topic. I have a second Hakko 926 which I bought in Asia in 1987. The original owner bought it band new in 1984. This version was not introduced to US market at that moment. The face plate is plastic and not metal. Recently, the unit behaved on and off stage and it is caused by electrolytic capacitors. After replaced all of them, the unit works faultlessly again. It serves two owner since 1984 and now is 2009. What you are thinking the quality? Honestly today all products quality gone down even Mercedes Benz has many problems and body rust within 8 years. I rather choose second hand old products and refurbish by myself.
Unit I spent money on these 22 years 1. Upgrade to metal faceplate. (My friend melt the plastic face plate) 2. Heat coil cracked (I turn on the iron without put the tip on at teenager era) 3. cream housing fade, spayed white color 4. Electrolytic capacitors Total cost: 1. $10 canadian 2. $8 on e-bay 3. $4.5 spay can at Wal-mart 4. $2 all electrolytic capacitors I spent total $24.5 on this iron in 22 years I won't recommend the cone one since the heat coil quality can not be garranty. I will spend more money for a good quality product and use it forever. |
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#35 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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I use a 60w red Hakko from Fry's. It worked great to replace some bad capacitors on a motherboard. (My old 40w RadioShack would not reliably melt the solder on those high current connections.) For smaller connections, I use a dimmer to throttle it down to 20-30w.
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"Fully on MOSFET = closed switch, Fully off MOSFET = open switch, Half on MOSFET = poor imitation of Tiffany Yep." - also applies to IGBTs! |
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Texas where blues are king
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I'vre got a couple of hakkos and like them quite a bit.
My main Hakko doe s have a slight problem s from time to time and I don't know what is wrong with it. It is the white 936, it has problems at times heating up the meat! The black 936 hadn't developed this problems yet. Whitie might have a creacked ceremac element that doesn't sow it face all the time so who knows. Well on the otherhand and these are newer irsont ai'm talking about there were quite the bummer. One iron melted in half on the bench. My 3000 hi end solderation station is inikeyh as all get up and the solder gets jammed in the tube, etc. It is very maintenance intensive which makes it almost not worth it to use on a piaece of gear. King of like a cuisinarte thing, you can use all the blades preppering your food, but it take longer to prep, then hand slicking etc, then yoiu've still gove the final clean up the the thing also, which takes more time cleaining than just a knie and cutting board. |
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