Hello everyone!
In the country I'm living we don't really have any authorized Elna seller.
That's why i wanted to ask for help anyone who knows. How does look Elna Sillmic II look inside? (Obtained from sure source) I think that its possible to fake everything outside, probably not inside.
That's why i belive a verification from inside to be more sure.
I would be really glad if someone who saw inside of those could tell. Also because I actually mailed both Elna JP and US and they didn't ever answer my question 😕
I guess that might be useful for everyone having any doubts after purchasing some.
Also if someone has some "loose" not to be used any soon and is willing to open one, I'm willing to pay (paypal?)
Thanks!
Below is a link to the bunch of pics i made to ask Elna for authentication (inside and outside)
https://www.yogile.com/slm5z8ft?vsc=59251dfd#22m
In the country I'm living we don't really have any authorized Elna seller.
That's why i wanted to ask for help anyone who knows. How does look Elna Sillmic II look inside? (Obtained from sure source) I think that its possible to fake everything outside, probably not inside.
That's why i belive a verification from inside to be more sure.
I would be really glad if someone who saw inside of those could tell. Also because I actually mailed both Elna JP and US and they didn't ever answer my question 😕
I guess that might be useful for everyone having any doubts after purchasing some.
Also if someone has some "loose" not to be used any soon and is willing to open one, I'm willing to pay (paypal?)
Thanks!
Below is a link to the bunch of pics i made to ask Elna for authentication (inside and outside)
https://www.yogile.com/slm5z8ft?vsc=59251dfd#22m
I have a bunch of genuine SilmicII here and I can cut one open for you if someone else hasn't already responded in a few more days. Please instruct how you would like it cut - I have basic hand tools (hacksaws, files) but no fancy laser cutter, so the cut faces may be messy.
PS - why don't you just order from a reputable source like mouser (free postage on orders >$50US)? If you got them off ebay it's almost guaranteed they're fake.
PS - why don't you just order from a reputable source like mouser (free postage on orders >$50US)? If you got them off ebay it's almost guaranteed they're fake.
i have a stock of silmic and it is the same, they are not fake, especially the high quality construction, case, leads, etc.
Don't destroy anymore of the poor caps !
Don't destroy anymore of the poor caps !
Hi everybody, thanks for response.
@zaib4tsu
Thanks for your offer and will to help out!
I did not use any fancy kind of laser cutter too. I guess however is "comfy" for you it's just really fine with me. I used just a basic replacement blade like here: http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m8v-kisvQHqnE5Z_JBY30cA.jpg
to me it reminds of opening a can without build in opener.. (with a kitchen knife) Pls remember to keep fingers away from the cutting line, I would feel very bad to me if you got cut. Plus I think the easiest is close to the bottom, cut around and just take off the barrel from top - clean and easy. I woud also advise to wear gloves cause of the liquid inside. And if you finally decide against doing it I wont blame you.
If it's about buying from Mouser is def right. Tho what i got from there before is all gone and then i didn't think of this situation from the future. Now i rather needed less than 50usd parts so either expensive shipping or adding stuff i don't really need. And last thing is that i would just like to have some trusted place if i need some small quanities and fast. I thought that since I can email Elna ( I saw people on forums doing this and always getting answer) I thought it should be zero problem. But we already know that the world is not equal so I got no answer. And for last they are not from Ebay, just a small local shop specialized in audio parts.
@ gabdx
I promise to not destroy anymore from that stock and I also think they look rather good from outside. But i saw very good fakes (mostly clothing) that i would'n't know if i wasn't told upfront. That's why I'm thinking it is really hard to know from outside sometimes.
@JordiMB
Well... I dont plan to open all. I did a few cause i know for example that with often faked 18650 cells im using a lot, often fakes are send between (are mixed) real ones. Which might get "hot" if you pair them without measuring in high amperage application. And tho I can many precise things I dont think I'm able to ever reconstruct them. I just sacrificed three different sizes so me and other people on this forum can know how should/ should not a real one look inside.
@zaib4tsu
Thanks for your offer and will to help out!
I did not use any fancy kind of laser cutter too. I guess however is "comfy" for you it's just really fine with me. I used just a basic replacement blade like here: http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m8v-kisvQHqnE5Z_JBY30cA.jpg
to me it reminds of opening a can without build in opener.. (with a kitchen knife) Pls remember to keep fingers away from the cutting line, I would feel very bad to me if you got cut. Plus I think the easiest is close to the bottom, cut around and just take off the barrel from top - clean and easy. I woud also advise to wear gloves cause of the liquid inside. And if you finally decide against doing it I wont blame you.
If it's about buying from Mouser is def right. Tho what i got from there before is all gone and then i didn't think of this situation from the future. Now i rather needed less than 50usd parts so either expensive shipping or adding stuff i don't really need. And last thing is that i would just like to have some trusted place if i need some small quanities and fast. I thought that since I can email Elna ( I saw people on forums doing this and always getting answer) I thought it should be zero problem. But we already know that the world is not equal so I got no answer. And for last they are not from Ebay, just a small local shop specialized in audio parts.
@ gabdx
I promise to not destroy anymore from that stock and I also think they look rather good from outside. But i saw very good fakes (mostly clothing) that i would'n't know if i wasn't told upfront. That's why I'm thinking it is really hard to know from outside sometimes.
@JordiMB
Well... I dont plan to open all. I did a few cause i know for example that with often faked 18650 cells im using a lot, often fakes are send between (are mixed) real ones. Which might get "hot" if you pair them without measuring in high amperage application. And tho I can many precise things I dont think I'm able to ever reconstruct them. I just sacrificed three different sizes so me and other people on this forum can know how should/ should not a real one look inside.
I just saw your pictures, they look real to me. Seems your local shop is honest. I would have only been worried if they were from ebay/alix.
I can still cut one if you like, but it sounds like you have a few votes for yours being genuine now anyway, probably no need to worry.
I can still cut one if you like, but it sounds like you have a few votes for yours being genuine now anyway, probably no need to worry.
@gabdx
Sure! If you have photos? No other silmics photos yet, but mundorf is fine too! 🙂 Did they sound so 'good', or you needed to check a batch? Or wanted just to see how is a 100usd cap built?
@wayne
Thanks for reply, do you mean from inside or outside?
Sure! If you have photos? No other silmics photos yet, but mundorf is fine too! 🙂 Did they sound so 'good', or you needed to check a batch? Or wanted just to see how is a 100usd cap built?
@wayne
Thanks for reply, do you mean from inside or outside?
@zaib4tsu
Probably no need to worry. To me they look good too. Tho if you would do that I think it might be helpful for someone in the future. If not that's also really okay with me as I already told you before
Probably no need to worry. To me they look good too. Tho if you would do that I think it might be helpful for someone in the future. If not that's also really okay with me as I already told you before
I might let them live for now if they don't need to die yet. 🙂
Some measurements on the SilmicII comparing to Muse KZ if you're interested (post 13 and 14 by oilmaster):
A New Capacitor...Unknown outside Japan?? | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Some measurements on the SilmicII comparing to Muse KZ if you're interested (post 13 and 14 by oilmaster):
A New Capacitor...Unknown outside Japan?? | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Hi,
These caps are totally different !
If you open a Silmic II you will see a sort of medical cotton (very thin fiber).
More than Silmic II I'll look at Panasonic FC caps : excellent caps; FM & FR as well as second choice. Polymer often are good for digital boards.
Nichicons KZ are good, KG as well. ES for the local decoupling or signal coupling is a good choice !
Of course it's a shortcut, there is no universal cap which is doing the job everywhere. A lot of good choice, all is about the circuit ! So just swapping a cap for a said to be better as the Silmic II is a lotery, most of the time the result will be different but not better !
Tweakings caps asks a lot of time and reference at hands
.... 🙂
I won't mess up with SII...
These caps are totally different !
If you open a Silmic II you will see a sort of medical cotton (very thin fiber).
More than Silmic II I'll look at Panasonic FC caps : excellent caps; FM & FR as well as second choice. Polymer often are good for digital boards.
Nichicons KZ are good, KG as well. ES for the local decoupling or signal coupling is a good choice !
Of course it's a shortcut, there is no universal cap which is doing the job everywhere. A lot of good choice, all is about the circuit ! So just swapping a cap for a said to be better as the Silmic II is a lotery, most of the time the result will be different but not better !
Tweakings caps asks a lot of time and reference at hands
.... 🙂I won't mess up with SII...
@Eldam
You mean that my caps look totally different inside than silmic II?
@zaib4tsu
I guess it means that we are having some contra voice to the "authenticity" of my elnas...
You mean that my caps look totally different inside than silmic II?
@zaib4tsu
I guess it means that we are having some contra voice to the "authenticity" of my elnas...
No, just meant : Nichicon KZ an Elna Simic II gives a different sounding result far from each others !
As you guess I'm not a fan of SII... not for decoupling !
As you guess I'm not a fan of SII... not for decoupling !
I think he's referring to the comparison measurements I posted, not your pictures.
We'll wait for Eldam to reply though.
Edit - beaten to it. 🙂
We'll wait for Eldam to reply though.
Edit - beaten to it. 🙂
Last edited:
Those are good inside and out they are the older Silmic 2 newer ones are darker and I don't like them as much reliability wise. Panasonics are better for decoupling.
There were the Simic non II as well (just marked Silmic) with mat Brown less shyny than the first plastic case of SII : those Silmic non II were good in the mean time not very transparent ; Pioneer and Sony oftened keep them at dc coupling cap at the outputt of aop stages ; I used to match them in inversed polarity to add some clearness with great result ! I find also this reversed polarity in serie gives good results... We were using this tip 20 years ago iirc !
Yeah, okay. i'd hear they influence sound in different ways. I used before both KZ and FC in other projects, I liked both. Found FC bit more "roundish", KZ more flat? Neutral. Somehow i didn't like bypassed KZ. I don't know yet if I agree with the rest being better cause that is supposed to be my try of sil. Many people seem to love it cause of some reason, on the other side i feel like I like different sound than most people soo.. I'm curious of the results. I guess it depends where and so on.. All the endless caps story 🙂
ok, thanks wayne! I thought before that they are probably older. That actually was the discussion with my friend, he has some newer ones (looking slightly different) so i wasn't sure about mine cause i didn't really used them before.
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