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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Bristol
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Looking at several different types of components (switches, relays, fuse holders, cable, etc.); I wondered what the current ratings were. Most were rated at 230v AC. if the components are used at a low voltage, and with DC instead of AC, what effect would this have on the current rating?
Say I have a fuse holder, and is rated at x amps at y volts, AC. what would the rating be at z volts DC? How can I work this out? For cable, I can look at the thickness, but without actually testing them to destruction, how can I find the current rating of other components? I have some fuse holders rated at 13A 230V AC, and I have some 15A fuses. Used at say, 12v DC, will the fuse holder melt before or after the fuse? Any help/advice appreciated.
__________________
If it aint broke, don't fix it. If it is broke, fix it. If you can't fix it, take it apart and see how it "worked". |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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for current interruption devices, generally 250VAC devices
are rated at 160VDC, the difference due to the zero voltage / current crossing nature of AC voltage/current. For thermal ratings e.g. cables voltage is relatively immaterial, current counts, AC RMS or DC makes no difference. Fuse holders again voltage is usually immaterial, but you obviously cannot use them for 3kV. |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Bristol
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Quote:
__________________
If it aint broke, don't fix it. If it is broke, fix it. If you can't fix it, take it apart and see how it "worked". |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: pittsboro, NC
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The voltage rating is for the voltage it is guaranted to not Arc-Over (has to do with the spacing between parts).
The current flowing through a part generates heat, so the current rating is the maximum current that the part can handle without getting to hot (above a specified limit, such as to meet a UL/CSA/CE rating). So this means that curent rating is the max for any voltage, doesn't matter except there is a difference between DC and AC current ratings. Note that switches and relays are spec'd for resistive or inductive loads as these behave differently. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Bristol
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Quote:
__________________
If it aint broke, don't fix it. If it is broke, fix it. If you can't fix it, take it apart and see how it "worked". |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: pittsboro, NC
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20 Amps. The voltage doesn't matter. 20 Amps flowing through the fuse holder will cause it to heat up some. It will probally take 30 Amps for a while, but run to much Amps through and it will melt.
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Bristol
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Quote:
__________________
If it aint broke, don't fix it. If it is broke, fix it. If you can't fix it, take it apart and see how it "worked". |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: pittsboro, NC
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It should not matter in the case of that fuseholder.
BUT.......... if it has printed on it 20 Amps AC, I would derate it for DC current. (some relays will have an AC amps and a DC amps rating on them) (I looked at two Fuse web sites but it seems that they are reducing the ammount of information they carry thesedays) Are you going to be running close to 20 Amps? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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A fuse holder, unlike a switch or relay does not need derating
for DC voltages as opposed to AC voltages, as arc over is not an issue. (Except at 3kV.) |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Bristol
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Quote:
most websites seem to have less and less information on them, unless you pay. not this one though no, probably 15A maximum. (worst case) the voltage will be between 12v and 40v DC. i wasnt looking at that particular fuse holder, it was just an example.
__________________
If it aint broke, don't fix it. If it is broke, fix it. If you can't fix it, take it apart and see how it "worked". |
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