Hi guys,
I recently picked up a pair of active speakers from my googling says 1995'ish. Nothing fancy but they sound quite good I must say. The looks of them is horrible so they are in a desperate need of a remake.
I tend to keep them the way they are internally but when I opened one up (the one with the amp in) I saw this:
They work but I would guess it's no ideal...
Buying a new chip of the tda2040 would that make them sound different, or is there a way to safe buy a real chip? Would 20 years make any other components in need of change?
There is some dust in the volume pot as well so that's gonna change...
Thx guys ��
I recently picked up a pair of active speakers from my googling says 1995'ish. Nothing fancy but they sound quite good I must say. The looks of them is horrible so they are in a desperate need of a remake.
I tend to keep them the way they are internally but when I opened one up (the one with the amp in) I saw this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
They work but I would guess it's no ideal...
Buying a new chip of the tda2040 would that make them sound different, or is there a way to safe buy a real chip? Would 20 years make any other components in need of change?
There is some dust in the volume pot as well so that's gonna change...
Thx guys ��
It's working as it is now, but if I'm going to redesign them I'll just change this component as well... So ur saying I'm quite safe to just buy one from ebay then?
New TDA2030/40 whatever will get it going again. Just make sure the heatsink compound is working properly. They are not expensive.
Ah, I see!
So why would they use the 2040? Ohms?
So why would they use the 2040? Ohms?
It is a very simple and effective amplifier. It won't work with a hole in one IC though.
They improved them steadily along the years of production, starting with TDA2006 (I still have a couple in some old parts box) through tda2040 to 2050 to almost unseen 2052; along the way they kept basic circuit and pinout, so *if* you get a couple TDA2050, fine, if not 2030 should work, it all depends on power supply voltage.
Probably 2040 was king of the hill way back then, then it dissapeared from radar screens.
I just don't trust EBay on them, try instead any old established Australian parts house.
EDIT:
Probably 2040 was king of the hill way back then, then it dissapeared from radar screens.
I just don't trust EBay on them, try instead any old established Australian parts house.
EDIT:
you mean TDA2004, bridged output meant for 12V car battery, basically 2 x TDA2003 in a sigle case; TDA2040 is meant for around 32V split supply.A TDA2040 is for car radio use
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Awesome, thank you! Always good to understand a bit of history of them
There was quite a few of them on ebay (2050 and 2052) so I don't think there is any problem getting them. The THD etc, with the new ones is that much better? Worth going for the upgrade, because I'm probably gonna need to change all 4.
About the power supply, the transformers are large so I'm sure the output is quite sufficient. The 2040 is around 19-22w and the 2052 is ~60w so the transformer would be the item that cannot keep up, right? Can you meassure a transformer somehow to see if it's any good?
There are two in there, I'll post an image in a sec from my phone. (new psot)
There was quite a few of them on ebay (2050 and 2052) so I don't think there is any problem getting them. The THD etc, with the new ones is that much better? Worth going for the upgrade, because I'm probably gonna need to change all 4.
About the power supply, the transformers are large so I'm sure the output is quite sufficient. The 2040 is around 19-22w and the 2052 is ~60w so the transformer would be the item that cannot keep up, right? Can you meassure a transformer somehow to see if it's any good?
There are two in there, I'll post an image in a sec from my phone. (new psot)
They improved them steadily along the years of production, starting with TDA2006 (I still have a couple in some old parts box) through tda2040 to 2050 to almost unseen 2052; along the way they kept basic circuit and pinout, so *if* you get a couple TDA2050, fine, if not 2030 should work, it all depends on power supply voltage.
Probably 2040 was king of the hill way back then, then it dissapeared from radar screens.
I just don't trust EBay on them, try instead any old established Australian parts house.
EDIT:
you mean TDA2004, bridged output meant for 12V car battery, basically 2 x TDA2003 in a sigle case; TDA2040 is meant for around 32V split supply.
I'd be tempted to redesign for and use a currently made chipamp, bought new through an authorized distributor.Careful, lots of something is being sold as TDA2040 on ebay, but are they fakes or not is the real question. I would never buy them there, but that is just me.
Yeah, I would guess there are some fakes, but many of them is shipped from the US, maybe that's the way to go. I mean, if a reputable shop in the states shipped it, they should be quite confident that it is the real thing...?
I'll try to see if there is any "reputable ebay dealers out there hah!
I'll try to see if there is any "reputable ebay dealers out there hah!
Careful, lots of something is being sold as TDA2040 on ebay, but are they fakes or not is the real question. I would never buy them there, but that is just me.
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