I'm going to be rebuilding these crossovers soon. There's a lot of info out there about these speakers, but I'm curious about the brand of caps to use. I've seen a lot of talk about using Vishay caps... so this will be my choice unless convinced otherwise. The other question is what type. Lots of people say stay away from electrolytics. What's the cap type of choice for a crossover such as this?
Thanks.
Thanks.
There is no point of leaving the same layout and get expensive parts. Either buy some cheap pp caps: Solen, Audyn, dayton( I am not saying they are bad, or save money for a crossover rebuild. Maybe you can find someone locally to measure and model a new x-over for them. There are just things ppl did know/use that time.
Yamaha ns1000 rebuild
I have replaced the caps on 2 pairs of these and on both occasions the caps I removed were reading higher than their marked values eg the 3.5uf was 3.94 and the 6 in parallel averaged 3.84uf. I got rid of the large 47ufs and replaced with russian paper in oil on the first rebuild, on this I'm going to use polypropylene film caps throughout. If, after listening to them I feel that the paper in oil are a better match I will change to them.
I have always replaced the components with as near as bang on tolerance replacements and matched each speaker as closely as possible.
In both cases I have omitted the pots because I did not need use them based on my listening room and other equipment. I can always re connect them if I ever need them in future. Also on both cases I have replaced all the internal copper cables which were badly oxidised inside.
I have split the crossovers and made them bi wirable with the bass unit getting one pair of terminals and the other two units sharing the other terminals. I think I'd struggle tri wiring due to the space on the crossover mounting board, but feel that splitting the crossover at least to bi wiring has made an improvement to the sound.
One observation is that of the 2 pairs I've owned one pair was hideously bright whilst one pair sounded fairly neutral this was before any work was done on either and using the same ancillaries. Both were second hand. The hideously bright pair completely calmed down after cap replacement and internal cable replacement. Make of that as you will.
Hope my observations helped.
I have replaced the caps on 2 pairs of these and on both occasions the caps I removed were reading higher than their marked values eg the 3.5uf was 3.94 and the 6 in parallel averaged 3.84uf. I got rid of the large 47ufs and replaced with russian paper in oil on the first rebuild, on this I'm going to use polypropylene film caps throughout. If, after listening to them I feel that the paper in oil are a better match I will change to them.
I have always replaced the components with as near as bang on tolerance replacements and matched each speaker as closely as possible.
In both cases I have omitted the pots because I did not need use them based on my listening room and other equipment. I can always re connect them if I ever need them in future. Also on both cases I have replaced all the internal copper cables which were badly oxidised inside.
I have split the crossovers and made them bi wirable with the bass unit getting one pair of terminals and the other two units sharing the other terminals. I think I'd struggle tri wiring due to the space on the crossover mounting board, but feel that splitting the crossover at least to bi wiring has made an improvement to the sound.
One observation is that of the 2 pairs I've owned one pair was hideously bright whilst one pair sounded fairly neutral this was before any work was done on either and using the same ancillaries. Both were second hand. The hideously bright pair completely calmed down after cap replacement and internal cable replacement. Make of that as you will.
Hope my observations helped.
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