Best suited drivers for old Danish voigt horn design - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Parts

Parts Where to get, and how to make the best bits. PCB's, caps, transformers, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10th May 2014, 03:35 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Default Best suited drivers for old Danish voigt horn design

Hey everyone,

We are constructing a festival speaker set to bring to Roskilde Festival 2014.
We are extreme novices, but after a whole day of research, this is our creative, slightly unconventional, design.

It include 2 TQWTs, based off of Dennis Stensgaard's variation of the Minihorn from the Danish magazine, High Fidelity, some time in the 1970's.

This it the original 1970's design:
Click the image to open in full size.

This is Stensgaard's eventual remake: (He moves the driver to the end, enabling him to lay the speaker down, rather than having it stand up, and avoiding the bass to disappear upwards)
Click the image to open in full size.

We want, first of all, to know which drivers to use for this.
So far, we have been recommend to use 6.5"s with a QTS > 3

The idea is that the bass will be amplified by the organ structure, and so we wouldn't need low frequency sub woofers.

Do we need tweeter's for this? If so, which?

Our idea is to put the on the ground at angle, with the tweeters in between:
TQWT.png
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th May 2014, 04:37 AM   #2
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
Voigt pipes like the one pictured typically have a lot of ripple. They can be much improved by mass-loading them.

You really should choose the driver 1st and then design the box aeound the driver.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th May 2014, 04:50 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
picowallspeaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
That is a simplified and schematic way of viewing the thing. Same thing is the ( so-called) Daline, which is a TL (?).
It's like a rendering to 2D from 3D loosing a dimension
Particularly I refer to the compression chamber, which I have not seen in Voigt design. The Metronome is, right Dave ?
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th May 2014, 04:53 AM   #4
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by picowallspeaker View Post
That is a simplified and schematic way of viewing the thing. Same thing is the ( so-called) Daline, which is a TL (?).
It's like a rendering to 2D from 3D loosing a dimension
Particularly I refer to the compression chamber, which I have not seen in Voigt design. The Metronome is, right Dave ?
More like a BIB, but with a bulge to accomodate the driver (and an extra fold).

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th May 2014, 05:05 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
picowallspeaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ipsenaudio View Post

Our idea is to put the on the ground at angle, with the tweeters in between:
Attachment 417793
Oh I hadn't seen that
So it's not a (so-called) hi-fi thing

I guess you should be looking at some 8 or 10 inches driver.
Its power ( electrical) and acoustic output ( acoustic power :think that 97 % gets a radical transformation into heat=loose ) should be determined about with some gross calculation, including volume of the hall (if indoors) and volume to be played
Or just choose the conventional display of power scaling and starting from 50 and arriving at 500 (800) Watt RMS ( continuum use ! ).

You would not even need a tweeter if you choose from the wideband series, which often employ a (so-called) whizzer cone. I think wideband drivers with a whizzer are the most used for amplifying an electric organ
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th May 2014, 09:45 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by picowallspeaker View Post
Its power ( electrical) and acoustic output ( acoustic power :think that 97 % gets a radical transformation into heat=loose ) should be determined about with some gross calculation
How would one go about doing these calculations? The speakers will be outdoors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by picowallspeaker View Post
Or just choose the conventional display of power scaling and starting from 50 and arriving at 500 (800) Watt RMS ( continuum use ! ).
I don't quite understand. Buy power scaling, are you refering to the London Power Preamp Kits, saying I need to buy a preamp, or an amplifier with this power scaling built in? And what do you mean buy starting at 50 and arriving at 500 Watts RMS? I know what RMS means, but I still don't really understand.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th May 2014, 05:15 AM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
picowallspeaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Oh sorry! It wasn't very clear to me either
I was referring at the range offered by the variety of production

You may start from the 50 number that is a standard at home, just surpassed
by the 100/150 powerful model. So 3 digits power figures and more...

Or you might look at what others would employ for this typical usage.
Many would simply refeer to the bargain budget 10"+tweeter ( horn) possibly already amplified - And you just take the black box without knowing what's inside, being it a pretentious 1600 W Peak

So, many choices about the drivers.
And amplifiers, of course
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th May 2014, 07:59 AM   #8
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
Hi,

One thing for sure is you don't want a driver of Qts > 3, that will be
a nightmare, more like > 0.3, high efficiency, descent excursion,
low Vas and consequently not particularly low Fs.

Stuff the driver compartment. Something like :
Dayton Audio PA165-8 6" PA Driver Speaker | 295-015
FaitalPRO 6FE100 6" Professional Woofer 8 Ohm | 294-1150
B&C 6PS38 6.5" Professional Woofer 8 Ohm | 294-5906

As ever the specs of the most expensive look the most promising.

rgds, sreten.
__________________
There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann
When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th May 2014, 10:04 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Thanks, that's just what I needed!
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Voigt Corner Horn contemporary build based on original design and materials devilsindetails Full Range 27 15th April 2014 02:55 PM
These drivers suited to MJK style 'Fast' - esque 2way? mondogenerator Full Range 21 10th August 2011 11:55 AM
Danish Audio Design or? Drsah Digital Line Level 7 10th January 2011 08:18 PM
Looking for a horn design for my drivers. OzMikeH Full Range 10 27th January 2009 11:29 PM
Horn or BVR design help for 3" TB or Peerless drivers BoilermakerFan Full Range 15 21st January 2008 07:54 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:28 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2