Trying to build an o2 sensor simulator but car forums are a bad place to ask . . . - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 20th June 2013, 10:13 PM   #11
Ron E is offline Ron E  United States
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Seems to me the only reason to do this is to turn off the "Service Engine" light so you can sell the car to an unsuspecting buyer, or to try to pass an inspection on a car with a modified emissions system. In either case, helping you would seem to be immoral, or possibly even illegal.
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Old 25th June 2013, 01:10 AM   #12
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Seems to me the only reason to do this is to turn off the "Service Engine" light so you can sell the car to an unsuspecting buyer, or to try to pass an inspection on a car with a modified emissions system. In either case, helping you would seem to be immoral, or possibly even illegal.
Or I could sell it to a suspecting or informed buyer? That's not an option? But I don't want to sell it, if I can get it inspected.

I'm not sure what's illegal or immoral
I could pay a company to delete the cat codes for me.
Or buy a computer with the codes deleted.

Is farting in an elevator illegal or immoral?
I don't really think about it. I'm sure some people would say "yes".
I don't care and even if I did I wouldn't share my opinion here, since "political" opinions are not allowed here.

Also I find it ironic that your signature mentions "universal debt" and "planned obsolescence". Since you quoted Aldous Huxley I assume you are not a proponent of either. Yet, it could be argued (on a different forum ) that the reason for state car inspections is less about emissions and safety (cats fall under "safety" in NH and vehicle codes under "emissions", go figure) and more about growing "universal debt" and even more about "planned obsolescence".
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Old 25th June 2013, 01:56 AM   #13
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In states where emission tests are required they analyze the exhaust gas composition whether there's a lit check engine indicator. Fudging your sensor feedback wont get anything passed unless your car is exempt due to age or other reasons. The stcker comes after a passed test.

Most people who modify mormal O2 sensor function do it to test their ECU function/ programming, and in usual case Improve performance, sometimes even emissions!

If you've worked as an inspection mechanic you should be experienced enough to know your best bet is proper repairs.

Last edited by Andrew Eckhardt; 25th June 2013 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 25th June 2013, 02:10 AM   #14
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It's been decades since cars became fitted with cat systems and a replacement converter is hardly any more expensive than any other direct-fit section of exhaust, and the morons who "test pipe" converters for more power are pretty rare, mostly because they've found out by now it really don't do squat. More often, something of the engine fails causing a gross over rich condition causing the converters to melt down or otherwise plug which renders the car seriously inefficient to inoperable. If that's what's going on you'd be better off finding out and fixing it anyway.
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Old 26th June 2013, 02:15 AM   #15
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In states where emission tests are required they analyze the exhaust gas composition whether there's a lit check engine indicator. Fudging your sensor feedback wont get anything passed unless your car is exempt due to age or other reasons. The stcker comes after a passed test.
They just look for codes here. No tail pipe test. That should be easy to pass even without the middle cat/resonator or whatever it is. It has cat-like material in it but there is a pre-cat in front of it and the o2 sensor is actually in front of it, I'm not sure why. The rear o2 sensor should be behind the cat, I think.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Eckhardt View Post
Most people who modify mormal O2 sensor function do it to test their ECU function/ programming, and in usual case Improve performance, sometimes even emissions!
Yeah, I read a little about the emissions improvements.


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Originally Posted by Andrew Eckhardt View Post
If you've worked as an inspection mechanic you should be experienced enough to know your best bet is proper repairs.
I wasn't that kind of car inspector.
This was suppose to be an electronics thread.
You're going to get me banished
And I don't know that
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Old 8th July 2013, 01:09 AM   #16
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I built three circuits.
None of them oscillate from 0-0.9 volts.
I don't know if it's my DMM or what.
All use different parts except for the LEDs are the same.
But they light up a little, so I think they should be good, but I'm not sure.
Would they have anything to do with oscillation anyway?
I've tried many different NE555's, all do the same thing.
Sometimes they kind of look like they are oscillating for a little while on my DMM, but all stop.

They stay steady at ~.75 volts with the car off and ~.9 with the car on.
Before I added the ground wire from the gray o2 sensor wire to the the battery I measured 8.5-9.8 mA with the car off and on respectively.
But then after I added the wire it's 10-11.5 mA respectively.
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Old 8th July 2013, 02:01 AM   #17
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Hi. The o2 sensor after the catalytic converter is checking to see if the cat is doing it's job. IMHO just feeding a random 0 to 0.9 volt signal in it's place will likely just set another fault code, "sensor a-b correlation error", or similar. If it were my car I'd just replace the cats and sensors. Most of my workdays are spent diagnosing and repairing EFI systems and I don't think you will "trick" the system so easily. Best regards, Peter.
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Old 8th July 2013, 02:54 AM   #18
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Hi,
If you are using the schematic on thread #6 just jump R4 and connect the out wire between the R3 and D1. That will give you an output of .9 when the two led D1 and D2 turn on.
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Old 9th July 2013, 05:58 PM   #19
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I get a steady output of ~.75 volts at ~8 mA with an input of 12 VDC, but no oscillation. I can't figure out why.

This is the third on I've build. Only the LED's are the same and they light on slightly. All the circuits I've built, don't oscillate.
I've checked this thing so many times it's ridiculous. I have the NE555P and NE555N variants. I tried several of both. If looking at the top (pins down) with the notch facing up "1" is to the left of the notch and "8" to the right, correct? I've seen the pins diagrams, they are from the top of the chip I've almost 100% sure.
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Old 9th July 2013, 10:07 PM   #20
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Yes, the pin one it is the one to the left with the notch up. Can you draw and post the circuit with the components values that you are using in your board? It is possible that the oscillation it is too high and that it is why the LED's are slightly on.
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